Staintune

[misterprofessionality]

Dubs totally agree with all that except for a bike like the CB 1100 which comes with artificially low factory ECU set rev and speed limitations.

if MP is never going to exceed 90 anyway, a lowering of gearing would give him the least expensive and most bang for his bucks. Doubt he could lower the gearing enough to worry about the factory set top speed limiter.

Looks like I'll have a minty Staintune off my '13 to sell. PM me for details.

Hey lower the gearing for under $100 and buy Capos used Staintune and you could have the cats meow for acceleration and sound.

win win

way ahead of you on that
edit: looks like I wasn't ahead enough. i've been scooped.

For actual real world all day fun- a simple sprocket change will make the bike accelerate quicker, in all gears, at all rpm. The RPM cruising on the highway will be a little higher if that matters. I find the '14 6-speed to be fine with that.

I would not change the muffler or pipe looking for power- but a Staintune sounds and looks fantastic. I love mine.

Other than that- save your money towards good riding gear, a riding class or the book 'proficient motorcycling' and suspension if you want to improve the way the bike rides.

rgr. you're on record. i'm going to get it quoted.

[SportsterDoc]

Re PowerDubs post 65:
Another of my frequent hiking areas is close to 8,000 feet elevation.
The two lane up to it is 6% to 8% grade from ~6,000 feet to ~7,000 feet.
Rolling on from ~70 MPH in 6th, the bike does not want to do much more than 95, but will readily pull 110 in 4th.

Gearing can be done by shifting, changing the rear sprocket (would not want to go smaller on the front) or even running smaller circumference tires. Gearing importance is on a par with HP.

For cruising at 80 (or slightly over) on Interstate 15 in Utah, north of St George (80 MPH speed limit), I am completely satisfied with stock 2014 standard gearing.

[Retsel_imp]

Dubs totally agree with all that except for a bike like the CB 1100 which comes with artificially low factory ECU set rev and speed limitations.

if MP is never going to exceed 90 anyway, a lowering of gearing would give him the least expensive and most bang for his bucks. Doubt he could lower the gearing enough to worry about the factory set top speed limiter.

Looks like I'll have a minty Staintune off my '13 to sell. PM me for details.

Hey lower the gearing for under $100 and buy Capos used Staintune and you could have the cats meow for acceleration and sound.

win win

way ahead of you on that
edit: looks like I wasn't ahead enough. i've been scooped.

For actual real world all day fun- a simple sprocket change will make the bike accelerate quicker, in all gears, at all rpm. The RPM cruising on the highway will be a little higher if that matters. I find the '14 6-speed to be fine with that.

I would not change the muffler or pipe looking for power- but a Staintune sounds and looks fantastic. I love mine.

Other than that- save your money towards good riding gear, a riding class or the book 'proficient motorcycling' and suspension if you want to improve the way the bike rides.

rgr. you're on record. i'm going to get it quoted.

way ahead of you on that
edit: looks like I wasn't ahead enough. i've been scooped.

For actual real world all day fun- a simple sprocket change will make the bike accelerate quicker, in all gears, at all rpm. The RPM cruising on the highway will be a little higher if that matters. I find the '14 6-speed to be fine with that.

I would not change the muffler or pipe looking for power- but a Staintune sounds and looks fantastic. I love mine.

Other than that- save your money towards good riding gear, a riding class or the book 'proficient motorcycling' and suspension if you want to improve the way the bike rides.

rgr. you're on record. i'm going to get it quoted. I'll have to agree with PD. I have added a Straintune, had Guhl re-map the ECU, and added two teeth to the rear sprocket. I am happy with each. Each provided it's own benifits however, the two teeth to the rear made the most enjoyable performance difference, for me. Reading your riding style, you may also desire to drop a tooth on the front sprocket as well. It would be very inexpensive and easily reversed, if you decide you don't like it.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

[LongRanger_imp]

Probably the easiest and healthiest way to improve the bike's performance is to lose some weight, either your's or the bike's. Assuming the bike's 86 hp and 540 lb curb weight, losing 20 lbs is equivalent to gaining about 3.1 hp, which is a 3.7% increase. A pipe and a diet can work wonders!

[misterprofessionality]

Probably the easiest and healthiest way to improve the bike's performance is to lose some weight, either your's or the bike's. Assuming the bike's 86 hp and 540 lb curb weight, losing 20 lbs is equivalent to gaining about 3.1 hp, which is a 3.7% increase. A pipe and a diet can work wonders!

well, i'm looking to do more than that over time. I want smaller fenders, a smaller pipe, smaller lighter mirrors, and i've heard some hearsay about how LED head lamp assemblies are much lighter than the standard.