Battery Question

[KiowaEagle_imp]

I keep thinking I need to change my battery. I've got a 2014 Standard bought as a leftover in May of 2018 and I'm assuming they put a new battery in at that time, but who knows? If they did it's at least almost 4 years old. But every time I go to put the charger on it it's fine, over an 80% charge. Plus I don't try to charge it much, I try to remember to do it within a month if I haven't ridden it.

So should I replace it this spring when it turns at least 4 or am I paranoid and let it go until I see signs of age/failure?

 

[Houtman_imp]

Very simple : Get a new one !

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Does the battery have a date code?

Example: Yuasa

https://www.hardwarexpress.co.uk/yuasa-date-codes-41-w.asp

 

[Aussieflyer]

If it holds charge and has power to start your bike then keep it and keep riding. Bikes are easy to roll start providing there is enough battery to power the fuel pump ... don't keep cranking the motor if it doesn't easily start, save the battery for the fuel pump.
P.s. My battery failed at 6 years.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Why take the risk and bother , just get a new one .

 

[Obleo]

Mine took a dump at 4 years , always on a tender. My choice is to replace it. They can leave you stranded .

 

[Rocky_imp]

Why take the risk and bother , just get a new one .

I couldn't agree more. At the first hint of a battery problem I get a new one.
Up here we don't have to contend with the very hot temps of our southern neighbours so batteries tend to have an easier and longer life. 6-7 years is common for my batteries.
A couple of years ago I was about 70 miles from home on my Bonneville. After lunch the engine barely turned over, but it fired and I rode straight home without stopping.
I was thankful I at least had a warning

 

[The A-man]

I'm on the "just get a new one bandwagon". I had a similar quandry just before last summer's "Three Amigos Ride Again" trip. I pulled the weak battery, went to Advance Auto Parts, and for about $130-$150, I bought myself peace of mind that will last for several more years. Plus, they offered Die Hard Batteries, which I've always had a great deal of confidence in.

BTW - I previously tried an very expensive L-ion battery and only got about 2 years out of that piece of crap. So, I'm hooked on "old school" wet batteries, based on cost and longevity.

Buy the battery, buy the battery, buy the....!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Technically for AGMs, after three years time is borrowed. I managed five years on my 2014 OEM battery and had a few warnings - maybe one too many, but it worked out for me.

 

[Charlie Bravo_imp]

You could give it a load test, but buying a new one is relatively cheap peace of mind.

 

[KiowaEagle_imp]

I'm on the "just get a new one bandwagon". I had a similar quandry just before last summer's "Three Amigos Ride Again" trip. I pulled the weak battery, went to Advance Auto Parts, and for about $130-$150, I bought myself peace of mind that will last for several more years. Plus, they offered Die Hard Batteries, which I've always had a great deal of confidence in.

BTW - I previously tried an very expensive L-ion battery and only got about 2 years out of that piece of crap. So, I'm hooked on "old school" wet batteries, based on cost and longevity.

Buy the battery, buy the battery, buy the....!

Yes I'm thinking I should but the darn thing just seems so strong. There have been zero signs of age. When I go to put a trickle charge on it it shows over 80% every time. My other two bikes have brand new batteries and don't always show that. I just dislike replacing something that's working fine.

 

[Nachodaddy]

Wait! Here's an idea.:idea: Keep using this battery, but start a pool to see who can come closest to guessing when it will fail. Everybody chips in $5. and the winner splits the winnings with you to help pay for your trouble.

 

[KiowaEagle_imp]

Wait! Here's an idea.:idea: Keep using this battery, but start a pool to see who can come closest to guessing when it will fail. Everybody chips in $5. and the winner splits the winnings with you to help pay for your trouble.

I like that Nacho! :clap: Ok, you're first!

 

[Mtneers]

I bought my ‘14 in October ‘16. In October ‘18, I stopped about 1/2 mile from the house to refuel. I topped it off and hit the starter button….the dreadful CLICK CLICK CLICK sound was all I heard. With a little bump start and minimal juice in the battery, it fired up. Rode it back home and went to buy a new battery at BatterysPlus.

You have to ask yourself this question:

“How far can I push 400+ pounds of dead weight before I stop and kick myself in the A _ _ because I didn’t buy a new battery?”

Put your mind at ease. They don’t give much of any warning when they finally fizzle out. Like Houtman said… buy the battery! You already got your money’s worth out of the original battery.

I also started carrying motorcycle jumper cables, which I’ve had to use on a another rider’s bike.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Tev62]

As Charlie Bravo says, just get the battery drop tested, aka load tested, and it should give you a good picture on its health. The gauge or digital readouts will give an unambiguous recommendation.

 

[peterbaron]

I heard that one rider always carries a 25 mile extension cord with charger...just in case

 

[Houtman_imp]

Is that the same guy whom has an electric car ?

 

[peterbaron]

Is that the same guy whom has an electric car ?

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I'm on the "just get a new one bandwagon". I had a similar quandry just before last summer's "Three Amigos Ride Again" trip. I pulled the weak battery, went to Advance Auto Parts, and for about $130-$150, I bought myself peace of mind that will last for several more years. Plus, they offered Die Hard Batteries, which I've always had a great deal of confidence in.

BTW - I previously tried an very expensive L-ion battery and only got about 2 years out of that piece of crap. So, I'm hooked on "old school" wet batteries, based on cost and longevity.

Buy the battery, buy the battery, buy the....!

Yes I'm thinking I should but the darn thing just seems so strong. There have been zero signs of age. When I go to put a trickle charge on it it shows over 80% every time. My other two bikes have brand new batteries and don't always show that. I just dislike replacing something that's working fine.

As Charlie Bravo suggested, a load test would essentially demonstrate just "how strong" the battery is.

Alternatively, hook up a voltmeter across the battery and note the droop when the starter is asserted. If it drops below 10V, it is definitely time and the battery is not strong. Some argue 10.8V is the minimum it should droop. Strong batteries will droop in the 11.x voltage range.

 

[Houtman_imp]

To be honest I do not understand why people take the risk of getting stranded somewhere because they did not on time change a part what only has a certain life span .