Battery Question

GoldOxide_imp said:
KiowaEagle_imp said:
The A-man_imp said:
I'm on the "just get a new one bandwagon". I had a similar quandry just before last summer's "Three Amigos Ride Again" trip. I pulled the weak battery, went to Advance Auto Parts, and for about $130-$150, I bought myself peace of mind that will last for several more years. Plus, they offered Die Hard Batteries, which I've always had a great deal of confidence in.

BTW - I previously tried an very expensive L-ion battery and only got about 2 years out of that piece of crap. So, I'm hooked on "old school" wet batteries, based on cost and longevity.

Buy the battery, buy the battery, buy the....!
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Yes I'm thinking I should but the darn thing just seems so strong. There have been zero signs of age. When I go to put a trickle charge on it it shows over 80% every time. My other two bikes have brand new batteries and don't always show that. I just dislike replacing something that's working fine.
As Charlie Bravo suggested, a load test would essentially demonstrate just "how strong" the battery is.

Alternatively, hook up a voltmeter across the battery and note the droop when the starter is asserted. If it drops below 10V, it is definitely time and the battery is not strong. Some argue 10.8V is the minimum it should droop. Strong batteries will droop in the 11.x voltage range.
As Charlie Bravo suggested, a load test would essentially demonstrate just "how strong" the battery is.

Alternatively, hook up a voltmeter across the battery and note the droop when the starter is asserted. If it drops below 10V, it is definitely time and the battery is not strong. Some argue 10.8V is the minimum it should droop. Strong batteries will droop in the 11.x voltage range.
My new 2021 NC (6 mo old 8,000 miles) has a battery voltage meter in the dash. When I turn the key on it registers 12.4 to 12.5. It will drop to 10.6 to 11.3 (sometimes a little lower if its cold out, like today at 31 degrees F) when the starter is hit and jumps to between 14.3 and 14.6 when running.
 
Ok, if you're looking for the cheapest option, just drive down to my place (WNC). I've got a load tester. We'll test out the battery under load, so you can be 100٪ certain. Heck, I'll even provide free beer while we're doing this strenuous garage task. Then there will be no question of whether you're spending your money wisely! So, where's the flawed logic in this plan?
 
I use the Testmate Sport batterie tester (load tester ) very well made and easy to use.
The A-man_imp said:
Ok, if you're looking for the cheapest option, just drive down to my place (WNC). I've got a load tester. We'll test out the battery under load, so you can be 100٪ certain. Heck, I'll even provide free beer while we're doing this strenuous garage task. Then there will be no question of whether you're spending your money wisely! So, where's the flawed logic in this plan?
The flaw is that you do not pay for the gas I spend coming to do this test , as you probably realize that I am cheap........
 
The A-man_imp said:
Ok, if you're looking for the cheapest option, just drive down to my place (WNC). I've got a load tester. We'll test out the battery under load, so you can be 100٪ certain. Heck, I'll even provide free beer while we're doing this strenuous garage task. Then there will be no question of whether you're spending your money wisely! So, where's the flawed logic in this plan?
Ah man! That is so tempting. Dang.
 
Thread starter
Tev62_imp said:
As Charlie Bravo says, just get the battery drop tested, aka load tested, and it should give you a good picture on its health. The gauge or digital readouts will give an unambiguous recommendation.
Yes, I agree. At this point I'm really just guessing.
PowerDubs_imp said:

And this looks like the right tool to do it. Thanks PD!
Houtman_imp said:
That was what I was wondering. What is the life span? I realize that can depend on many factors but there should be an average to go by.
The A-man_imp said:
Ok, if you're looking for the cheapest option, just drive down to my place (WNC). I've got a load tester. We'll test out the battery under load, so you can be 100٪ certain. Heck, I'll even provide free beer while we're doing this strenuous garage task. Then there will be no question of whether you're spending your money wisely! So, where's the flawed logic in this plan?
I don't know if I have till August....:angel::biker:
 
I’m on my third battery. The others lasted about 4 years, but, as others have said, they die without a lot of warning.
 
The original in mine lasted 4 years and 2 months before it wouldn't start after a stop at a gas station. That was on 5/12/2018. I'll be replacing mine in May this year, 4 years after the last one was replaced.
 
Guess you have to make up your mind, preventive maintenance (here: replace battery on a calendar date - hopefully before it dies) or not (wait until she dies). The problem is any time span chosen for the preventive maintenance can be badly wrong.
I had at least one car battery which lasted over 8 years(checked invoices as I couldn't believe it), and it's obsolete technology is clearly less dependable than any AGM. The way my CB's battery maintains charge over winter (in her 5 winter since manufacturing) is simply stunning. What if she last another 24 months ? Getting rid of this thing is hard to justify ... I'd rather put her on a "minder" ... when I remember ...:worship:
 
I do not think that it is worth taking the risk trying to find out how long the batterie last and than being stranded somewhere . I replace my car batterie every 4 years and bike batterie every 3-4 years .
 
I typically wait for the first warning, then shop for the replacement.

This is not ideal, but I've been lucky forever that batteries tend to give me an early warning.
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
I typically wait for the first warning, then shop for the replacement.

This is not ideal, but I've been lucky forever that batteries tend to give me an early warning.
Twice in the last 30 years I was far from home and the battery suddenly went weak and barley started the bikes.
In both cases I had plenty of gas and beat it straight for home and bought new batteries the next day.
Since then, I've been keeping a record of the ages of the batteries from new and start thinking of a replacement when they get to be 6-7 years old.
Batteries in our cooler climate have a longer life and so far, I haven't been let down.
 
The dealer. Get the OEM Japanese made Yuasa. Yeah it’s pricey.
 
But it's the best. Not an aftermarket Yuasa. Order it by Honda part number.
 
Why not an aftermarket Yuasa?
 
Cormanus_imp said:
Why not an aftermarket Yuasa?
The aftermarket Yuasa's have always had a poor reputation when compared to the Japanese Yuasa's. Now whether that is still the case I don't know, but I'm not willing to risk it when I'm spending that kind of money and depending on my battery when I'm on trips.

I know people that have sworn they got great service out of Bike Master, Batteries Plus, Meijer and Walmart batteries, so ya spends your money and takes your chances with them all I guess. I might buy one of them if I was on a trip and my original battery died and there were no Japanese Yuasa's available. Would beat pushing.

I believe in Honda and the products they use. I use Honda oil, filters, spark plugs, brake pads, air cleaners, chains and sprockets because they have always given me what I consider the best service.
 
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