Trailer loading question.

[the Ferret]

I put a 2x4 laying wide side down on the ground under the back edge of the ramp, which changes the angle a bit. I had requested a longer tailgate when I ordered the trailer, but unfortunately it was delivered with the standard tail gate.

[ride4now_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

[DGShannon_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

[ride4now_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?

[redbirds_imp]

I keep a couple of adjustable jack stands in my trailer for the rare occasion when I need load when not attached to my truck.

[DGShannon_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?
As I said... "They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading." Or, as Redbird says, you can just use jack stands.

[emptysea]

What do you think?

I measured out my plan for the 'lift'... 2x10's. Do you think 2 boards (4 inches high) or 3 boards (6 inches high) are needed. Per my original note, I want to lower the ramp angle on my trailer and this seems the easiest and safest way to do it.
My trailer is back in Florida so I can't 'test' it until next week. Your thoughts?










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I don't know... 4 inches might be enough.









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This post is what happens when the angel on my shoulder is really Metallyguitarded in disguse.

[ride4now_imp]

It works!!

Here's what the incline looks like before I rode over the 'ramp' with the truck..


Here's the 'ramp'...



Here's the incline after riding up the ramp...much less severe of an angle.



Success!!!!



Of course it's not tied down to transport, and I have to install my wheel chock, but it works. You just leave the bike in gear and no problem. The biggest issue is backing down... you have to feather the clutch in 1st because you can't rely on the front wheel braking...as the wight shifts it'll slide. So you have to put power to the rear very lightly. It worked well!




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[Cormanus]

Nice work, ride4now. Simple but effective.

[ride4now_imp]

Nice work, ride4now. Simple but effective.

Thanks... I thought about going with the extra 2", and I still might. But this seemed to work fine. I can keep my feet on the 'ground' the whole time.