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Engine turns over but no star after sitting few days
#21
Looking at the DTC chart, most sensor issues failsafe to normal operation, however,
29-1 for the IACV (incl poor connection) symptoms are hard to start
7-1 or 7-2 (incl poor connection) hard to start at low temperature

Let's see some voltages and spark check before going any further.
(02-01-2019, 11:54 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: Dang, I missed that! Worship

Easy to do when the keys are flying!
(02-01-2019, 11:55 AM)Honda_Fan_imp Wrote: I have a battery tester will try it tomorrow.

Good

The winter I spent at McGuire AFB my new 1967 CB160 was parked on a base street, no cover, rain and snow and never had an issue starting.

Riding in heavy rain was a totally different issue. Soaked air filters don't pass much air!
One more thought for the evening:

If no spark or weak spark, most EFI systems will interrupt the fuel pump when it does not start, but it might still be flooded. That is standard ECM program on Sportsters, 2007 up. So, fuel smell may be minimal.

I seriously flooded my 2003 Sportster when it was new, by dropping it on a fire road.
The bank angle sensor did not function, even though it was flat on its side and the motor was running until I could get to the kill switch...even with a carb!

I killed it and it only took a few seconds to turn off the petcock, but after it was righted, it was not even close to starting. Fortunately I was on a hilltop with a good down grade. A push and a hop in second gear turned the motor over well, but it took 5-10 seconds before it finally fired.
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#22
(02-01-2019, 11:03 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote:
(02-01-2019, 10:46 AM)Honda_Fan_imp Wrote: I’ll get a voltage meter and see if battery holds charge. It maybe an original battery from 2014 in there
(02-01-2019, 10:45 AM)suhawk305_imp Wrote: As far as the kill switch goes, checkout Flynrider’s experience with his:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11611

It’s not it I hear fuel pump prime and engine does crank with starter just doesn’t fire up.
(02-01-2019, 10:43 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Yes it can be push started but it shouldn't have to be.

After you got gas, it ran fine?

After I filled it up with premium it started and ran fine day after. Now two days later I’m having this issue

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)
Just in case it is not the battery ...

How cold was it overnight prior to your tank refill, and how warm did the bike get during that day prior to the refill? If the differential is enough, condensation could have formed prior to the refill.

In addition, premium gas does not guarantee low or no water - by no means. The way it typically works is all fuel is stored the same way for all grades underground (usually). Those storage tanks [always] contain water from the accumulation of condensation. When the water level in the storage tanks get to a certain level, the water has to be purged/withdrawn from the tanks. Good quality fuel services will do this religiously as part of their services to the station. If the station does not pay the premium, the check and/or service is less frequent. One more, but unrelated tidbit: All grades start with the same 87 octane base stock. Proprietary additives make-up the premium blends.
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#23
So done will certainly correct me if I’m wrong, but, as I recall it, nearly all reports of failed batteries here have reported a battery that goes all the way from being able to start the bike to not being able to turn it over in a single bound.
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#24
(02-01-2019, 01:24 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: So done will certainly correct me if I’m wrong, but, as I recall it, nearly all reports of failed batteries here have reported a battery that goes all the way from being able to start the bike to not being able to turn it over in a single bound.

Hey Cormanus:

(+1) My experience with my Virago 1100.
(+2) My experience with past cars.

In all cases, the air temperature dropped to cool/cold levels.
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#25
(02-01-2019, 01:24 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: So done will certainly correct me if I’m wrong, but, as I recall it, nearly all reports of failed batteries here have reported a battery that goes all the way from being able to start the bike to not being able to turn it over in a single bound.

Typical with batterties for quite a few years now. If a cell fails, I would be surprised for it to crank, but without voltages and looking at spark, we can only offer a few educated guesses.

There is a very good chance of a fuel issue, but wise to have a process of elimination.

Since no solenoid chatter was reported, voltage may be fine.

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1896417

Not doing well with copy and paste on Ipad, but the first part of this link may be of interest.
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#26
Yes, doc, I’ve no argument with the process you’re following. As usual, it’s logical and methodical.

Is this the bit of the article you wanted?

from http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1896417 Wrote:When the starter button is pressed (key on, off/run switch in run mode), voltage is sent to the coil of the starter solenoid. If the system voltage is normal, the starter engages.

If the system voltage is low, due to low battery or faulty battery cables (the frame/motor end of the negative cable is a common issue), then the voltage may be sufficient to close the coil, but when it closes the high amperage contacts from the battery to the starter, the low voltage has a compound effect:

1. Lower voltage is a challenge to the starter turning over the motor and

2. Lower voltage results in a higher amp draw for the motor to try to pull the same wattage.

For example, a 1.4 KW starter draws 109 amps at 12.8 volts, 111 amps at 12.6 volts , 113 at 12.4 volts, 133 at 10.5 volts, etc.

In a low voltage condition, once the starter tries to draw enough amps to turn over the motor, the voltage drop is so excessive that the coil cannot remain energized and it opens the high amperage contacts to the starter. If the starter button is held, the voltage recovers (after the coil drops out) enough for the coil to again close and the cycle repeats until the voltage drop will not allow the coil to close. This is solenoid chattering.
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#27
Thanks, Cormanus, my wife's Ipad (or my fingers?) can be difficult trying to select.
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#28
Has anyone on the Forum experienced solenoid chatter that is typical with most vehicles under these conditions?

I am just wondering if these days Honda intervenes to avert that too.
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#29
(02-01-2019, 04:36 PM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: Thanks, Cormanus, my wife's Ipad (or my fingers?) can be difficult trying to select.

Blame the iPad. I do. Wink
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#30
Left it alone overnight came to the garage this morning battery tested fully charged. Flip the switch and it fired right up. Also temperature today is near 30 so maybe that helped too. Anyway I count this one as a fluke for until it reappears again.
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