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Hi all
I've had my 2017 EX for 2 years now with just 2900 kms presently on the clock- I bought it used with 1800 kms. Over the last year or so I have had a scenario occur which is intermittent; when I turn the key to ignition on what should happen normally (BEFORE pressing the start button) is that both gauge needles should swing over clockwise & then re-settle to zero. Around 50% of the time this doesn't happen- only when I hit the start button do the needles swing round plus the engine revs crazily high momentarily & then settles to idle. This shouldn't be as the other 50% of the time the start up procedure is normal. Anyone else experience this & if so what was the problem?
Hoping for a resolution
Cheers
Dave
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Hello CBX1000,
1. Please re-check your battery post connections and ensure both terminals are tight.
2. Also check the health of your battery.
Hopefully the above will address the issues prior to the start - up .
As to high engine revs .. maybe there is something else going on..
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(05-28-2024, 12:56 AM)venturer434_imp Wrote: Hello CBX1000,
1. Please re-check your battery post connections and ensure both terminals are tight.
2. Also check the health of your battery.
Hopefully the above will address the issues prior to the start - up .
As to high engine revs .. maybe there is something else going on..
Thanks for your input- I'll do the checks as you've suggested
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Did a check today of the battery- terminals are indeed tight. Voltage is reading 12.8v without the engine running and increasing to just on 14v when idling. So I don't the battery is the issue here
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Do you use your kill switch? If the kill switch is on and the engine has been disabled, the gauges do not sweep and the fuel pump doesn’t cycle when the ignition turns on. I’ve found that, if I start the engine while the fuel pump is cycling sand the gauges are sweeping, there’s a moment when the revs are abnormally high.
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The IACV (intake air control valve) is a small stepper motor turning a threaded shaft that raises/lowers a piston within a chamber to control idle speed. When the key is turned on, it runs from one end of its range to the other to learn the limits. If the bike is started when it is still going through its cycle, it could/would cause the high idle.
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(05-29-2024, 04:58 AM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: Do you use your kill switch? If the kill switch is on and the engine has been disabled, the gauges do not sweep and the fuel pump doesn’t cycle when the ignition turns on. I’ve found that, if I start the engine while the fuel pump is cycling sand the gauges are sweeping, there’s a moment when the revs are abnormally high.
I don't as a rule use the kill switch, however the gauges DO sweep with the kill switch either on or off when the ignition is turned on. With the kill switch on the fuel pump does not cycle.
(05-29-2024, 11:55 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: The IACV (intake air control valve) is a small stepper motor turning a threaded shaft that raises/lowers a piston within a chamber to control idle speed. When the key is turned on, it runs from one end of its range to the other to learn the limits. If the bike is started when it is still going through its cycle, it could/would cause the high idle.
OK- as a test I'll delay hitting the start button once I've turned the ignition on & see what the result is
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I had a problem on my 2013 standard in which the engine would start normally, but once warmed up, it would only idle at 2000rpm. Mine was solved by replacing the ECU.
Your problem seems somewhat different, so it may be an entirely different cause. One very costly fix that I tried unsuccessfully was to replace the intake air control valve (IACV). That cost about $700 to have done at a dealership and had no effect.
I discovered that by disconnecting the Throttle Position Sensor, the bike again idled at 1100 as it should and ran the way it was designed. RPM will be limited to 5,000 and the "Check Engine" light on the dash will light up. Disconnecting the TPS puts the bike in "Limp home" mode until you can fix it. You might try this and see if the bike runs the way it is supposed to. I don't know what it will tell you, but it may help you figure out what is going on. It is easy to disconnect and your bike will run fine and not be a safety hazard this way.
It is NOT a fix, but it might stop the high rpm and erratic running and help you find a fix.
Good luck.
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(05-30-2024, 02:12 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: I had a problem on my 2013 standard in which the engine would start normally, but once warmed up, it would only idle at 2000rpm. Mine was solved by replacing the ECU.
Your problem seems somewhat different, so it may be an entirely different cause. One very costly fix that I tried unsuccessfully was to replace the intake air control valve (IACV). That cost about $700 to have done at a dealership and had no effect.
I discovered that by disconnecting the Throttle Position Sensor, the bike again idled at 1100 as it should and ran the way it was designed. RPM will be limited to 5,000 and the "Check Engine" light on the dash will light up. Disconnecting the TPS puts the bike in "Limp home" mode until you can fix it. You might try this and see if the bike runs the way it is supposed to. I don't know what it will tell you, but it may help you figure out what is going on. It is easy to disconnect and your bike will run fine and not be a safety hazard this way.
It is NOT a fix, but it might stop the high rpm and erratic running and help you find a fix.
Good luck.
Thanks for that- indeed something to think about. I would just clarify though that the high engine revs is just momentarily after hitting the start switch- the engine idles perfectly at all times. Also now that I've started waiting a little longer after turning the ignition on before hitting the start button the engine is not revving up as it did before...well not yet
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Hey, that's good news! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. I have the habit of turning on the key, twisting the throttle to full twice and then hitting the start button. That gives it a little bit of time, too.