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(05-07-2018, 06:25 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote: My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.
Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.
However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.
YMMV
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(05-07-2018, 06:34 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: (05-07-2018, 06:25 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote: My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.
Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.
However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.
YMMV
Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.
However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.
YMMV Interesting, I had not thought of that small twist on the procedure outlined in the Shop Manual, but it makes sense while still staying within the spirit of the process. I will try it next oil change.
(05-07-2018, 06:33 AM)tuareg_imp Wrote: (05-07-2018, 06:25 AM)2017EX_imp Wrote: My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.
I totally agree, 2017EX. removing the oil filler cap helps. I was trying to point out the potential risk of the diesel "treatment".
I totally agree, 2017EX. removing the oil filler cap helps. I was trying to point out the potential risk of the diesel "treatment". No worries taureg, and I think there are more potential negatives than positives to the diesel flush as well. The Forum is doing exactly what it is supposed to do, exchange ideas and see which ones are good and which ones are probably not. I am glad Cormanus brought it up to discuss. I am also glad SportsterDoc brought up his small twist on the procedure too.
