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Oiling chain
#51
(03-25-2015, 01:27 PM)Motogeezer1949_imp Wrote: Check out HikerToo's post on page 1 of this thread. For the newest of o-ring technology chains, WD or kerosene are excellent cleaners, just make sure to re-lube thoroughly to keep the o-rings pliable Wink

Thanks mate. You are right, Hiker's post is interesting and informative.

Cheers
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#52
(08-07-2014, 07:25 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote: Brake cleaner to clean and Honda Pro Chain Lube for lube. About every 1,000 miles or so. I have over 13k miles on my high-hp CBR's chain and it's still fine.

Anywhere where there's metal-to-metal contact there needs to be lubricant. The chain itself is internally, permanently lubricated, so there's no reason to worry about that, all you need to worry about is the sprocket to chain interface and the outside links/rivets.

Anywhere there is lubricant exposed to the elements, dust and dirt will accumulate and moisture will eventually break-down the lubricant as well as accumulate along with the dust and dirt, so those areas must be periodically cleaned of the dust and dirt, or accelerated wear of the parts will occur (both mechanical and corrosive).

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner? Smile
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#53
(07-13-2016, 12:41 AM)Riko_imp Wrote:
(08-07-2014, 07:25 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote: Brake cleaner to clean and Honda Pro Chain Lube for lube. About every 1,000 miles or so. I have over 13k miles on my high-hp CBR's chain and it's still fine.

Anywhere where there's metal-to-metal contact there needs to be lubricant. The chain itself is internally, permanently lubricated, so there's no reason to worry about that, all you need to worry about is the sprocket to chain interface and the outside links/rivets.

Anywhere there is lubricant exposed to the elements, dust and dirt will accumulate and moisture will eventually break-down the lubricant as well as accumulate along with the dust and dirt, so those areas must be periodically cleaned of the dust and dirt, or accelerated wear of the parts will occur (both mechanical and corrosive).

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner? Smile

I assume your chain has been holding up strong ever since using brake cleaner? Smile
After doing a search for chains and master links it appears that chain technology and complexity has evolved and gotten more expensive since I last had a bike with a chain.The master links now need a riveting tool to install rather than a simple pair of mc toolkit supplied pliers to install the long ago used clip to secure the master link,which worked perfectly fine by the way.Still at 48 bucks for a chain and 9 bucks for the tool,if you don't need an excuse to get out of the house and escape to the sanctuary of the garage for extended periods of chain maintenance and cleaning,why bother.Just lube it regular with spray can and ride,use the time saved to ride.Riding in the rain is non labor intensive chain cleaning method does not push dirt into to nooks and crannies and just needs a little lube when done with the ride. my 2 cents.
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#54
A quick wipedown with kerosene, a wipe with a rag, and a spritz of whatever leftover aerosol chain lube I have on the shelf seems to work fine for me. Every 1000 miles or so seems about right. I try not to overthink it. The chain and sprockets WILL wear out at some point and will need to be replaced - it's unavoidable, like death and taxes.
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#55
(07-13-2016, 04:40 AM)LongRanger_imp Wrote: A quick wipedown with kerosene, a wipe with a rag, and a spritz of whatever leftover aerosol chain lube I have on the shelf seems to work fine for me. Every 1000 miles or so seems about right. I try not to overthink it. The chain and sprockets WILL wear out at some point and will need to be replaced - it's unavoidable, like death and taxes.

unlike death, you can cheat taxes, its not impossible Smile even its for a happy few, its nut that unavoidable
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#56
endless loop, sorta like the shampoo bottle instructions - wash,rinse,repeat.
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#57
Whilst cleaning my bike earlier this week I noticed the chain needed a small adjustment (out about 1/4"). I could not remember the last time it was adjusted, well over a year ago I'm sure. Modern O ring chains and and chain lubes are remarkable. Chain maintenance used to be such an annoyance but not any longer and I find the reasoning for shaft drives and belts less and less convincing. Add in the ease of final gearing changes with a chain plus less weight over a shaft system and chain drive looks better than ever.
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#58
I agree. The amount of attention required by a quality sealed chain is a small fraction of what it was with the standard (i.e. unsealed) chains in 'ye olden days. Those old chains had to stay continuously soaked in thick, heavy lubricants, which was both time consuming and messy. Since the lube didn't generally stay in the rollers (unless you lubed every 100 miles or so), chain adjustment and replacement intervals were a lot shorter.

Most of the time when I hear someone complaining about chain final drives it's either people who haven't used a modern sealed chain, or (surprisingly) those that do have a sealed chain, but continue to maintain them like the old standard chains. Huh
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