Fuel gauge flashing from center outward....

[jtopiso_imp]

Check the plug under the left hand side cover that goes to the gas tank. The one that gets unplugged when you remove the tank.

I had my tank off a few days ago, and turned on the key so I could check power on my dynojet install- and my dash gave the same light dance with the tank unplugged. Once I put it back together it went back to normal.

So either that connection is loose, corroded, the wiring may be damaged somehow (pinched?)...etc.

Good back up to Popgun's advice.

Good back up to Popgun's advice.

Connections are good but one wire has a auspicious s kind of kink in it, it just might be the culprit. I’ll have to get a better look at it. Thanks.


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Suggest that you disconnect the connector then push each wire into the connector firmly before reconnecting,

Suggest that you disconnect the connector then push each wire into the connector firmly before reconnecting,

I’ll try it. Thanks


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Suggest that you disconnect the connector then push each wire into the connector firmly before reconnecting,

I’ll try it. Thanks


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It's a simple mechanism. I guess you can re-check every connection and weld (look for cracks on welds), use some contact cleaner everywhere (specially on the variable resistor), and that should be it.

If in doubt, you can always take it to an electronics shop, so they can check/replace all the electronic components (some resistors and capacitors at most), so you get a complete refurbished unit for a few dollars.

[thomas_imp]

Hi,

I own a 2017 CB1100EX and facing the same problem.

The first 100km everything is fine. If I have to stop or shut off the engine later the show begins. Up to 150km is helps to shake the bike. Then it will be fine. Later you can forget it.
May I have a mechanical and not a electrical problem.

Maybe user @jtopsio is still a active member of this board: do you fix the problem? If yes, do you replace the part complete or do you find the problem?

Best Regards

Thomas

[Cormanus]

Thomas, it was MMC who reported the problem. He’s still active on the forum.

[mattmcuomo@yahoo.com]

Problem was never solved. I've got over 95,000 miles on it now. The bike still runs like a top. It's just annoying, it doesn't affect the way the bike runs or performs.

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[GoldOxide_imp]

Hi,

I own a 2017 CB1100EX and facing the same problem.

The first 100km everything is fine. If I have to stop or shut off the engine later the show begins. Up to 150km is helps to shake the bike. Then it will be fine. Later you can forget it.
May I have a mechanical and not a electrical problem.

Maybe user @jtopsio is still a active member of this board: do you fix the problem? If yes, do you replace the part complete or do you find the problem?

Best Regards

Thomas

Can't help to think it is "heat related". That is, what ever the issue is, it manifests with an accumulation of static heat - like after an extended ride. It could be a marginal short (or open) on an exposed conductor or marginal connector.

Might need to dig deep into the wiring bundles and associated connectors near and around the lump.

[max]

The sender inside the tank has gone " open circuit " ( loose wire ) here is a video of Martin repairing a cb1100 cluster.
At 7.00 minutes into the video he demonstrates the indicator effect, then connects a 100 ohm resistor across the sender wires and it shows the fuel level half full.
The smaller the resistance the fuller the tank indicates;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEMKcnTuzMY




The tank needs to be removed, emptied and the sender checked with an ohm meter, it's very simple if you know how to work a multi meter.
There is a remote chance one terminal is loose under the tank, easy to check with the tank lifted up slightly and watching the fuel display, could be worth a shot.

[thomas_imp]

Problem was never solved. I've got over 95,000 miles on it now. The bike still runs like a top. It's just annoying, it doesn't affect the way the bike runs or performs.

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Hi,

thank you for reply. Yes, same here. The bike is working normal.
Problem is, I have to fix this. If it is blinking in case of technical control the bike failed and I have to retry. Thats expensive and burning a lot of time.

@GoldOxide
Thank you for your hint. I think in my case it isn't a heat problem. The problem also arrived, before i start to ride and the bike is in the garage.
After shaking the bike it will be fine again. In europe this part is about 800 EUR... i think next step is to remove and review the pump.

@Max: thank you for the link.

[GoldOxide_imp]

Very good thomas. May you make quick history of your issue.

[tommymck_imp]

Problem was never solved. I've got over 95,000 miles on it now. The bike still runs like a top. It's just annoying, it doesn't affect the way the bike runs or performs.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Hi,

thank you for reply. Yes, same here. The bike is working normal.
Problem is, I have to fix this. If it is blinking in case of technical control the bike failed and I have to retry. Thats expensive and burning a lot of time.

@GoldOxide
Thank you for your hint. I think in my case it isn't a heat problem. The problem also arrived, before i start to ride and the bike is in the garage.
After shaking the bike it will be fine again. In europe this part is about 800 EUR... i think next step is to remove and review the pump.

@Max: thank you for the link.

Hi,

thank you for reply. Yes, same here. The bike is working normal.
Problem is, I have to fix this. If it is blinking in case of technical control the bike failed and I have to retry. Thats expensive and burning a lot of time.

@GoldOxide
Thank you for your hint. I think in my case it isn't a heat problem. The problem also arrived, before i start to ride and the bike is in the garage.
After shaking the bike it will be fine again. In europe this part is about 800 EUR... i think next step is to remove and review the pump.

@Max: thank you for the link.
If I understand your post, it sounds like in your case, you only get the strange indication over a certain range of fuel levels. That sounds like, as others have indicated, some sort of fault in the sender, and not with the wiring (though you never know...)

Definitely worth taking it out, plugging it in to the bike, and looking at the indication throughout the range of motion of the float arm.

Just to level set expectations though, tank removal on the 2017 isn't as straightforward as some might think. The release mechanism on the fuel line isn't a simple thing, and there is very little room to work it, or even to see what you're doing. The videos online are all from pre-2017s that I found. If you search here, you'll find some tips, and with persistence I'm sure you'll work it out. I can do a tank swap now in a few minutes, but the first time I tried to remove the tank it took me the better part of an afternoon.

[thomas_imp]

Hi,

my Mech was able to fix the problem. The floater (hope this is the correct english word) was able to move to big distances laterally. This distances grown, if the fuel is consumed. My Mech said he was grinding something from white plastic box which keeping the floater, but did not give more details. I think he is talking about the two noses (red), so the white plastic box is moving closer to his carrier and the black shim is moving more into the borehole (green).
The picture is from before the modification. Did not have a picture after the modification.

Its now working fine for about 1000km. Havn't enough time to ride. :-(