auto tune 02 sensor

[outback_imp]

Is anybody running the pcv with the "auto tune" and a "full delkevic exhaust"?? Just interested in how and "where" you mounted/positioned the o2 sensor?? And routed the cable? Thanks guys.

 

[andyferd_imp]

Hi Outback. I'm running the PCV/autotune with the delkevic headers and mid pipe. In order to use the autotune-supplied O2 sensor you have to grind off the existing O2 bung on the Delkevic mid pipe and weld on a new bung since they are different sizes (The autotune O2 sensor is bigger as I recall). I welded the new bung to the same spot on the midpipe and didn't run into any position issues when installing the new O2 sensor. I don't remember exactly where I routed the cable but I followed the original O2 sensor routing to get to under the seat where I mounted the PCV/autotune.

 

[outback_imp]

Hi Outback. I'm running the PCV/autotune with the delkevic headers and mid pipe. In order to use the autotune-supplied O2 sensor you have to grind off the existing O2 bung on the Delkevic mid pipe and weld on a new bung since they are different sizes (The autotune O2 sensor is bigger as I recall). I welded the new bung to the same spot on the midpipe and didn't run into any position issues when installing the new O2 sensor. I don't remember exactly where I routed the cable but I followed the original O2 sensor routing to get to under the seat where I mounted the PCV/autotune.

Thanks for the info andyferd, I guess im not going to run the pcv after all, I guess its not needed with just a open exhaust mod, and best to just plug the stock 02 sensor back into the new header.
.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

If you are doing a full exhaust- you should definitely add fuel or you will be running lean.

You don't 'need' the autotune- a power commander by itself will allow you to add fuel...the autotune just does all the adjustment work for you and makes it the best it can be.

 

[outback_imp]

If you are doing a full exhaust- you should definitely add fuel or you will be running lean.

You don't 'need' the autotune- a power commander by itself will allow you to add fuel...the autotune just does all the adjustment work for you and makes it the best it can be.

Thanks PD, Thats what i thought too after hours of reading about it on this forum.
So now im not really shore what i should do? Keep in mind im not looking for a bunch more hp , just a louder sound more like my old bikes sounded. one tells me with a full exhaust being the "only modification" , all stock on the intake side. im better off just plugging the stock 02 sensor back into the new header?
And you say it will definetly run too lean.
Too lean to where it will cause damage to the engine??
anybody else want to chime in and give me their opinion?
I already have the pcv and auto tune box, And if that is going to make it run better ,maybe a little "cooler", and not give me horrible gas milage, id be all for it.

 

[outback_imp]

If you are doing a full exhaust- you should definitely add fuel or you will be running lean.

You don't 'need' the autotune- a power commander by itself will allow you to add fuel...the autotune just does all the adjustment work for you and makes it the best it can be.

Thanks PD, Thats what i thought too after hours of reading about it on this forum.
So now im not really shore what i should do? Keep in mind im not looking for a bunch more hp , just a louder sound more like my old bikes sounded. one tells me with a full exhaust being the "only modification" , all stock on the intake side. im better off just plugging the stock 02 sensor back into the new header?
And you say it will definetly run too lean.
Too lean to where it will cause damage to the engine??
anybody else want to chime in and give me their opinion?
I already have the pcv and auto tune box, And if that is going to make it run better ,maybe a little "cooler", and not give me horrible gas milage, id be all for it.

Thanks PD, Thats what i thought too after hours of reading about it on this forum.
So now im not really shore what i should do? Keep in mind im not looking for a bunch more hp , just a louder sound more like my old bikes sounded. one tells me with a full exhaust being the "only modification" , all stock on the intake side. im better off just plugging the stock 02 sensor back into the new header?
And you say it will definetly run too lean.
Too lean to where it will cause damage to the engine??
anybody else want to chime in and give me their opinion?
I already have the pcv and auto tune box, And if that is going to make it run better ,maybe a little "cooler", and not give me horrible gas milage, id be all for it. and im really not that concerned about gas milage. My 0ld arthritic body doesnt go on long rides anyway. lol

 

[andyferd_imp]

Outback - I would at least install the PCV. Sure the bike will run without it and probably not blow up, but you will definitely be running a lot leaner and hotter than stock. If you want to have some fun dialing in the AFR and getting the most out of the bike and your mods, the autotune is the way to go.

 

[outback_imp]

Outback - I would at least install the PCV. Sure the bike will run without it and probably not blow up, but you will definitely be running a lot leaner and hotter than stock. If you want to have some fun dialing in the AFR and getting the most out of the bike and your mods, the autotune is the way to go.

Thanks andyferd , I certainly dont want it running hotter or leaner than need be so It sounds to me like that would be the best way to go. Ill just have to get a cheap little laptop computer. What mods did you do to your bike?

 

[andyferd_imp]

Outback - Cosmetically, you can see some pictures here:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=17400

In terms of performance mods, I have done:
17 tooth front sprocket
Delkevic headers/mid pipe
Yoshimura RS-3 muffler
TSR air intake funnel
K&N air filter
Bored-out velocity stacks
PCV/Autotune

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Outback- lets put it this way- these bikes ran hot enough (and lean enough) from the factory that they had issues during the design phase with part failure...that's why our spark plugs ended up with their own little cooling fins as example.

Even a 100% stock bike would run better - and cooler- with a power commander, even without the autotune.

If you already have the power commander and autotune- might as well use them. Having a bung welded on is chump change in comparison.

