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(04-28-2016, 02:07 AM)ryanschillinger_imp Wrote: I tried my pretty stout strap type filter wrench and felt like I was going to break it. The filter pliers ended up getting it loose after trying a bunch of different angles and slipping. Even with the teeth that dig into the filter. I'll try to post a pic but the mounting surface on the engine is actually gouged from the filter being cranked on so tight. The filter housing was tightened into the block!
[url=http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thumpythumpthumper/media/59F9B551-7096-4C97-8138-DD5F302B8A44_zpsjhplvmb7.jpg.html]![[Image: dbaa9c737f2a3c9ee63f3808a10e5cfc.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201604/dbaa9c737f2a3c9ee63f3808a10e5cfc.jpg) To me, it looks like they failed to machine (or mask during paint) the mating surface for the o-ring.
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I'll try to see if the other picture was in better focus. But no. The mounting area is smooth, only gouged where the filter body was bottomed out.
Here maybe looks better. It was already dark when I snapped these so they aren't the best pics.
Looking at it I'm tempted to contact Honda and see what they have to say. I don't ever remember having that tough a time removing a filter. And I used to do oil changes all day for work...
[url=http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/thumpythumpthumper/media/2A5BC943-E355-4134-8829-4AA72C46333B_zps4kqnynly.jpg.html]
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im a pipefitter. my filter gets removed with channel locks and tightened with my meat wrench!
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Makes you wonder what other things they may have tightened too much or too little during assembly?
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(05-12-2013, 09:34 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: A couple, myself included put in 4 qts and the oil is over the upper hash mark and at the top of the window. I find this interesting...and a bit confusing 
We are all assuming the oil bottles are exactly 1 qt, or exactly 1 Gal. That might explain the slight difference?
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(04-30-2013, 08:15 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: I, personally, never go by the specified amount. I put in oil, and go by the dipstick, then run, wait a time, then recheck. One reason is I always pre-oil the filter so there is already some oil in there.
Plus, you can never get ALL the oil out of pretty much any engine.
Always works well on cars and bikes. On 4 strokes outboards though it is very easy to over fill so you have to know the proper technique. Yes that's correct and a good policy. Also that image where the paint is gouged, that's just plain wrong. That surface should have been machined smooth.
Another question, what is wrong with buying an oil filter wrench?; you can get one at any decent auto parts store. All these pliers and strap wrenches, they slip, damage your bike, damage your skin. I use the Honda tool but the same size can be had almost anywhere filter wrenches are sold. Just take your new filter to the auto parts store and match it up before doing the work.
Dang on this site I have seen more guys have problems with oil filters and oil...
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(05-05-2016, 12:42 PM)Ulvetanna_imp Wrote: (04-30-2013, 08:15 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: I, personally, never go by the specified amount. I put in oil, and go by the dipstick, then run, wait a time, then recheck. One reason is I always pre-oil the filter so there is already some oil in there.
Plus, you can never get ALL the oil out of pretty much any engine.
Always works well on cars and bikes. On 4 strokes outboards though it is very easy to over fill so you have to know the proper technique. Yes that's correct and a good policy. Also that image where the paint is gouged, that's just plain wrong. That surface should have been machined smooth.
Another question, what is wrong with buying an oil filter wrench?; you can get one at any decent auto parts store. All these pliers and strap wrenches, they slip, damage your bike, damage your skin. I use the Honda tool but the same size can be had almost anywhere filter wrenches are sold. Just take your new filter to the auto parts store and match it up before doing the work.
Dang on this site I have seen more guys have problems with oil filters and oil...
Thought that's what motorcycle forums were for ...
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(05-05-2016, 02:19 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: (05-05-2016, 12:42 PM)Ulvetanna_imp Wrote: (04-30-2013, 08:15 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: I, personally, never go by the specified amount. I put in oil, and go by the dipstick, then run, wait a time, then recheck. One reason is I always pre-oil the filter so there is already some oil in there.
Plus, you can never get ALL the oil out of pretty much any engine.
Always works well on cars and bikes. On 4 strokes outboards though it is very easy to over fill so you have to know the proper technique. Yes that's correct and a good policy. Also that image where the paint is gouged, that's just plain wrong. That surface should have been machined smooth.
Another question, what is wrong with buying an oil filter wrench?; you can get one at any decent auto parts store. All these pliers and strap wrenches, they slip, damage your bike, damage your skin. I use the Honda tool but the same size can be had almost anywhere filter wrenches are sold. Just take your new filter to the auto parts store and match it up before doing the work.
Dang on this site I have seen more guys have problems with oil filters and oil...
Thought that's what motorcycle forums were for ...
Thought that's what motorcycle forums were for ... I think you are right.
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Changed my oil and filter today at 601 miles.Honda oil and filter,old filter came off very easily,torqued the new one to the spec in this thread,actually to 4lbs less as it seemed excessively tight to me(19 lbs,where did that number come from?,i did 15 lbs and think it's too tight),the drain plug also broke loose very easily,reinstalled and torqued to 22lbs as per earlier in this thread.Filled the crankcase with 4 qts minus about 1 ounce(going by whats left in the bottom of the qt container),ran it and checked=right on the top line.Took a 10 or 15 mile ride and checked again,still on the top line.I'm used to doing oil filters by hand plus another 1/4 turn when they get snug,think i'll do it that way next time.For those of you looking for an oil filter wrench/socket i have a Vector part number 17009,fits the filter perfect and has a square hole for a 3/8 inch drive,turn the front wheel sideways and use a small extension and everything clears nicely,to remove after installing and torqueing new filter use a long screwdriver from the right side of the bike and pry on the edge of the filter socket,it has to pop off cockeyed to clear the exhaust.Also installed my Honda engine guards today,14 mm sockets for the upper end and 8mm for the lower outside chromed bolt head and 10 mm for the black inside nut.The Honda installation directions i downloaded(didn't come in the box)have the sizes listed as 10mm flange bolt(upper) and lower 6 mm flange nut and bolt.This may be the shaft size of the bolts 9didn't measure it)but is not the socket sizes that fit the bolt and nut heads.Torqued to spec.Lubed chain,and checked for loose nuts and bolts,didn't find any.
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I wonder if K&N makes a filter for this bike. They have a 17 mm (IIRC) nut welded onto the end so you can use a socket and 1/2" drive breaker.
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