Posts: 1,955
Threads: 126
Likes Received: 157 in 64 posts
Likes Given: 1
Joined: Apr 2025
far be it for me to complain about Honda bolting things together with extreme care, but I just tried to install my new frame sliders only to discover that i am physically incapable of moving the bolts, even a tiny fraction of an inch. These are the same mounting points used for a lot of engine guards, so I'm sure some of you have encountered this before.
Any tips out there on how to get these bolts to move? i mean it, my ratchet just disintegrated in my hand trying to turn this bolt. there must be a trick to this.
Posts: 1,286
Threads: 33
Likes Received: 40 in 20 posts
Likes Given: 6
Joined: Oct 2017
6 point socket
Breaker bar
Rubber mallet
Posts: 1,955
Threads: 126
Likes Received: 157 in 64 posts
Likes Given: 1
Joined: Apr 2025
ahha...so spending more money on more expensive tools....sigh...why does that always turn out to be the answer? guess i'm waiting a month to install these then.
Posts: 16,118
Threads: 342
Likes Received: 665 in 365 posts
Likes Given: 775
Joined: Apr 2025
Did you break the socket handle? I have broken one on a particularly tough nut. Otherwise, the normal handle augmented in length by a decent length of galvanised water pipe will do the trick. You just need a bit of leverage. Otherwise, the breaker bar is not too expensive and, provided you get the right size head, will use your normal sockets. It's not a bad investment on the tool front.
Posts: 111
Threads: 11
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Aug 2017
I just ran up against the same wall yesterday. I bought frame sliders from another forum member, went to install them and discovered that those bolts are really on there tight! I didn’t feel like digging out my breaker bar at the moment, but I’ll do it tomorrow with confidence that it’s the right tool for the job.
I guess what I mean to say is you won’t regret owning a breaking bar if you want to spend more time wrenching. It’s practically required equipment and they’re worth their weight in gold when you need one. Consider it an investment.
Posts: 402
Threads: 50
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Feb 2014
I was going to suggest a battery-operated impact wrench with about 1000 foot-pounds torqueing ability, but I guess you wouldn't want to spend that kind of money.
Posts: 1,286
Threads: 33
Likes Received: 40 in 20 posts
Likes Given: 6
Joined: Oct 2017
Tools I suggested are very basic must have type...constituting poor man's impact...more effective than leverage.
See directions for this VW axle temoval tool
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?...C-C10-7045
Posts: 1,670
Threads: 41
Likes Received: 137 in 65 posts
Likes Given: 34
Joined: Apr 2014
(09-30-2018, 12:47 PM)egleaves_imp Wrote: I just ran up against the same wall yesterday. I bought frame sliders from another forum member, went to install them and discovered that those bolts are really on there tight! I didn’t feel like digging out my breaker bar at the moment, but I’ll do it tomorrow with confidence that it’s the right tool for the job.
I guess what I mean to say is you won’t regret owning a breaking bar if you want to spend more time wrenching. It’s practically required equipment and they’re worth their weight in gold when you need one. Consider it an investment.
The front engine mount bolts were very tight when I took them off my bike, partly due to the constant heat cycles that turn any condensation into a chalky white residue.
The 4 nuts are partly obscured by the header, but I was able to put a box end wrench in place and hit it sharply with a plastic mallet, easily breaking the nuts loose with a loud creak.
Trying to turn the bolt head is the wrong way - too much energy lost on the twisting bolt. Always turn the nut, not the bolt.
Posts: 2,590
Threads: 28
Likes Received: 6 in 2 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2013
I used a 2 ft. breaker bar. Leverage is your friend.
I usually don't like to spend a lot on tools that I won't use very often, but a breaker bar is relatively inexpensive and is very useful on stubborn bolts. I also use mine for loosening/tightening the rear axle, since it tends to spin if you only turn the nut side.
Posts: 145
Threads: 7
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: May 2017
(09-30-2018, 12:21 PM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: far be it for me to complain about Honda bolting things together with extreme care, but I just tried to install my new frame sliders only to discover that i am physically incapable of moving the bolts, even a tiny fraction of an inch. These are the same mounting points used for a lot of engine guards, so I'm sure some of you have encountered this before.
Any tips out there on how to get these bolts to move? i mean it, my ratchet just disintegrated in my hand trying to turn this bolt. there must be a trick to this.
first step is penetrating oil--I give the nut and bolt a good soaking with PB Blaster and let sit for awhile (ideally overnight) and that usually does the trick. breaker bar or rubber mallet only if needed, but I prefer to use as little brute force (and new tools) as necessary