When I did on my Arrow header- I left the standard smaller bung- just in case anyone wanted to use it in the future, just put in a cap, and put the larger bung next to it so I have both options going forward.

On my new 4-4 I just had 2 large bungs put in custom- as I also bought a 2 channel autotune box that I will install so I can tune the left 2 cylinders separate from the right 2.

 

[outback_imp]

Outback- lets put it this way- these bikes ran hot enough (and lean enough) from the factory that they had issues during the design phase with part failure...that's why our spark plugs ended up with their own little cooling fins as example.

Even a 100% stock bike would run better - and cooler- with a power commander, even without the autotune.

If you already have the power commander and autotune- might as well use them. Having a bung welded on is chump change in comparison.

When I did on my Arrow header- I left the standard smaller bung- just in case anyone wanted to use it in the future, just put in a cap, and put the larger bung next to it so I have both options going forward.

On my new 4-4 I just had 2 large bungs put in custom- as I also bought a 2 channel autotune box that I will install so I can tune the left 2 cylinders separate from the right 2.

Thanks PD for your help, and explanations, Ill be having my buddy weld in the bung for the auto tune. Just need to get a cheap little laptop to use it and save the adjustments.

 

[outback_imp]

Interesting, According to dynojet i should keep the stock 02 sensor in the system.


Posts: 33
Joined: Aug 2021
Post: #27RE: full delkevic exhaust
Thought this might be interesting to you guys, Ive been doing a lot of reading about the stock 02 sensor and what to do with it when changing exhaust ect. I decided to ask the guys at dynojet and see what they recomend. I told them the year of the bike, and the modifications i made , ect. This is what they told me

Danny Boardman (Dynojet)

Jan 14, 2022, 10:37 AM PST

Greetings gary, thank you for your inquiry. We appreciate your interest and support for our products.

For the modern bikes with closed loop systems we have found in recent testing and analysis that most modern engines now have actually been designed to run at the leaner factory settings. In the closed loop area of the fuel curve we find they generally run better if the factory closed loop system is retained and not changed. That area is generally very low engine load conditions at the low rpm and throttle, so it does not require substantial fuel changes to run optimally like the high rpm, high throttle settings do. Due to this and ever tighter emissions regulations at the state and federal levels we now recommend the factory closed loop O2 sensor components be left connected, and if using our Auto Tune it would only make adjustments outside that area where they are truly needed for the high engine load conditions at higher rpm and throttle settings. Leaving the factory sensors in place and installing the Auto tune for fuel adjustments outside the closed loop area actually gives you the best overall compromise between fuel economy and power and performance when actually needed. You get maximum economy in the low rpm throttle range, and max power and performance in the high rpm, throttle range.

Powersports Technical Support
Dynojet Research, Inc.
Free: (800)992-4993

 

[the Ferret]

Good info.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Note he said for emissions / fuel economy. (compromises)

Remember the EPA is really cracking down on tuning shops- so they aren’t going to go on record saying to remove / bypass factory sensors.

We already know on THESE bikes that low rpm low throttle is twitchy with the factory sensor fueling. They run / ride better with the sensor bypassed even on an otherwise 100% stock bike. That is a fact- not an opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[outback_imp]

Note he said for emissions / fuel economy. (compromises)

Remember the EPA is really cracking down on tuning shops- so they aren’t going to go on record saying to remove / bypass factory sensors.

We already know on THESE bikes that low rpm low throttle is twitchy with the factory sensor fueling. They run / ride better with the sensor bypassed even on an otherwise 100% stock bike. That is a fact- not an opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks PD, Yes i did note those things and after all my reading and learning i'me still going use the 02 delete plug.

 

[Houtman_imp]

Note he said for emissions / fuel economy. (compromises)

Remember the EPA is really cracking down on tuning shops- so they aren’t going to go on record saying to remove / bypass factory sensors.

We already know on THESE bikes that low rpm low throttle is twitchy with the factory sensor fueling. They run / ride better with the sensor bypassed even on an otherwise 100% stock bike. That is a fact- not an opinion.



I do agree with the above statement from my experience with my 2013 and 2104 with the O2 sensor bypassed .

 

[outback_imp]

ok guys, Getting nice outside. I picked up a laptop and loaded up the dynojet program software and fuel map for the 2014 w/yoshi slip on, So i can run the auto tune. I figured that map was best as its the only one thats the same year bike.
Couple Question , After running the bike for a session do you need to keep the ignition on to save the trims?
Also ive read some say not to save the trims every time you ride it for a session and some say aprox. 30 minute rides and save trims every time?
I figured since some of you guys have expierance with the auto tune you might have a few tips or helpful ideas.

Thanks Guys

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

It's up to you-

Keep in mind you may not hit every RPM at every throttle position in a short ride.

And before you apply the changes look at the map and IF there is anything odd- take it out.

Then ride again.

If you think about how many time per second 4-5-6-7-8 THOUSAND RPM is- and then realize each combustion event is crammed into a pipe for the sensor to read...it takes many rides and adaptations to get it to where you want it to be.

I'd say a good 15-20 min ride at least- and try to vary your rpm and throttle position, even if that means riding in unnatural ways to achieve it.

The further from stock your bike- the more it matters.

You want to try to hit all possibilities- low, mid, high RPM at all throttle positions and load.

Just try to avoid quick throttle chop / cuts.

 

[outback_imp]

thanks pd