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Just wanted to say I a do appreciate everyone's suggestions/contributions. I think everyone goes about investigating/solving these issues differently. I am trying to find a way that works for me.
Right now I am researching how to re-write the ECU myself. Let me know if I understand all this correctly. Basically I need a cable that connects my bike to my laptop which is able to translate the signals correctly. I found the normal OBD2 type devices do not work on pre-2017 bikes.
I have learned that my 2014 Standard has a 4-pin connector on the left side of my bike. I found two options for cables/adapters: the Healtech reader and the Honda HDS tester. They seem to range from $6 to $200. The cheap ones being from Aliexpress. Has anyone tried the something like the below? I would need to get the 4 pin adapter in addition to that.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/325680268...pt=glo2usa
As for the "Flash data" or whatever it is called. I would need the 38770-MGC-A42. PowerDubs mentioned "1973cb750 has a copy of my 2013 Part #38770-MGC-A23 ECU and Part #38770-MGC-A24 ECU." Does anyone have info on how get a copy of the 38770-MGC-A42 or 38770-MGC-A43?
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Cable kit- https://tunertools.com/products/honda-motorcycle-kit
Note that the blue cable, once I received it and looked at the label- is just a generic Vagcom cable.
I have several authentic vagcom VCDS cables from decades of owning VW/Audi so I tried one of my old ones- and it worked fine.
So if you have one already- you would just need this- https://tunertools.com/collections/honda...le-adapter
Here is the software needed to read & write the ECU file- https://hondaflasher.webnode.fi/
Tuning software- not needed if you are just loading new files provided by 1973cb750 or other people- https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm
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(05-17-2023, 10:15 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: Cable kit- https://tunertools.com/products/honda-motorcycle-kit
Note that the blue cable, once I received it and looked at the label- is just a generic Vagcom cable.
I have several authentic vagcom VCDS cables from decades of owning VW/Audi so I tried one of my old ones- and it worked fine.
So if you have one already- you would just need this- https://tunertools.com/collections/honda...le-adapter
Here is the software needed to read & write the ECU file- https://hondaflasher.webnode.fi/
Tuning software- not needed if you are just loading new files provided by 1973cb750 or other people- https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm
Thanks. Those links are very helpful. Did some more research, and the process makes sense to me.
Ill have to decide on what ECU file to use. To fix the idle issue, would it make sense to Read the file from the bike and then Write the same file? I am not sure if the ECU file on the bike is corrupted in some way. The thought is that the ECU file was fine at some point, and if the code on it has not changed then this might work the same as flashing an OEM file that I get from somewhere else.
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Send a msg to 1973cb750 and see what files he has. Hopefully by now he has a copy of the newest update Honda made.
Re flashing the same thing would- make the same thing.
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Hi All,
Just wanted to update the thread. I got the file I was planning on using. Life got busy lately, so I put off actually implementing the fix.
The past couple months I have been riding my motorcycle 5+ days a week and have experienced the issue maybe once or twice. Not sure why, but the issue is happening infrequent enough that I can live with it. If the issue begins happening more frequently in the future, I might re-write the ECU. Then I will let you guys know the results.
Thanks to all.
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(05-13-2023, 11:37 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Hello There,
My CB1100 has been experiencing high idle issues similar to other on this forum. I have spent a good amount of time reading posts hoping that someone has already figured this out for me. But I could not find someone with the exact same symptoms.
The problem I experience is that the idle RPM is about 1,500 with the clutch fully in, and the idle RPM is about 2,000 when partially out (But still dis-engaged). I have learned to ride with using two fingers to pull in the clutch. This results in my other fingers behind the clutch. When the clutch is in this position, the engine is at 2,000 RPM.
I dont think that the problem is related to the IACV because when I first start the engine it warms up at 1500 RPM and then settles at 1100 RPM. Only when I start riding does the idle never drop below 1500 RPM (clutch fully in) or 2000 RPM (clutch in with two fingers)
I think that the problem is related to the TPS because when I ride with it unplugged, the engine idles right at 1000-1100 RPM. My theory is that there is something wrong with the middle zone of the sensor. At 1500 RPM idle I get 0.5 v from the signal line, and I get 5 v on the power line.
