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Those tiny stripes of paint are put on there by the assembly line workers to indicate they have actioned/serviced that particular nut, bolt or whatever.
Since we got off onto a tool subject, way back in the late 50's/early 60's when I was into hot rods, engine swapping, etc., I bought a complete set of Craftsman mechanics tools from Sears. They came in a metal carrying tool box with a lift-out tray and had just about everything for everyday use; sockets; open ends; box ends; breaker bars - you name it. I still have all those tools today and not one has ever failed.
In a round figure, the set cost about $35.00 which was a lot of money then.
In this day of metrics, they don't get that much use now, but whenever I need them, they are always there.
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Like lots of tools, one torque wrench often proves not to be enough. The rear hub nut on my Ducati needs to be tightened to 170 ft-lbs, which requires a pretty big torque wrench. In contrast, lots of fasteners on bikes have torque specs in inch-lbs. Lug nuts on cars and SUVs often call for a value between 85 and 100 ft-lbs. A lot of home mechanics might get by with 2 torque wrenches to cover the ranges they are most likely to encounter. I have 3, mostly because of that crazy tight nut on the hub of my Ducati. It is also helpful to buy wrenches scaled in newton-meters as well as foot-pounds, since most things not built in the US will will give newton-meter specs. I have conversion scales on my tool box, but the wrenches that have them stamped on are convenient.
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(10-01-2018, 09:54 PM)KiowaEagle_imp Wrote: In this case, with a $35 torque wrench I believe the error factor originally when it's new is similar if not the same. It is factory calibrated after all. The difference is that with usage it probably looses that calibration at a faster rate. But like I said I'm only going to use it once or twice a year. I'm 61, if I use it twice a year until I'm 75 that is only 28 uses. A mechanic could use one easily that much in a month. Plus I could buy another one in that time and still spend less and it's still better than using a standard wrench with your "that seems tight enough" idea.
I guess you are right. There must be a mid price range for the casual user, a high price range for the frequent user, and cheap as peanuts price range where is better to spend it on beer and hand tight everything (not necesarily at the same time).
Anyway: as someone else has mentioned, torque becomes more critical on aluminium or softer metals. With steel bolt&nut, usualy the max force you can apply with a wrench for that size -without extensions- will be about right, as the tools are dimensioned for their typical use (not too accurate, but "rule of thumb")
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Regarding the white substance, this may be interesting
https://www.finishing.com/596/62.shtml
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(10-02-2018, 02:11 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: Regarding the white substance, this may be interesting
https://www.finishing.com/596/62.shtml
Thanks for that link. I've seen external corrosion like that before on crated motorcycles that are shipped in crates with plastic covers. They are stacked and bundled together on deck, not inside those containers. The sea air can really corrode untreated stuff, and the plastic covers act like little sauna tents when the sun beats on them. The ones with cardboard covers fare better.
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When I started in the automation business in 1985, it was common to ship automated systems by sea to Europe and Asia
We had enough issues with tooling steel (A2 & even D2) corroding, that we began insisting on air shipment.
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(10-02-2018, 02:11 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: Regarding the white substance, this may be interesting
https://www.finishing.com/596/62.shtml
But, don't the bolts on the CB have a "black oxide" coating and not a cadmium coating? I don't now if the info on the link still applies.
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I wrench a lot. I have a lift in my garage, currently a fleet of 4 motorcycles, 6 cars.
As much as elitists would have you believe- there is nothing wrong with most harbor freight tools to get (many) job done. Especially considering the coupons you can use. Just hold your breath when you walk in the store.
Want a 'better' brand? Craig's List or yard sales can yield great tools at pennies on the dollar.
Last input for now- rubber mallet is a horrible and ineffective bit of advice.
If you want to move an object- apply some force, break a nut- without the metal on metal damage of a sledge hammer- learn the joy of a 'dead blow hammer'. Once I learned of these many years ago- they are invaluable and I now own numerous in various sizes and weights.
I recently used a little 1lb dead blow to loosen the cam caps while doing engine work. Amusing- but perfect tool for the job.
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(10-04-2018, 10:07 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: I wrench a lot. I have a lift in my garage, currently a fleet of 4 motorcycles, 6 cars.
As much as elitists would have you believe- there is nothing wrong with most harbor freight tools to get (many) job done. Especially considering the coupons you can use. Just hold your breath when you walk in the store.
Want a 'better' brand? Craig's List or yard sales can yield great tools at pennies on the dollar.
Last input for now- rubber mallet is a horrible and ineffective bit of advice.
If you want to move an object- apply some force, break a nut- without the metal on metal damage of a sledge hammer- learn the joy of a 'dead blow hammer'. Once I learned of these many years ago- they are invaluable and I now own numerous in various sizes and weights.
I recently used a little 1lb dead blow to loosen the cam caps while doing engine work. Amusing- but perfect tool for the job.
A dead blow hammer is an effective tool. However, using a mallet on a breaker bar has been VERY effective for me for over 55 years of wrenching.
Often I use a mallet directly on a box wrench to pop a fastener loose to save my elbow. There are times when a dead blow hammer would be overkill.
(10-02-2018, 04:36 PM)jtopiso_imp Wrote: (10-02-2018, 02:11 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: Regarding the white substance, this may be interesting
https://www.finishing.com/596/62.shtml
But, don't the bolts on the CB have a "black oxide" coating and not a cadmium coating? I don't now if the info on the link still applies.
I do not know if the CB fasteners are cad or chrome or ???
If cad, the link applies. Here are some plating options.
https://www.fastenermart.com/understandi...ishes.html
Black oxide is black, common on drill bits and impact sockets.
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(10-04-2018, 10:07 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: I wrench a lot. I have a lift in my garage, currently a fleet of 4 motorcycles, 6 cars.
As much as elitists would have you believe- there is nothing wrong with most harbor freight tools to get (many) job done. Especially considering the coupons you can use. Just hold your breath when you walk in the store.
Want a 'better' brand? Craig's List or yard sales can yield great tools at pennies on the dollar.
Last input for now- rubber mallet is a horrible and ineffective bit of advice.
If you want to move an object- apply some force, break a nut- without the metal on metal damage of a sledge hammer- learn the joy of a 'dead blow hammer'. Once I learned of these many years ago- they are invaluable and I now own numerous in various sizes and weights.
I recently used a little 1lb dead blow to loosen the cam caps while doing engine work. Amusing- but perfect tool for the job.
Josh, we would like to see all 4 bikes=pics, please  . Thanks
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