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edit; ( exeed the 1hr limit )
The oil pressure switch is just above the oxigen sensor and the neutral switch is under the engine block just behind the oil pan and has a light green wire, they combine into one sub wiring harness and travel to the throttle body in one pvc sleeve and end up in a two pole connector, which is loose.
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(09-17-2019, 06:22 PM)max_imp Wrote: Hi rocketz, your problem with the neutral switch is that the neutral switch / oil pressure sensor 2 pole connector is unplugged.
This connector is behind the right black plastic cover that is over the injectors/throttle body, has a green and a blue wire connecting to an identical pair of wires.
to remove this cover you have to undo the m8/12 mm head bolt that secures the fueltank, lift the tank CAREFULLY just enough so the little plastic screw that holds the black plastic cover in place can be unscrewed, pulled out ( it's a pushpin clip ) and the cover removed, the connector is located behind the no4 injector and 4 pole iacv connectors and inside a black plastic shroud.
You can also follow the oil pressure switch ( under the engine block just behind the oil pan ) green wire and see where it connects to the wiring loom , you have likely to remove the right hand sidecover to do this.
The engine warning light is on because the e.c.u. cannot detect the ( closed ) contacts of the oil pressure switch in the startup check sequence of the e.c.u.
This screenshot shows u pointing at the "engine warning light" with the engine off, at this point the oil pressure light MUST be on until the oil pump opens the contacts of the oil pressure switch when the engine runs.
The oil pressure light is on in the next screenshot as part of the e.c.u. startup sequence checks, so the light itself is working but it does not stay on because the oil pressure switch is not connected.
The common point for both faults is this 2 pole connector behind the no4 injector.
This could solve the engine cutting out when it is put in gear, i think the e.c.u.is programmed trying to protect the engine, if not the sidestand switch has to be checked for correct operation per this electrical diagram and the connector for the sidestand switch can be located behind the left side cover as the middle connector of three, it has two green wires.'
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid248214
Se how useful this video was? thanks for posting.
i will do as your instruction tomorrow,and youre so genius about CB1100.i salute for your knowledge.awesome.
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Would you be able to upload a video of the repair and end-result for the group's interest?
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(09-18-2019, 01:44 PM)max_imp Wrote: Would you be able to upload a video of the repair and end-result for the group's interest?
will do,youre genius
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Agreed. You will note the gear indicator has a dash and the green "N" indicator for neutral is not lit. That connector would appear to be the fault.
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Hi Max,
sorry for my very late response due my works,i tried to find unpluged connector but it seems all the connector connected.I found one connector that i have no idea where it lead or connected to.
The condition is the same,engine stall when put to first gear.please help.
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None of the pics show and clicking on them gives a Google error.
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(09-02-2020, 01:38 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: None of the pics show and clicking on them gives a Google error.
edited Lord popgun,thanks
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Hello rocketz,
Just to summarize, this has been a problem from first starting, and the dealerships are unable to provide any assistance. Yours is a 2018 RS model, and has an additional red indicator on the right of the tach which our US models don't have. What is it for?
I am in the US, and the last CB1100 sold here was a 2017 EX model, but our 2017 shop manual also covers RS model.
I do not know why the FI light stays on, as it should go out after the key is turned on and the needles sweep. There are no FI codes directly related to the neutral or oil pressure circuits. It may be unrelated.
The gear indicator flashing the "-" is normal when the engine starts, however the green "N" should indicate, which it doesn't here. Max thinks the problem lies in the neutral light circuit, and I think he's right.
There are 2 neutral indicator switches. One is the gear position indicator switch that is responsible for the "-" display. I see you had the countershaft cover off to check that switch, but it is unrelated - it indicates properly.
The neutral switch Max refers to is underneath the engine, just aft of the oil pan, on the right side. There is a single wire going to it that just plugs up into the switch. If it is plugged in, then the next test is to unplug it and ground the wire with the key on, engine not running - the "N" should light. If still not, test the switch by checking for continuity from its center pin to any ground, like the crankcase.
Let us know what you find. The yellow FI light may be another issue.
