EOT meter for OEM oil cooler

[CIP57_imp]

On my water cooled N1k the fans where set from the factory to come on @ 210. After the ECU flash the # was reduced to 200. Just FYI general highway riding @ 60mph with temps in the low 80's the bike will run 170-175. Because the CB runs hotter 190 would seem to be a good # for the fan to kick on.

[Elipten_imp]

Well I am interested in your project and data, do please keep posting data. Also please post the details of the fan and temperature sensor.

I do not see how this can hurt other than maybe reducing air flow if fan fails. Question is how well does it help.

However I would suggest not letting bike idle for so long as a warm up for the good of your bike.

Keep going, as projects like this help all that are interested.

Facts and data can never hurt.

[the Ferret]

Well I am interested in your project and data, do please keep posting data. Also please post the details of the fan and temperature sensor.

I do not see how this can hurt other than maybe reducing air flow if fan fails. Question is how well does it help.

However I would suggest not letting bike idle for so long as a warm up for the good of your bike.

Keep going, as projects like this help all that are interested.

Facts and data can never hurt.

That was my only point, don't let the bike sit there and idle for 10 to 15 minutes. The project will return some valuable info for the owner, and may return some benefit on engine longevity if he would end up keeping the bike long enough and ride enough miles.

Even with a fan I would not let my bike idle for extended periods of time. When I get in heavy traffic or stopped, as were were at the rally by construction, I turn the bike off so that those plugs are not firing producing heat for which there is no air movement to carry the heat away. Once traffic ahead starts to move I will fire it up again and get air moving thru the oil cooler and over the cylinder fins.

I do believe the manufacturers know what they are doing and I know of no over heating issues with air cooled bikes except on some Harley Davidson models with the rear V cylinder when not moving, and I believe there was a modification from the factory for that, and if memory serves me it involved shutting down of the rear cylinder. Maybe someone else can remember.

Even Harleys and BMW's partial addition of water cooling is directed at the heads where the spark plugs are firing and not directed to the cylinder walls.

by all means continue with your project and report your findings.

[aschem_imp]

My Buell has a factory fan and sounds like a vacuum when it kicks on. Stays on even after I turn off bike until it reaches a certain temperature.

[dsinned_imp]

I DO plan to continue working on this project. I'm a retired electronics component engineer, and in the Navy I was an Electrician, so these kind of DIY projects interest me and within my skills set. Again, this is my second air cooled bike to be modified with an EOC fan. The first was a complete success. However, I ran into a lot of "resistance" to the idea (on another forum). A lot of guys expressed sentiments of basically, "if it ain't broken, don't fix it", or words to the effect that I have too much idle time on my hands. Guilty as charged! :-))

As to aschem comment, that is one of the secondary benefits of a fan, i.e. keep the fan running for a while after turning off the ignition to aid in engine cool down and helping to prevent heat soak.

[Lord Popgun]

On the CB, running the fan after the engine is off is only going to cool the oil in the cooler.

The results of your experiments are interesting though and I too am waiting to see what you come up with. Knowledge is a good thing

[dsinned_imp]

Elipten, here are the details of the Spal fan I'm using: http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/produc...7-A101-46S

And here are the details of the American Volt thermostatic temp sensor: http://www.amazon.com/American-Volt-Elec...FTVRZEKRDG

And the On/Off handlebar rocker switch: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Univers...Z6MSH2X4WX
popgun, that's true, but the fan running after shutdown also moves a lot of air behind the cooler in and around the front of the engine. Not a lot, but enough to aid in cooling down the heads and exhaust ports. E.g., on my other bike with a fan, I am able to touch the header pipes without burning my fingers within minutes after engine shutdown. This is because of the rapid cool down effect of the fan. This comes in handy when its time to change the oil and filter.

[Elipten_imp]

Thanks

I love it when people post the details to the supplies for projects like this. Makes it easier.

I have a Spal fan mod to do on my BMW one of these winters as the BMW part is junk and not for exposure to the elements.

When you get bored after this project us old K-bike owners could use a smart electronics man to develop a ECU replacement for our bikes! Lol

[Lord Popgun]

Elipten, here are the details of the Spal fan I'm using: http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/produc...7-A101-46S

And here are the details of the American Volt thermostatic temp sensor: http://www.amazon.com/American-Volt-Elec...FTVRZEKRDG

And the On/Off handlebar rocker switch: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Univers...Z6MSH2X4WX
popgun, that's true, but the fan running after shutdown also moves a lot of air behind the cooler in and around the front of the engine. Not a lot, but enough to aid in cooling down the heads and exhaust ports. E.g., on my other bike with a fan, I am able to touch the header pipes without burning my fingers within minutes after engine shutdown. This is because of the rapid cool down effect of the fan. This comes in handy when its time to change the oil and filter.

Yes you are right. I didn't think about that. Should have though. Lots of times I park my bike in the garage and put a fan, sometimes 3, on it to aid in cooling.
Ferret, I've read of HD shutting down the rear cylinder too. Plus, you can get the 'parade fan' option from HD or from aftermarket sources.
Ferret, I've read of HD shutting down the rear cylinder too. Plus, you can get the 'parade fan' option from HD or from aftermarket sources.

[dsinned_imp]

Today, i went for a longer ride of about 60 miles, including another up hill climb 7 miles long on a different road from yesterday's ride. The OAT was in the mid 70s, little to no wind today. This time the highest EOC temp reached was 205F, 20 degrees less than yesterday. I think it was a bit cooler outside today compared to yesterday's ride.

The CB1100 has a much less stressed engine than my Triumph Bonneville. The low end torque and gearing is much better too for slow paced rides. The CB can cruise almost effortlessly from 2000 to 3000 rpm. These factors contribute to a cooler running engine with less heat load on the oil cooler.

I'm almost now of the opinion, having gotten use to my new bike, that mounting a pusher fan for riding under relatively "pleasant" conditions is unnecessary.

Nevertheless, I decided to be more conservative and try a smaller, low power pusher fan that I obtained for another project but never used. It only draws about 10 watts with an unspecified air flow rating probably around 100 cfm. This fan is super quiet, comparable to a fan used in a desktop computer, although of more rugged construction. It is in a 120 mm square frame with seven paddle blades about 4.5" in diameter and overall depth of about 32 mm. It's quite cheap too, only $19 on Amazon, made by a Chinese company named GooFit.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Univers...Z6MSH2X4WX

I was able to mount this fan in the center of the oil cooler taking up only 1/3rd of the total frontal area. It was much easier to mount as well and fits the front of the cooler perfectly. It has a much lower profile than the Spal fan and is made of black plastic so it blends in with the CB1100's OEM oil cooler quite well.

I wired the fan to the 12V battery using the Trail Tech temp meter as its controller for automatic On/Off operation. Also, I moved the meter to the center of the handlebar directly behind the ignition switch. Btw, the meter can also display battery voltage as an added perk!

I haven't road tested the fan yet - hopefully tomorrow - but programmed the Trail Tech's On/Off set point to 150F, so that I can make sure it works. Ideally, the optimum set point should be higher, say 180F to reduce the duty cycle of the fan.

Frankly, I don't think this less powerful fan has enough air flow to make much difference. However, the 5.2" Spal fan is quite possibly too much fan and puts a rather heavy load on the battery. I now believe Spal's 4" pusher fan might be about right for this application. Unfortunately, I only have a 4" puller and its not reversible. Spal's pusher costs $45 on ebay. At this point, it will be very easy to swap fans if and when necessary to complete this project.