Bike won't start

[CB4ME_imp]

I was out for a ride today and stopped to take a picture. I got back on the bike which was in 1st gear. I turned the key on and the gauges and fuel pump came up. The side stand was up and clutch was fully engaged. I hit the starter switch..... and nothing.

Bike will start in neutral, side stand up or down. Lowering the side stand while in gear will kill the engine. But it will not start with the bike in gear.

I highly doubt the "key and slot" on the side stand kill switch is out of alignment. What else can I try? And what is the procedure for resetting the ECU? Disconnect battery for 30 minutes?

 

[Lord Popgun]

I haven't tried on my bike, but there is a bold note in the Electric Starter troubleshooting section that says: "The starter motor turns when the transmission is in neutral, but does not turn with the transmission in any position except neutral, with the sidestand up and clutch lever pulled in." For that it says check the clutch switch operation and the sidestand switch.

PM me if you would like me to scan the circuit (not the wiring diagram) and email it to you.

 

[kmoney_imp]

+1 on checking the clutch switch. It's an easy switch on which to short the connectors to test.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

Thanks guys - I'll check both tomorrow. Got's to take the wife to dinner to make up for a 3 hour ride and neglected chores.

 

[the Ferret]

This may be too obvious but the two blades on the clutch interlock switch below the switch assy must be making good contact. If you remember in 13 some of the new bikes came with those barely connected and I believe some of us used black elect tape to make sure they were secure.

 

[Randy B]

This may be too obvious but the two blades on the clutch interlock switch below the switch assy must be making good contact. If you remember in 13 some of the new bikes came with those barely connected and I believe some of us used black elect tape to make sure they were secure.

This is what I was thinking. I have never experienced this personally, but I have seen many guys talk about having the issue.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

Thanks again guys. I found the section on the clutch switch in the service manual and will tackle it in the morning. Prior to the ride I installed a set of hand guards and may have put some pressure in the wrong place. Hope it's an easy fix.

The next time I forget to down shift and stall the bike in 3rd gear at a busy intersection, it will be nice to restart the bike without having to find neutral with a stalled engine

 

[Lord Popgun]

I sent you the scans, but if you have the service manual, you have it anyway. Good luck finding it! I'm think its easy.

We have a saying at work. If it worked and you did something and now it doesn't work, it is probably whatever you just did. Look there.

Let us know what you find.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

Thanks Popgun.

I discovered my ohm meter crapped out so I pulled the clutch switch and verified the 2 blades make good contact. You can actually hear it when you operate the clutch or push the tab. For schitz and giggles, I connected the 2 leads going out of the switch with a copper wire thinking that might simulate a closed circuit. (NOT what the manual says to do).

So after I put out the electrical fire and the smoke cleared....kidding. But I'll check fuses if needed.

I'm going to need a new meter to proceed any further. Manual says check continuity on both clutch and side stand switches.

On to the British GP.....

 

[Lord Popgun]

CB, the voltmeter part of your meter works just with whatever voltage you are reading. BUT, the ohm meter function uses a battery. You may just need a new battery. Check that first.

Edit to add: Yeah I know. If its a digital meter it uses a battery for other stuff too.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

My meter was so old that the battery corroded the circuit board. In other words toast. Bike still starts in neutral so I'll take it to Home Depot for a new one. Hope it's just a bad clutch switch.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Sorry to hear that CB. I've had it happen too.

 

[the Ferret]

My meter was so old that the battery corroded the circuit board. In other words toast. Bike still starts in neutral so I'll take it to Home Depot for a new one. Hope it's just a bad clutch switch.

Hope it's just a bad connection

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Let us know how you go. Good luck.

Cheers

 

[CB4ME_imp]

Fixed! The plug to neutral switch wasn't fully plugged in.

 

[the Ferret]

where? up under L/H switch assy or somewhere else?

 

[CB4ME_imp]

The neutral switch is under the transmission on the right side of the bike. The service manual has a drawing showing all the switches and pointed to the left side of the bike just aft of the sprocket cover but it ain't there. But the drawing made me take off the sprocket cover to check. I quickly realized it had to be on the other side. I push the connector up, heard a click as it snapped back into place, and instantly knew that was the issue. (Clutch switch passed continuity test).

 

[Randy B]

Great!!

 

[the Ferret]

Hmmm I don't remember seeing a switch on the right side. Exposed or behind a case?

 

[Lord Popgun]

In the '13 manual it shows it on the right side bottom. On page 1-27.

The EOP switch is close to it (engine oil pressure)