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(04-10-2015, 09:15 AM)Pterodactyl_imp Wrote: (04-10-2015, 12:20 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: White dog, Is it possible the axle coller is swapped from Left side to right? They are not the same on the part diagram. Just guessing, but strange things happen.
Anyway, I'd let the dealer sort it out. But here is a link to parts diagrams so you can look for yourself:
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/...ke-caliper
To look at the axle hardware, change assembly to Rear Wheel. G'day 'Dog,
Did you check out Popgun's suggestion? The collars are different thickness left to right. In any case I take it you bought the bike new and under warranty. As Popgun rightly says it should be the dealer's problem, not yours.
Cheers mate
(04-10-2015, 02:27 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: Here is my last disc, you can see the discoloring and the degree to which it warped.
Whoa, that is serious heat damage! I too have a bent pedal. Differs from yours in that it is bent from the base of the pedal stem, at the attachment collar. You may note that I didn't claim to have bent it myself, and I didnt. I have never had a problem with foot on brake syndrome (unlike foot in mouth syndrome) but I had a right side low side and the pedal was bent slightly inboard. I left it that way as, unless you know, it looks standard.
Cheers G'day 'Dog,
Did you check out Popgun's suggestion? The collars are different thickness left to right. In any case I take it you bought the bike new and under warranty. As Popgun rightly says it should be the dealer's problem, not yours.
Cheers mate
(04-10-2015, 02:27 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: Here is my last disc, you can see the discoloring and the degree to which it warped.
Whoa, that is serious heat damage! I too have a bent pedal. Differs from yours in that it is bent from the base of the pedal stem, at the attachment collar. You may note that I didn't claim to have bent it myself, and I didnt. I have never had a problem with foot on brake syndrome (unlike foot in mouth syndrome) but I had a right side low side and the pedal was bent slightly inboard. I left it that way as, unless you know, it looks standard.
Cheers
Yes, I will rely on the dealer to make things right--on his dime. I just want to know why there is a groove in my rotor with such low miles. The rotor on a brand new CB1100 had no groove.
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That is because it got heated up and warped while riding. When it cups like you see in my picture it starts to wear against the caliper body. They don't come warped from the factory. If it did you would have noticed the poor slow speed coasting, like moving it out of the garage etc. The dealer should have noted it while moving it around the dealership, like off the crate. Very poor form on their part if it came that way and they didn't catch it. They are selling, but I'm not buying. Moot point since it will be covered. 
If you got a chance to look at the back side I'm pretty sure you'd see the discoloration. I was not able to inspect the back side of the first disc, just the out board side and the edge (both edges toasted the black paint off into a white ash).
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(04-10-2015, 10:56 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: That is because it got heated up and warped while riding. When it cups like you see in my picture it starts to wear against the caliper body. They don't come warped from the factory. If it did you would have noticed the poor slow speed coasting, like moving it out of the garage etc. The dealer should have noted it while moving it around the dealership, like off the crate. Very poor form on their part if it came that way and they didn't catch it. They are selling, but I'm not buying. Moot point since it will be covered.
If you got a chance to look at the back side I'm pretty sure you'd see the discoloration. I was not able to inspect the back side of the first disc, just the out board side and the edge (both edges toasted the black paint off into a white ash).
Interesting. So I should expect to see warping on my rotor when it is removed. That may not happen as I gather the shop will have to send the rotor back to Honda as a damaged part in order to get paid. Makes me wonder how my rotor got grooved so quickly.
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It starts to hit hard metal on the caliper (I was down on the ground with a flash light, trying to noodle out where she was touching). Metal on metal will groove like that. I checked the caliper on the second install and it did not seem worse for the wear. Go figure.
I am a bit concerned about the pads though. I use the front brakes only about 90% of the time so I don't see the rear pads suffering much wear for a long time.
I've got a MAP gas torch, so I"ve beeb tempted to see if some heat applied on the back side of the warp would make it go straight.
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Honda should provide a rotor that will withstand heat. These are so thin I can see where heat would adversely affect them. Hope my next one lasts more than 500 miles!
