08-29-2020, 10:49 PM
Speaking of oil change intervals, let me fan the flames of controversy yet again, because I can.
Engine break-in.
There are two camps:
1) Ride it like you stole it from day one
2) Follow the manufacturers kinder, gentler approach
Either camp can debate when is the right time for the first oil change. If you follow the book, Honda tells us to change oil (Initial) after only 600 miles (1000km), or six months. Then every 4K miles thereafter.
That is actually the first time I recall the manufacturer recommending the initial change that early.
No matter. Here is what I do. I am 1) and 2) plus follow THIS recommendation, whether my owner's manual says to or not. If I buy new, I do the kinder-gentler break in for 600 miles. Car, bike, or whatever. Early shifts, mixed driving, through all the gears, no droning on the highway at constant speed. Then, change the oil/filter. With ONLY dino juice. NO SYNTHETIC at this time. Even if the manufacturer does not call for this early change, I do it anyway (see Honda car recommendation below). After that short initial period, which might only be a weekend or two, and the initial change, then 2) ride it like you stole it. The reason for dino juice at initial change is to allow the motor to break in thoroughly with rings seating to cylinder walls, and the rest of the motor (and transmission in the bike case) to properly seat and bed-in. If you switch to synthetic too early (at the initial change), then you could delay the motor break-in, and not gain the full horsepower the motor can make. Once that initial change is made, I will feel free to take it to the redline whenever it suits me, which might be every ride.
After the SECOND oil change at about 4K, I will switch to full synthetic and remain there for life (or the duration of my ownership).
I got my CB used with 5900 miles, in pristine condition, with already some aftermarket coin spent, for a 50% cost savings letting the original owner suffer the upfront massive depreciation on the bike (more so on the farkles). Then, I changed the oil (as described in this thread) at the onset of my ownership to establish a known baseline under my service record keeping. It doesn't matter what was claimed, I cannot verify what the break-in procedure was that was used.
Now I am free to rev the snot out of the motor as I please and enjoy.
I always follow the above if I buy new. I think the initial change at such a low interval is also overkill. But, oil is cheap.
Note: Jambo likes Hondas. My car is a Civic, and the wife has a Fit. Honda purposefully has the computer tally mileage and "tells you" when service is due with their "Maintenance Minder". Most manufacturers are going to this. Just a matter of time when the bikes also do. The display calls out a code you have to research to find out what it means. Not only does the flimsy provided owners manual tell you nothing, but "take it to the stealership", but if you get the REAL manual (note: Honda will send you the "real" book they used to provide always for free if you ask for it within the first six months of ownership....read the purposefully very tiny font in the introduction of your manual), BUT even that 1.5" book does not tell you what the Maintenance Minder codes mean, or the service intervals. They do this on purpose. These days with online shopping, you have to be a moron to provide either dealer or manufacturer with much profit upon initial purchase. True whether car or bike. The real profit is made in the service department. They don't want you to know the intervals, or what the code means, so intimidated (or lazy) people, will just take the vehicle in for service. They don't want do-it-yourselfers. The Honda cars will tell you to do service A0 at 7500 miles, which is an oil change +. I did not wait. Most people will see the wrench idiot light (called that for a reason), panic and call the stealership, where they are urged to get the vehicle to them as soon as possible as they are the only ones who can interpret the A0 code and give the vehicle what it needs.
I changed oil at 1K miles and reset the Maintenance Minder on both Honda cars. I have never taken the car back to the stealership. Also the shrouds on the bottom of the vehicle serve two purposes: 1) allows for better aerodynamics to meet fuel economy fleet standards, and 2) discourages owners from doing their own service, as you can't even see the oil filter.
No bike or car manufacturers want their vehicles to last forever. Just past the warranty. I view the oil change intervals in this way. I want my vehicles to last forever. Oil is cheap and the time it takes me to change it is less than it takes to deliver the vehicle to have a service department do it, and it is more convenient for me to do it in my garage or driveway anyway, at my convenience. I change early and often, and with the described schedule above using good filters and oil, using my mechanical aptitude. In my case with the way frequent oil change interval, I do not think it matters a whole lot that I am using the PC Racing reusable filter, or an OEM one. It only matters that I am not using a K&N that can pop a nut ( ), or a Fram that can disintegrate because it is made out of spit and toilet tissue. This ensures me the job is done right, and my vehicle will last as long as possible.
