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Came out to a dead battery last night, I think someone put my hazards on just to be a jerk. I got jumped from a booster pack but my check engine light has been on since it was jumped. Hooking the battery up to a charger today but curious if there's a way to check the check engine light code on the 2017? I looked through the owner's manual and nothing. Closest Honda dealer is pretty far and I'd love to not have to go there just to get a low voltage code cleared if that's what it is.
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Just an update, the light status illuminated and doesn't flash at all
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There is a way to read malfunction codes without a code reader (I have one by the way

)
First, it is not called the check engine light. It is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). Not being a jerk, just trying to use the Honda terminology
Read this post to read out your code, let us know what it is and we can look it up:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid169834
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Oh boy, please tell me these bikes aren't finicky with voltage fluctuations. One of the reasons I dumped my BMW for this bike is because I apparently fried a $2700 ABS module by jump starting that thing...
Good luck, Rage!
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(08-16-2019, 02:20 AM)Gone in 60_imp Wrote: Oh boy, please tell me these bikes aren't finicky with voltage fluctuations. One of the reasons I dumped my BMW for this bike is because I apparently fried a $2700 ABS module by jump starting that thing...
Good luck, Rage!
...and how did it happen, any details?
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Crazy BMW CAN Bus electronics that you’re not supposed to breathe on because if you do like fifty BMW owners will sit outside your garage and publicly shame you or something.
All I know is after I jumped a dead battery the ABS started glitching a bit. A technician told me that their CAN Bus system freaks out when you do that. Luckily I found a buyer who didn’t care and was going to put the bike into a BMW collection.
My hope going back to Honda was a return to sane, simple electronics. The CB isn’t a CAN Bus bike, is it?
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So, I tried everything, but the MIL is not blinking at all, as soon as I turn the key it is on, start it, stays on. Solid, no flashing.
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Rage91 here is a video clip that steps through the process of checking and clearing mil codes for Honda mc's.
the wire color for the later honda's is brown and green and has a red protector cap over the Data Link Connector.
in our case the ( red ) connector is located behind the left sidecover.
As a second piece of advice you may want to try a " throttle reset", switch the key on and wait for the fuelpump to stop ( 2 sec.) slowly roll the throttle grip to full open position, and roll it back, then switch the key off, this " re-learns the tpsensor" position on the throttle body in the ecu.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpHK7gMx2WY
Also check for any easy to reach connectors like the tps if they have been unplugged or loose ( in case an expert tampered with your bike ).
Do you remember if the mil was on before you jumpstarted the bike?
So now you learned a bunch of new words
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Ha, no it was not on prior to jumping the bike. Going to a local shop to have the code pulled since it's not blinking and I want to know what it is before I clear it.
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(08-16-2019, 04:40 AM)Gone in 60_imp Wrote: Crazy BMW CAN Bus electronics that you’re not supposed to breathe on because if you do like fifty BMW owners will sit outside your garage and publicly shame you or something.
All I know is after I jumped a dead battery the ABS started glitching a bit. A technician told me that their CAN Bus system freaks out when you do that. Luckily I found a buyer who didn’t care and was going to put the bike into a BMW collection.
My hope going back to Honda was a return to sane, simple electronics. The CB isn’t a CAN Bus bike, is it?
Nah, it only waffles to the instrument cluster about fuel level and rev counter talk and you can " listen" to the "k wire" for some detailed data inputs, but that is popguns specialty and used sparingly.
Real bikes don't need a bus to run them.