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When I work on mechanical tachs or speedos, I pull the tip of the needle over the resting stop peg and the needle will settle into a "negative" area. I then mark the spot with tape, or take a photo, so I can replace it to the proper spot before winding it up and putting it back over the peg stop. These gauges use spinning magnets, and a fine wire spring to dampen the motion, and the preload is necessary.
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these dont have the stops most newer dont
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pekingduck, could you clarify that, please? The only stops in the gauges on my bike are at maximum revs and speed. What are you marking? If it's pushing back against the stop, isn't that where you put it when you replace it? Or does a spring unwind, when you take the needle off?
Happily, the ants are gone, I didn't remove the needles and the gauges work ok. Your play makes me very pleased I didn't remove them!
Sometimes the road not travelled is best left that way. (Jane Goodall)
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(02-03-2026, 07:52 PM)Cormanus Wrote: pekingduck, could you clarify that, please? The only stops in the gauges on my bike are at maximum revs and speed. What are you marking? If it's pushing back against the stop, isn't that where you put it when you replace it? Or does a spring unwind, when you take the needle off?
Happily, the ants are gone, I didn't remove the needles and the gauges work ok. Your play makes me very pleased I didn't remove them!
That was for older mechanical tachs or speedos, and some newer electronic ones that have the stops at zero. There's a little "preload" on the internal spring that returns the needle at zero at rest. Does not apply to CB1100s.
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Thank you.
Sometimes the road not travelled is best left that way. (Jane Goodall)