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Any interest in cams?
and the tension builds!
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Ugh. Looks like I am starting over-

Checked step #1, .15 +/- on two of the intake cyls.

Measured last night on the stock cams, adjusted shims to bring in closer to spec.

Just checked on the new cams- .20 slides right in.

Might be manufacture differences, might be reduced base circle.

Time to do all the measurements and adjustments over again.


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Did you swap buckets?

Found it a bit confusing with the markings on the sprockets, same are used for in and exhaust, they do line up ok as long as you use the correct markings, the "outside ones" i think line up in line with the cyl head top and form a straight line.
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Buckets all stayed in each original spot.

They must have ground the base circle on the cams. Easier way to get more lift with less welding.

I just need to remeasure everything, take the cams back out, reshim, reinstall, remeasure....

I should have asked them ahead of time, my own fault.


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For anyone watching, please don’t take my measurements as gospel. I will readily admit that I don’t adjust valves very often, and certainly not recently.

The last time I adjusted valves was on a quad that I put in an aftermarket cam, but it was a retail premade cam that they had already done all the testing on to a sure that it was safe. All I had to do was drop it in and adjust to factory spec.

This is a whole new ball of wax as no one has ever done this before on this engine.

I am doing this numerous times over and over again trying to make sure that I am accurate and safe, and that might be biting me in the ass – because I may be putting too much pressure on the feeler gauge.

After doing this numerous times in the last few days I have discovered you can fit quite a range of feeler gauge in unless you have the exact idea of what the proper drag should be.

That being said, it is my understanding that valves slightly loose will be safe, if only slightly more noisy.

Valves that are too tight could possibly make a bit more high-end horse power, but may also never close fully, may burn up, and never dissipate the heat to the valve seat.

It is also my understanding that most engines will tighten up the valves as the miles pass- so it appears my best interest is to set them slightly looser if I can, which will not only be more safe, but cooler, and longer intervals.

Regardless – I will let you know as I progress. I never claimed to be an expert on any of this, just a little more adventurous than most I suppose.


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Certainly much more adventurous than me, I wouldn’t think of attempting anything like this and can fairly confidently say I never will. But I’m enjoying reading about it and learning a lot so thanks for sharing.
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(07-30-2018, 10:26 AM)KiowaEagle_imp Wrote: Certainly much more adventurous than me, I wouldn’t think of attempting anything like this and can fairly confidently say I never will. But I’m enjoying reading about it and learning a lot so thanks for sharing.

Same here !
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Josh how would you verify for yourselves if the cams are what you ordered, i mean; roundness, eccentricity, and all the other variables, v blocks or so?

Thanks for confirming the buckets were well looked after and also interesting to see what the measurements are after the new cams have run in after some time.

Don't think you are the only one with some problems, electronics and radio is an ongoing journey in finding faults and needs some very expensive equipment to find a problem with a 2$ part, sometimes seems not worth it and this is when you are lucky to have friends with the right test gear to overcome these problems but mostly it's just experience and knowing where to look, tricks help too!

max
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Most of this is my being the first.

I should not have spent any time or effort measuring the stock cams.

Also having never adjusted valves on this engine before I should not have bought tapered gauges- I should have bought angled gauges.

Now that I have measured numerous times I am intentionally bending the feelers so I don’t rub the head or have drag from flex.

If everything works out OK, people will be able to buy these cams and do a single measure and adjust and be back on the road (after adjusting fueling)...

So far so good as far as anything critical.


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(07-30-2018, 11:13 AM)max_imp Wrote: Josh how would you verify for yourselves if the cams are what you ordered, i mean; roundness, eccentricity, and all the other variables, v blocks or so?

Thanks for confirming the buckets were well looked after and also interesting to see what the measurements are after the new cams have run in after some time.

Don't think you are the only one with some problems, electronics and radio is an ongoing journey in finding faults and needs some very expensive equipment to find a problem with a 2$ part, sometimes seems not worth it and this is when you are lucky to have friends with the right test gear to overcome these problems but mostly it's just experience and knowing where to look, tricks help too!

max


Basically I am putting trust into a cam company that has decades of experience. Told them what the engine is, they measured the stock cams and told me what they could do.




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Ive been riding 45 years now and have owned at least 30 bikes from motocross to street. I have always been happy with a properly tuned stocker. Love to read about you horse power junkies with too much time and money on your hands.
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