Stupid question

[VLJ_imp]

During today's ride I noticed that my rear tire is down to bare cords. It wasn't that way when I left the house, but midway through the ride, yep, there it was, an inch-wide band of exposed silver running nearly the entire diameter of the tire. The front tire shows almost no wear, but it's extremely cupped. I'll go ahead and replace both tires.

Two questions...

First, what is the most durable tire available for this bike? I'm talking a high-mileage touring tire. I don't care about sticky tires here. I just want the things to last as long as possible.

Now, here's the stupid question. This 2017 CB1100 EX is my first bike with inner tubes. When replacing the tires, should I also always replace the inner tubes, or is this unnecessary?

[SportsterDoc]

During today's ride I noticed that my rear tire is down to bare cords. It wasn't that way when I left the house, but midway through the ride, yep, there it was, an inch-wide band of exposed silver running nearly the entire diameter of the tire. The front tire shows almost no wear, but it's extremely cupped. I'll go ahead and replace both tires.

Two questions...

First, what is the most durable tire available for this bike? I'm talking a high-mileage touring tire. I don't care about sticky tires here. I just want the things to last as long as possible.

Now, here's the stupid question. This 2017 CB1100 EX is my first bike with inner tubes. When replacing the tires, should I also always replace the inner tubes, or is this unnecessary?

I did that at about 5,000 miles on my 1200 Sportster, coming back from a canyon ride. Dunlop K591s on the 1200 Sport were VERY soft.

How many miles on yours?

During today's ride I noticed that my rear tire is down to bare cords. It wasn't that way when I left the house, but midway through the ride, yep, there it was, an inch-wide band of exposed silver running nearly the entire diameter of the tire. The front tire shows almost no wear, but it's extremely cupped. I'll go ahead and replace both tires.

Two questions...

First, what is the most durable tire available for this bike? I'm talking a high-mileage touring tire. I don't care about sticky tires here. I just want the things to last as long as possible.

Now, here's the stupid question. This 2017 CB1100 EX is my first bike with inner tubes. When replacing the tires, should I also always replace the inner tubes, or is this unnecessary?

Not necessary unless old/high mileage or pinched, however, I would replace with the VERY best you can find, then save the old as spares.

During today's ride I noticed that my rear tire is down to bare cords. It wasn't that way when I left the house, but midway through the ride, yep, there it was, an inch-wide band of exposed silver running nearly the entire diameter of the tire. The front tire shows almost no wear, but it's extremely cupped. I'll go ahead and replace both tires.

Two questions...

First, what is the most durable tire available for this bike? I'm talking a high-mileage touring tire. I don't care about sticky tires here. I just want the things to last as long as possible.

Now, here's the stupid question. This 2017 CB1100 EX is my first bike with inner tubes. When replacing the tires, should I also always replace the inner tubes, or is this unnecessary?

Dunno. I replaced the stock Dunlops with Pirelli scrambler tires at ~10,500 miles. They were great for sandy, rocky rough shoulders along Nevada 2 lane highways.

Judging from the first 2,000 miles on them, they probably would have good 8,000 to 10,000.

[VLJ_imp]

6,100 miles on these tires, which are the original OEM set.

[pekingduck]

Cupping is almost always a function of low tire pressure. More cupping on the left side of the tire is normal in right-hand drive countries.
Unless there is clear damage to the tube (a patch, a fold, or damage during installation), I would not replace it on mine.
A brand new tube is an un-tested tube. Even so, it might not be a bad idea to install a new one and have the old one as a spare on trips. Many bike shops don't even carry tubes any more.

[VLJ_imp]

If anything, my tires are always over-inflated. From Day One I've kept this set at the factory spec, which is usually way too high. The front is cupping relatively evenly on both sides. Very little loss of tread depth, but severe cupping. The rear is toast.

Anyone here have any recommendations of a set of high-mileage tires in this bike's oddball sizing?

[the Ferret]

I get 11.5K out of Michelin PR4's, NOT down to cords but to wear bars. Next would be PR3's at about 9-10.5K. The Stock Dunlop went 8500. I think they stick pretty well too.

Not sure you can find the right sizes in them though. I'm running a 120 front (110 stock) and a 160 rear (140 stock). I would run stock sizes if available.

[Houtman_imp]

I always put new valves in when replacing tubeless tiers and I would ALSO put a new tube in when replacing a tubed tire.
As another member said buy the BEST tube you can get and not a cheap Chinese one.
Cheap rubber is never good !

[VLJ_imp]

Yep, I've gotten great mileage out of PR4s, which also stuck plenty well enough, as well. Kinda heavy steering, though. Not the fastest turn-in, and extremely pricey. Still, I'd go with those again, if I can find them in the right sizes.

[Cormanus]

Can you get PR4s for the CB1100? I thought not, even if you were after oversize tyres. Will they be OK with tubes?

I've got really good mileage from PR3s and will continue to use them while I can get them to fit.

[Lord Popgun]

According to this you can use tubes in tubeless tires, but should downgrade the load rating. And you should always replace the tube as the rubber (and valve stem) hardens with heat cycles. Since the valve stem should be replaced everytime, a tube should be replaced. YMMV

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/mo...-101-guide

The Michelin site shows only 17inch PR4 tires. https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/motor...oad-4.html