I use my front brake practically all the time and only apply light pressure to the rear brake pedal. At the time I took the cycle into the shop on Friday, the rear brake was not doing any braking. I told the service guy about this but I'm not sure it registered with him. I trust the head mechanic more than the service writers. HM has been wrenching for 40 years and he is the "go to guy" for off-the-wall repairs such as this.
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Get yourself down to NASCAR and put one of those race car rotors on your bike!! Looks like they get pretty hot without warping. And it looks cool glowing in the night races.
What kind of rotors do MotoGP bikes use?
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(04-10-2015, 12:20 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: White dog, Is it possible the axle coller is swapped from Left side to right? They are not the same on the part diagram. Just guessing, but strange things happen.
Anyway, I'd let the dealer sort it out. But here is a link to parts diagrams so you can look for yourself:
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/...ke-caliper
To look at the axle hardware, change assembly to Rear Wheel.
What is the difference in the collars? Are the in fact interchangeable? Would that cause the calipher to be closer to the rotor? The guy at Dillon's did not have them in stock so he could not do a side by side comparison. 
(04-10-2015, 02:19 PM)Rboe_imp Wrote: It starts to hit hard metal on the caliper (I was down on the ground with a flash light, trying to noodle out where she was touching). Metal on metal will groove like that. I checked the caliper on the second install and it did not seem worse for the wear. Go figure.
I am a bit concerned about the pads though. I use the front brakes only about 90% of the time so I don't see the rear pads suffering much wear for a long time.
I've got a MAP gas torch, so I"ve beeb tempted to see if some heat applied on the back side of the warp would make it go straight.
Maybe the calipher is made of a harder metal than the rotor?
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I don't know the actual difference in the spacers as I have not had the wheel off yet. But they do have different part numbers. But spacers do cause problems on bikes if they are not in the right places.
But in looking at your picture for a long time, and looking at my bike, I'm thinking Rboe is right and your rotor warped.
Lexus rotors have been known to have this problem as they are not that thick either. Of course a car is much heavier that a bike.
If you look close at your bike, you will see in normal operation there is not much space between the rotor and that piece by the copper colored line on your rotor. A warped rotor could easily rub there.
I'm certainly no expert, but considering most braking force is on the front, due to weight shifting, etc. I am betting that you were dragging the rear brake. Or maybe the caliper hung up on the pins or piston stuck or something and that made the pads rub and warp the rotor. A good mechanic should be able to figure it out.
When I got my bike it was real obvious that the Harley type engineer boots I had were not going to work for me. I had to buy a different style that would work with the small levers (and still look good  ) I had to adjust the pedal height on both shifter and brake too.
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The rotor seems to be as thick as other bike rotors so I think quality wise they are right up there. I had warped front rotors on the Quota (it had a reputation for warping them - mostly because I think guys rode very aggressively on them - for a big adventure bide that thing handled, I had fun on mine!). I bought the bike with warped rotors and replaced them. Not fun as you had to heat up the bolts to break loose the loctite they used.
I "think" my problems arose when I did use the brake I could not feel if my boot was not on the pedal anymore. But that is just a guess on my part. Since I"ve taken pains to get the pedal out of the way (I still use it from time to time) the problem has not repeated.
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(04-10-2015, 02:30 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: I gotta thank you for posting that picture as it got me motivated to pull out the tablesaw, general collector of crap in the shop. On the tablesaw, forgotten, was a Bosch Laminate Trimmer I picked up for a song and stashed. So it's like Christmas! I even have a job for it on my latest project.
Here you can see how I've bent back the CB1100 brake pedal a bit, the other shot is from the Griso (stock, it has not been modified).
Someday I'd like to put a second bend in the pedal so the foot lever is parallel to the foot peg, but so far it seems to be working just fine. For my feet (not big, but I do have a 36" inseam) it simply sticks out too far.
How did you bend the brake lever? Did you have to heat it? Is the metal soft enough to bend more than what you did to yours?
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