Gone in 60
Road warrior
Thread starter
I broke my own axiom today... We didn't have any delivery runs on the book for this morning, so I decided to address a nagging issue on the BMW I've been riding lately.
Each of these used BMWs has some unique and weird character flaw. For example, one has a constant "headlight bulb out" warning despite having perfectly good bulbs, but the error won't clear. On this particular bike, the Carpuride CarPlay screen powers on with the key, but doesn't come back on after the power dip when the engine starts. This means that on startup, I need to briefly unplug and replug the screen before I put my gloves on to get the screen to power back up. Not tragic, but inconvenient.
Initially thinking it was a battery, I swapped it with a newer battery from another bike. No fix. This morning, I decided to find another switched power source on the bike to tap into to see if it would fix the problem. Found a wire under the seat near the ECU that would work, after cruising the BMW forum and seeing a mention of an under-seat wire to power accessories. This required pulling a good number of panels off to route the wiring further back. Not fun, but if it fixes the problem, well worth it.
I probed around the various harnesses under the seat, and found a switched wire that seemed to have more amperage than the source I've used for the other accessories like phone and camera chargers, horn and trigger for the spotlights. I tapped into that wire for the CarPlay screen and it stayed powered through the startup "dip". Problem solved! I had to run extra wire from the front of the bike to under the seat, but not a big deal.
Buttoning everything back up, I started the bike and noticed every warning light on the dash lit up, including a TPMS warning. Very weird. Even more strange, the left side handlebar controls were dead. This included the turn signals, windshield raise/lower switch and the menu switch. Ok, time to pull out the scan tool and diagnose. After all, I just tapped a 12v wire under the seat, I didn't change anything else.
I got a list of five separate trouble codes, and decided to sit down at the computer and ask Gemini (Google's AI) what all of this meant. Gemini chewed on it for a while, and said that this was a commonly reported problem on these bikes with higher age and mileage. The small CPU inside the left handlebar control can become brittle and break, and since the CAN-Bus system connects several functions, this failure also takes out the TPMS system, triggering the warning. This was very comprehensive information! Bad news, however. The next step Gemini recommended was disassembling the left handlebar controls and probing the harness for power, to see if the failure was in the harness or the control CPU. There was no power from the harness.
The next suggestion was to pull the fuel tank plastic trim to get to the other end of the harness going to the handlebars. This involves removing the majority of the bike's bodywork. And I'd already taken the handlebar assembly apart. Although it looked like there was a clear cause for the problem, before I took the bike further apart, I decided to at least check my work under the seat to make sure I didn't leave a wire exposed, touching something else.
Pulling the seat, I traced the wire I tapped into to a black connector that looked weird. I pulled the cap off of the connector, exposing two accessory fuses. One of them had blown. A-HA.
I replaced the fuse, and everything worked as it did before. Somehow, I must have shorted that wire while screwing a Posi-Tap into it. Hard to see how, but apparently I did.
I put the handlebars back together, along with the bodywork that I had removed to get to the plugs and harnesses that might have been the problem. The whole time, I was cursing myself, asking why I didn't just go back to the last thing I touched as the likely source of the problem.
I then sat back down at the computer, and told Gemini "Hey, fixed it, the problem was a blown fuse under the seat."
Gemini replied "....Is this an RTP police bike?" I replied "Yes, it is."
Gemini then basically said "Why didn't you tell me that in the first place, you idiot?? RTP police bikes are wired differently than civilian bikes, and the TPMS and left handlebar functions are powered by a fuse under the seat. I would have told you to check that first!"
I should have known to go back and check that area under the seat before I did anything else. That was the last place I did something to the bike, and apparently I shorted a wire that ended up shutting down other parts of the bike nowhere near that wire I touched. And now, I had Gemini reinforcing my failure to check my work before tearing the bike apart.
Have a new problem? Always start by looking at the last thing you did!
Each of these used BMWs has some unique and weird character flaw. For example, one has a constant "headlight bulb out" warning despite having perfectly good bulbs, but the error won't clear. On this particular bike, the Carpuride CarPlay screen powers on with the key, but doesn't come back on after the power dip when the engine starts. This means that on startup, I need to briefly unplug and replug the screen before I put my gloves on to get the screen to power back up. Not tragic, but inconvenient.
Initially thinking it was a battery, I swapped it with a newer battery from another bike. No fix. This morning, I decided to find another switched power source on the bike to tap into to see if it would fix the problem. Found a wire under the seat near the ECU that would work, after cruising the BMW forum and seeing a mention of an under-seat wire to power accessories. This required pulling a good number of panels off to route the wiring further back. Not fun, but if it fixes the problem, well worth it.
I probed around the various harnesses under the seat, and found a switched wire that seemed to have more amperage than the source I've used for the other accessories like phone and camera chargers, horn and trigger for the spotlights. I tapped into that wire for the CarPlay screen and it stayed powered through the startup "dip". Problem solved! I had to run extra wire from the front of the bike to under the seat, but not a big deal.
Buttoning everything back up, I started the bike and noticed every warning light on the dash lit up, including a TPMS warning. Very weird. Even more strange, the left side handlebar controls were dead. This included the turn signals, windshield raise/lower switch and the menu switch. Ok, time to pull out the scan tool and diagnose. After all, I just tapped a 12v wire under the seat, I didn't change anything else.
I got a list of five separate trouble codes, and decided to sit down at the computer and ask Gemini (Google's AI) what all of this meant. Gemini chewed on it for a while, and said that this was a commonly reported problem on these bikes with higher age and mileage. The small CPU inside the left handlebar control can become brittle and break, and since the CAN-Bus system connects several functions, this failure also takes out the TPMS system, triggering the warning. This was very comprehensive information! Bad news, however. The next step Gemini recommended was disassembling the left handlebar controls and probing the harness for power, to see if the failure was in the harness or the control CPU. There was no power from the harness.
The next suggestion was to pull the fuel tank plastic trim to get to the other end of the harness going to the handlebars. This involves removing the majority of the bike's bodywork. And I'd already taken the handlebar assembly apart. Although it looked like there was a clear cause for the problem, before I took the bike further apart, I decided to at least check my work under the seat to make sure I didn't leave a wire exposed, touching something else.
Pulling the seat, I traced the wire I tapped into to a black connector that looked weird. I pulled the cap off of the connector, exposing two accessory fuses. One of them had blown. A-HA.
I replaced the fuse, and everything worked as it did before. Somehow, I must have shorted that wire while screwing a Posi-Tap into it. Hard to see how, but apparently I did.
I put the handlebars back together, along with the bodywork that I had removed to get to the plugs and harnesses that might have been the problem. The whole time, I was cursing myself, asking why I didn't just go back to the last thing I touched as the likely source of the problem.
I then sat back down at the computer, and told Gemini "Hey, fixed it, the problem was a blown fuse under the seat."
Gemini replied "....Is this an RTP police bike?" I replied "Yes, it is."
Gemini then basically said "Why didn't you tell me that in the first place, you idiot?? RTP police bikes are wired differently than civilian bikes, and the TPMS and left handlebar functions are powered by a fuse under the seat. I would have told you to check that first!"
I should have known to go back and check that area under the seat before I did anything else. That was the last place I did something to the bike, and apparently I shorted a wire that ended up shutting down other parts of the bike nowhere near that wire I touched. And now, I had Gemini reinforcing my failure to check my work before tearing the bike apart.
Have a new problem? Always start by looking at the last thing you did!

