Posts: 23,403
Threads: 697
Likes Received: 482 in 220 posts
Likes Given: 597
Joined: Apr 2025
there have been recent instances as well, (apparently not in this case) where the red switch was very touchy and would fire when wiggled or quit when wiggled. I think Flynrider was one that had that issue. Someone was working on a side of the road work around, but i never heard if they were successful or not.
Posts: 1,286
Threads: 33
Likes Received: 40 in 20 posts
Likes Given: 6
Joined: Oct 2017
On my 2014, if the run/stop is not in run position, the headlight goes out, but the starter will not operate.
Th w/bl wire from fuse C feeds the run/stop (and powers the BAS), which feeds the bl wire to (a) start button and (b) engine relay. The coil in the engine relay completes its circuit to ground via the r/o wire to the bank angle sensor.
Posts: 704
Threads: 27
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2015
yeah, mine too. run stop button also cycles the ecu start program, so pretty sure you won't have that problem on a 2014. my next step was going to be starter fluid. I always try that before I start pulling plugs and such. I just didn't think the throttle had any part in cranking with fuel injection. I had tried cycling the ecu program several times to shoot more fuel in there, and that may be what actually did it. I just really lack the understanding of fuel injection starting to know what did it. oh, I also put duct tape over the air intake of the air box like a make shift "choke", so that too may have helped.
Posts: 1,286
Threads: 33
Likes Received: 40 in 20 posts
Likes Given: 6
Joined: Oct 2017
It may have been a fuel issue, but checking a plug is quick and easy.
1 and 4 are quite accessible with a 14 mm (9/16") deep socket.
Put the plug back in the boot, ground the prong and hit the start button.
If you have a strong spark, then you know it is a fuel issue (assuming piston & rings are intact and valves close).
Based upon your previous comments, I am sure that you knew that, but figured I would mention it for the possible benefit of others.
Probably never happen again, but my guess was too much fuel and that opening the throttle allowed more air to flow.
The throttle body is mechanically opened by the throttle cable, excluding operation of IACV for idle.
The timing of the injector pulse and duration is controlled by the ECM, based upon sensor input.
Posts: 912
Threads: 19
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: May 2015
Sure is refreshing to be a member of a forum where you receive assistance when you request it.
Posts: 2,590
Threads: 28
Likes Received: 6 in 2 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2013
(01-14-2018, 11:13 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: there have been recent instances as well, (apparently not in this case) where the red switch was very touchy and would fire when wiggled or quit when wiggled. I think Flynrider was one that had that issue. Someone was working on a side of the road work around, but i never heard if they were successful or not.
I had that issue on the side of the road in backwoods Utah.
If the problem is in the kill switch there are some telltale signs when the key is turned on :
1. Fuel pump doesn't cycle
2. Check engine light doesn't cycle.
3. Oil temp idiot light does not go off.
4. Starter won't spin.
I have never had a problem like this when swapping batteries.
Another possibility is that the Throttle Position Sensor was somehow involved. Opening the throttle to the stop and releasing recalibrates the TPS to the ECU. I'm wondering if the battery power was off long enough for the ECU to lose track of the TPS. Just a wild guess.
Posts: 16,119
Threads: 342
Likes Received: 667 in 366 posts
Likes Given: 777
Joined: Apr 2025
(01-14-2018, 12:09 PM)4 Paws_imp Wrote: Sure is refreshing to be a member of a forum where you receive assistance when you request it.
I'm a bit biased, I know, but it's a very good forum like that. If you haven't already, check out egleaves' assitance to a fellow member ...
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12052
Posts: 704
Threads: 27
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2015
thank you SportsterDoc ! that is what I was wondering, what the throttle does mechanically.
Posts: 3,872
Threads: 186
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Dec 2013
(01-14-2018, 10:47 AM)jimgl3_imp Wrote: ok, it started! battery was full tilt. spinning the motor but no fire from plugs or whatever. now, i know it's not carburetors, it's fuel injection, but for jollies I twisted the throttle wide open and the darn thing fired right up. makes no sense to me. I admit i'm completely ignorant about fuel injection. I cut my teeth on carbs.
I had this same problem on a EFI Ford F-150 P/U. The starter was turning the motor but no start. The problem was the throttle position sensor malfunctioning. By holding the throttle wide open, the TPS is over ridden and the motor started. The truck started every time after this but I had the TPS replaced anyway. Problem never occured again.
Posts: 1,286
Threads: 33
Likes Received: 40 in 20 posts
Likes Given: 6
Joined: Oct 2017
(01-15-2018, 12:10 AM)redbirds_imp Wrote: (01-14-2018, 10:47 AM)jimgl3_imp Wrote: ok, it started! battery was full tilt. spinning the motor but no fire from plugs or whatever. now, i know it's not carburetors, it's fuel injection, but for jollies I twisted the throttle wide open and the darn thing fired right up. makes no sense to me. I admit i'm completely ignorant about fuel injection. I cut my teeth on carbs.
I had this same problem on a EFI Ford F-150 P/U. The starter was turning the motor but no start. The problem was the throttle position sensor malfunctioning. By holding the throttle wide open, the TPS is over ridden and the motor started. The truck started every time after this but I had the TPS replaced anyway. Problem never occured again.
May have been TPS or poor connection to it.
May be good to unplug TPS, clean connector contacts and reconnect.