Engine break-in.
There are two camps:
1) Ride it like you stole it from day one
2) Follow the manufacturers kinder, gentler approach
Either camp can debate when is the right time for the first oil change. If you follow the book, Honda tells us to change oil (Initial) after only 600 miles (1000km), or six months. Then every 4K miles thereafter.
That is actually the first time I recall the manufacturer recommending the initial change that early.
No matter. Here is what I do. I am 1) and 2) plus follow THIS recommendation, whether my owner's manual says to or not. If I buy new, I do the kinder-gentler break in for 600 miles. Car, bike, or whatever. Early shifts, mixed driving, through all the gears, no droning on the highway at constant speed. Then, change the oil/filter. With ONLY dino juice. NO SYNTHETIC at this time. Even if the manufacturer does not call for this early change, I do it anyway (see Honda car recommendation below). After that short initial period, which might only be a weekend or two, and the initial change, then 2) ride it like you stole it. The reason for dino juice at initial change is to allow the motor to break in thoroughly with rings seating to cylinder walls, and the rest of the motor (and transmission in the bike case) to properly seat and bed-in. If you switch to synthetic too early (at the initial change), then you could delay the motor break-in, and not gain the full horsepower the motor can make. Once that initial change is made, I will feel free to take it to the redline whenever it suits me, which might be every ride.
After the SECOND oil change at about 4K, I will switch to full synthetic and remain there for life (or the duration of my ownership).
I got my CB used with 5900 miles, in pristine condition, with already some aftermarket coin spent, for a 50% cost savings letting the original owner suffer the upfront massive depreciation on the bike (more so on the farkles). Then, I changed the oil (as described in this thread) at the onset of my ownership to establish a known baseline under my service record keeping. It doesn't matter what was claimed, I cannot verify what the break-in procedure was that was used.
Now I am free to rev the snot out of the motor as I please and enjoy.
I always follow the above if I buy new. I think the initial change at such a low interval is also overkill. But, oil is cheap.
Note: Jambo likes Hondas. My car is a Civic, and the wife has a Fit. Honda purposefully has the computer tally mileage and "tells you" when service is due with their "Maintenance Minder". Most manufacturers are going to this. Just a matter of time when the bikes also do. The display calls out a code you have to research to find out what it means. Not only does the flimsy provided owners manual tell you nothing, but "take it to the stealership", but if you get the REAL manual (note: Honda will send you the "real" book they used to provide always for free if you ask for it within the first six months of ownership....read the purposefully very tiny font in the introduction of your manual), BUT even that 1.5" book does not tell you what the Maintenance Minder codes mean, or the service intervals. They do this on purpose. These days with online shopping, you have to be a moron to provide either dealer or manufacturer with much profit upon initial purchase. True whether car or bike. The real profit is made in the service department. They don't want you to know the intervals, or what the code means, so intimidated (or lazy) people, will just take the vehicle in for service. They don't want do-it-yourselfers. The Honda cars will tell you to do service A0 at 7500 miles, which is an oil change +. I did not wait. Most people will see the wrench idiot light (called that for a reason), panic and call the stealership, where they are urged to get the vehicle to them as soon as possible as they are the only ones who can interpret the A0 code and give the vehicle what it needs.
I changed oil at 1K miles and reset the Maintenance Minder on both Honda cars. I have never taken the car back to the stealership. Also the shrouds on the bottom of the vehicle serve two purposes: 1) allows for better aerodynamics to meet fuel economy fleet standards, and 2) discourages owners from doing their own service, as you can't even see the oil filter.
No bike or car manufacturers want their vehicles to last forever. Just past the warranty. I view the oil change intervals in this way. I want my vehicles to last forever. Oil is cheap and the time it takes me to change it is less than it takes to deliver the vehicle to have a service department do it, and it is more convenient for me to do it in my garage or driveway anyway, at my convenience. I change early and often, and with the described schedule above using good filters and oil, using my mechanical aptitude. In my case with the way frequent oil change interval, I do not think it matters a whole lot that I am using the PC Racing reusable filter, or an OEM one. It only matters that I am not using a K&N that can pop a nut (
), or a Fram that can disintegrate because it is made out of spit and toilet tissue. This ensures me the job is done right, and my vehicle will last as long as possible.