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I've rode several cars and motorbikes in. Never spend too many thoughts on how to do it, just rode them the way I mostly ride them. Let them warm up and don't rev or accelerate them hard. Simply let them go along easily and smoothly.
I've read some articles about the way an engine develops its real power and potential by demanding and encouraging performance right from the get go.
My main interest lays in a vehicle, that will last over a long time, not creating high costs in mantainance, is reliable and a proper workhorse all the time. Not kind of a nervous thing, that may have developed the one or how many extra HPs by being treated harder, if it will ever do so.....
Interesting enough, my Prius 4 didn't need an oil change after 1.000km but the Honda and Kawa did.
Different philosophies of different producers.
Although my theory of running an engine, a whole vehicle really in, so it will run in this mentioned easy- and smoothness, is questionable, but for me it takes a whole lot more miles of riding than the suggested ones of the manufacturers.
Wisedrum
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I believe (and so do the engine builders I know) that combustion pressure is necessary to seat the rings. You can't get combustion pressure without aggressive throttle opening. If you are familiar with the CBR 1000RR (2008 and on) oil burning issue I think the problem engines did not seat the rings. Mine never burned a drop of oil because it was broken in correctly. This does not mean you should run wide open for a 1/4 mile but rather apply goodly amount of throttle then back off and engine break (which sucks oil to the top end). With today's manufacturing tolerances break in is not even necessary in some engines. Most race engines are broken in on the dyno with a number of strong pulls to seat the rings. Heat is the main issue and so avoiding extended high RPM running and steady state RPM high speed cruising is needed until several head cycles have occurred. I also change the oil before the 600 mile service and always have because I want the metal shavings out after the aggressive break in method I use. Honda years ago placed RPM / speed restrictions in their break in instructions; not anymore.
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JimTT, the local shop owner that I know who previously worked for Honda Racing Corporation (he was a technician for Miguel Duhamel) told me much of the same. It seems that engine manufacturing is so different now than it was a number of decades ago. His take was basically to make sure that you got the engine good and warm and then don't be afraid of revving it up into higher RPMs while accelerating, but to still avoid the steady state RPMs for extended periods of time.
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Recommendations from two different Honda mechanics regarding breaking in the motor "Ride it like you normally do, but remember that you have new tires, so you may want to take it a little easy for the first 100 miles--for the tires, not for the engine" (quote is paraphrased)
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Guth, I know some of those HRC mechanics of Yore, my race engine background is more in the car world but anyway Break in is a topic that is only slightly less debated than oil. The bottom line for me is that all the engine builders in my experience follow the combustion pressure path.
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Yeah, people can take in all of this info, but ultimately we each need to do whatever we feel the most comfortable with. I share the information that has been presented to me by someone who I greatly respect so that others have a similar "data point" to consider and nothing more.
Personally, I'd guess that as advancements in manufacturing technology continue on with time it will probably matter less and less how the break-in is carried out.
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Agreed- let the engine warm up is 100% most important- no point in a quickly expanding aluminum piston ground into a slower expanding cyl block,..
But once it's warm for a 5 min ride or so- have at it in short bursts. Let er scrub burnish for a nice even fit.
People that are afraid to get on the throttle for fear of hurting an engine have no idea about said engine. Same goes for cars, bikes, etc.
It is no lie to say that a gingerly low rpm driven vehicle is worse than a spiritedly driven one as long as it is allowed to warm up and oil change not neglected.
Don't believe? Even on Ebay in the past few months there was a CB1100 cyl head and pistons-pictures from a supposed 3k mile bike being parted out- combustion chambers, pistons crowns, valve pockets- all covered in black carbon. Not ideal.
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I was always taught to break them in just how you intend to ride the, you don't have to baby them, and you don't need to abuse them. just ride them.
I do like to warm them up for a minute or two when cold, and I do change the oil on time, other than that I don't worry much about it. My ST and CB were both zero miles purchased new. I have put every mile on both. the St has just over 93,000 the CB just under 35,000. neither uses or burns oil. Also neither has been over 6,000 rpms in their life.
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93k? Holy crap
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Thats nothing on an ST lol