CB1100 2017 - Break in the engine

[mrbi0_imp]

Hi everyone,

After leaving my "old" '14 CB110 at a dealer and bringing the new 2017, I just wanted to give some feedback on the engine break in:

1. Normal break-in, not going above 3500RPM for the first 500km and avoiding free ways and traffic. You can read it in other posts and a lot of info online on how to proper break-in an engine
2. At 80km a slight scare when I noticed what seemed to be a very small oil driping in the engine. Turn out to be nothing (although I'm still very vigilant) and, suposely, due to the products applied to the engine that melted with the heat
3. First 100-200Km the engine was always crazy hot not dissipading as I was used to in the '14 CB. 2h outside, stopped, at around 15º and still some heat in the engine. Also normal, don't freak out, after 100-200Km started dissipading normally
4. Noticed that the fuel consumption has been around 4.9L / 100Km (around 48 MPG) which is the lower consumption I've managed to do with the '14 (and I admit that I tend to speed...) - with the engine so new and barely out of break-in I expect it to consume even lower than this

Let me know if you have any questions

[dwcurton_imp]

If you don't plan on keeping it any longer than you kept the 2014, then just ride the heck out of it for a day, change the oil. Ride hard for 2 or 3 days, change the oil again. Then you're done.
Oh yeah, congrats on the new bike. Hope you enjoy it!!

[mrbi0_imp]

If you don't plan on keeping it any longer than you kept the 2014, then just ride the heck out of it for a day, change the oil. Ride hard for 2 or 3 days, change the oil again. Then you're done.
Oh yeah, congrats on the new bike. Hope you enjoy it!!

I'm doing it by the book and I plan on having this one for many many years...

(maybe a little side project with a CX500 ou CX650, but this one stays )

[Snakie66_imp]

Hi, picked up my new 2017 CB1100 yesterday. My Honda dealer never mentioned anything about a break in period (oops), just that 1st service was 600 miles or 6 months which ever comes first. Emmm ...,,,,, less than 3500 rpms (oops) I couldnt stop riding it the past 2 days and just love that 1st gear climb up and down in town .... Iv'e managed to keep the speed down below 80 mph today in the country (130kmh ...ishhh). It's a bike that really brings a big smile to my face and I find it a real joy to ride .... hope Iv'e not done any damage.

[the Ferret]

Snakie.. Welcome to the forum. PLease drop into new members and introduce yourself. I don't think you could hurt this engine unless you ran it without oil lol

[Macduff_imp]

The 2017 UK (E Code version) handbook is remarkedly light touch for running in . It advises for 1st 300 miles to avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration, avoid hard braking , rapid downshifts and to ride conservatively. No mention of adhering to reduce rpm limits. My dealer when handing mine over advised to stick to 5~6K Rpm maximum for the 1st 600 miles and to vary engine speed and gears used as much as possible during same period, seems to be more based on their views than Honda's formal requirements. My previous recent new bike purchases all had far more rigorous running in procedures in both RPM limits and miles to be covered before RPM ranges used could be increased (none were Hondas) .

[Cormanus]

That minimalist approach to running in has been the case since 2010.

[Nortoon_imp]

Riding no higher than 3500 RPM during break-in isn't hard on the CB1100. No matter what speed I am riding at it always seems to be loafing between 2500 and 3500 RPM.

[chync_imp]

There are 2 schools of thought on this from what I have read online. One is to take it easy as recommended in the manuals. The concern some have with this method is glazing on the cylinder walls that could prevent the rings from seating properly. The other school seems to be a methodical rev-ing of the engine up to a couple thousand RPM's short of the red line and easing the engine back down. Then repeating this a few times in between letting the engine cool down a bit. The risk of this method is running the engine too hard and seizing the engine. Both methods are intended to seat the rings properly. Both can go wrong. I have tried both methods on different new bikes. I tried the more aggressive method on my CB1100. I'm at 20k miles and it has never burned oil, has had consistent gas mileage, and plenty of power. It has been put on a dyno so I have a measurement on the power (93hp with mods). If you dig around online there are some knowledgeable techs that have written some detailed articles on all of it and I found it to be interesting to read. I would stick to the OEM procedure unless you are willing to do some research. You do have to wade through the anecdotal content to find the articles written by people with real experience. One of the best articles was written by a guy that broke in two motorcycles using both methods and then disassembled the engine heads to examine the rings and valves to see the difference. I wish I could find that article again but a quick search didn't come up for me. It was his article that inspired me to use the more aggressive method. But it was a method with some specific guidelines and procedures.

[PowerDubs_imp]

On a modern machine, I really don't think it matters whatsoever. Just keep the oil changed and ride it however you want.


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