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Any interest in cams?
Being anal I’m checking valve clearance before ripping the stock cams out.

Just started. Cyl 1 intake .15 go, .18 nogo.

Cyl 3 intake right valve good at .15, cyl 3 left valve is allowing .18 to slide in. Going to have to adjust that.




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Cyl 2 & 4 exhaust all four seem to be .26


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Cyl 4 intake left valve letting .18 slide in


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Yes can’t wait
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Josh could you have a look at the size of the shims and what range if possible.
We have to order some at some stage and it would be handy if we knew they are all in the let say 0.25 to 0.32 mm range so we would have some at hand and the bike can be put together the same day.

Thanks and reading/looking with interest; max
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Hi Max,

Yea- that is the next step. Just about to remove the stock cams.

I bought a set of shims from Hotcams.

I am sure that most of the kit is sizes I will not need, I am just hoping that the ones I need I will have enough for by swapping around. The kit comes with three of each size.

I am anal enough that I have gone over and measured three times now.

The first time I was just checking clearances for fun, but then I decided to start from scratch and scribble everything down.

Problem is even from trying to be exact in lining up the timing marks, there is variance there as well as how my pressure is in pushing the gauges and so not quite an exact science but this is what I came up with after the last two rounds –

[Image: 1f9bd8a94a0986ec4ef67fdb1fe48a19.jpg]


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Dammit- ran into a delay.

In prepping for this I took a quick glance at a few threads. Saw a mention of using a screwdriver on the tensioner instead of the special tool.

No way to fit a screw driver in the small space between the airbox.

Just went back and looked at the pic on that thread- it’s not a CB1100 pictured.

Ugh.


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Made a ‘tool’ out of scrap. Now back to work. Smile

[Image: dcdab09604434bfac44f459171101fab.jpg]
Cam caps- the reason why god invented a 1lb deadblow!

[Image: 5c21e1ae4d987ad66e67bd50a3027e9a.jpg]


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Stock cams out. Yea- from what I can see the exhaust cam can swap into the intake spot for even timing of someone wanted to do that.

[Image: 7f9346e2658e83af867a34838a8eda14.jpg]
[Image: d93526936cf13ac118551c11c908350e.jpg]


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That’s enough for today- time to spend some time with my wife.

[Image: ba78b125797ce9ec3d7c599094cc81ec.jpg]


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(07-28-2018, 06:36 AM)max_imp Wrote: Josh could you have a look at the size of the shims and what range if possible.
We have to order some at some stage and it would be handy if we knew they are all in the let say 0.25 to 0.32 mm range so we would have some at hand and the bike can be put together the same day.

Thanks and reading/looking with interest; max


Hi Max,

Here is my two time measurements of stock valve clearances before disassembly and the factory shims for each-

[Image: afba442dfd83c74f84aa4dfb89ce9739.jpg]
[Image: e6014825d9ab34a1cdbefa01a1bb84ee.jpg]

And the kit I bought-

[Image: 196a797433199010fbb8d735ce6dd9f2.jpg]
[Image: e962a86754490dc596e2df0190cd02a0.jpg]




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Forgot to say those are the stamped sizes of the stock shims, I have not yet broke out the micrometer to measure for possible wear.


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Also just noticed the manual says the factory shams are available in .025 mm, and this kit is intervals of .05 mm. So although they will fit it is not ideal.


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Thanks Josh, that is a very complete explanation of what's going on under the hood ( buckets ).
Took some time to take in all the information you have so carefully provided and prepares us for what to expect once the cams are out, the plan was to order shims in advance as you may have gathered.

Actually would be interesting to see if the shims themselves are worn but i would expect that the wear takes place on the actual cam and bucket surface since those are the bits that end up shiny and polished if all goes well and the oil does it's all important work .

Yes, i did notice the measurements that you took with regard to the shim sizes and wondered if they can step them up by one thousand's of a millimeter to get it right in the middle of the tolerance even after the gear is run in after some time, that is an interesting detail, also makes me wonder what system they have to determine the required shim for each valve and how to measure all those gaps, i hope they have a happy robot to do that ''koni-chi wa" .

Guess it's not so bad in practice since 0.005 mm steps you from one end of the range to the other and is within the 0.006 spec. and you should be good for 100.000 k or so all things beiing equal.

Only started to get an idea about how to work with camshafts when you started this thread, it gave me much more insight of what's important and made me think about it all and i thank you for that; max
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Factory shims are .025mm

The hotcam kit is .05mm

By swapping around what I’ve got, I can stay in spec, although not to my ideal.

I’d like to error on slightly looser instead of slightly tighter, but no biggie. I’ll rip her back down eventually and do another check.



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I am happy to report that the cams are properly timed and bolted in, and I have turn the engine over by hand several times and nothing appears to make any contact anywhere or feel like it’s binding.

I am about to do the valve clearance check again just to be thorough.


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