The help I need is sourcing a new TPS. I tried cross referencing compatible part numbers and bought one for $16. That one rotated the wrong way and was no good for me. I ended up taking the OEM one off the bike, and then put it back on. Does anyone know a compatible TPS part number?
I had thought it was: 16402-REJ-W01
Compatible part numbers per random Ebay listing:
Manufacturer Part Number
16402 REJ W01, 16402 REJ 003, 16402 PWA 003
Interchange Part Number:
JT7H, JT7H20410, TPS008-03, TPS113, GEGT7610-158, 16402-RAA-A01, 16402-RAC-A01, TPS-H112, TPS-H113, JT6HB, T42002, 16402-RAA-A02, 16402-REJ-W01, T42004, 977-024, HAJT7HARK
Any other ideas are welcome. Maybe my brain is fried from thinking about this too much.
Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.
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(09-13-2023, 08:42 PM)Aleksandr_imp Wrote: (05-13-2023, 11:37 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Hello There,
My CB1100 has been experiencing high idle issues similar to other on this forum. I have spent a good amount of time reading posts hoping that someone has already figured this out for me. But I could not find someone with the exact same symptoms.
The problem I experience is that the idle RPM is about 1,500 with the clutch fully in, and the idle RPM is about 2,000 when partially out (But still dis-engaged). I have learned to ride with using two fingers to pull in the clutch. This results in my other fingers behind the clutch. When the clutch is in this position, the engine is at 2,000 RPM.
I dont think that the problem is related to the IACV because when I first start the engine it warms up at 1500 RPM and then settles at 1100 RPM. Only when I start riding does the idle never drop below 1500 RPM (clutch fully in) or 2000 RPM (clutch in with two fingers)
I think that the problem is related to the TPS because when I ride with it unplugged, the engine idles right at 1000-1100 RPM. My theory is that there is something wrong with the middle zone of the sensor. At 1500 RPM idle I get 0.5 v from the signal line, and I get 5 v on the power line.
The help I need is sourcing a new TPS. I tried cross referencing compatible part numbers and bought one for $16. That one rotated the wrong way and was no good for me. I ended up taking the OEM one off the bike, and then put it back on. Does anyone know a compatible TPS part number?
I had thought it was: 16402-REJ-W01
Compatible part numbers per random Ebay listing:
Manufacturer Part Number
16402 REJ W01, 16402 REJ 003, 16402 PWA 003
Interchange Part Number:
JT7H, JT7H20410, TPS008-03, TPS113, GEGT7610-158, 16402-RAA-A01, 16402-RAC-A01, TPS-H112, TPS-H113, JT6HB, T42002, 16402-RAA-A02, 16402-REJ-W01, T42004, 977-024, HAJT7HARK
Any other ideas are welcome. Maybe my brain is fried from thinking about this too much.
Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.
Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner . It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.Hello everyone .I have been reading this forum for a long time, since 2013. This year I faced the same problem. I read this forum a lot and tried to get to the truth. I even replaced the idling sensor, but the result was zero. It was possible to solve the problem in a motorcycle workshop in a neighboring city. The guys found errors with the help of a motorcycle scanner (see the file). It turned out that the contacts on the EU and the sensors themselves were oxidized. After clearing the contacts, everything worked as it should.
This is called diagnosis!
However, intermittent poor contact diagnosis or repairs are not easy, especially for people of a different trade.
Even for a professional tech who finds poor contact without any corrosion or oxidation is a puzzle as he has no evidence to show what was wrong.
In my trade, I deal often with situation like this.
Patience, focussing or knowing what to do will lead one, not necessary a professional, to successful repair.
Rush is never a good advisor.
Alexandr, thank you for your response .
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Basic electrical impairments is very common across any domain that has machines, whether in transport or warehouse industrial. Environment atmosphere and humidity play a significant role.
Case in point, just 30 minutes ago I could not address a LED light load. It turned out the old school mechanical address decoder needed a wee bit of contact cleaner.
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I am currently rebuilding the carbs on my son's Kawasaki EX250F (American Import) and whole mudguards and airbox's have to be removed to get to them. This leaves a lot of exposed wiring for just about every electrical item. It is a great time to go through each connection and check for corrosion etc. definitely worth doing when you can.
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