Oil Change Time!

[Jambo_imp]

This thread as it relates to the cost effectiveness of the aftermarket reusable filter could be extended to a lot of other stuff we do.
The K&N air filter. Supposed to flow more air than stock filter, to which I have never seen empirical data from K&N, only claims, but the same argument could apply.

I have reused stock air filters. Just vacuum them off in the opposite direction from the normal flow to remove dirt, dust, grit. I have even used solvent, though would not recommend that. I always have filter oil on hand for a variety of machines. Then reuse. You could argue that you could get (riding condition dependent), 30-50K miles out of one. How many reuses of a K&N would it take to pay for the 1-200% premium over stock to make that filter cost effective? Maybe because it is alleged to be cleanable, and perhaps withstands that better than the OEM, you would be inspired to clean them more often and result in better filtration consistently over time.

Or, you could just say I am paying the extra money for better performance and the cost be darned.

How cost effective is an aftermarket seat. How cost effective is the Delkevic full exhaust system, or the Power Commander?

Sometimes the money isn't the only thing, but some perceived performance increase, or we just like it better.

We are surprisingly adept at justifying anything.

In my case, I already had the filter on hand, just so happens, already paid for with intention of using it on another Honda, with dubious initial value vs. upfront cost to begin with. But it looks the $hit doesn't it?
Lol.

Reason enough for me to justify a significant percentage of the farkles on my bikes. If I started applying cost-effectiveness to my motorcycle-related buying decisions...yikes. That wouldn't end well.

Reason enough for me to justify a significant percentage of the farkles on my bikes. If I started applying cost-effectiveness to my motorcycle-related buying decisions...yikes. That wouldn't end well.
Maybe we could do cost effectiveness spreadsheets and break that out when the box arrives to show to the wife. Then you could explain the analyses carefully and link it to the other retirement fund spreadsheet that shows how that Givi trunk allows you to take the bike on your commute more often, saving mpg over the car, permitting more savings that boost your contributions, resulting in HER retiring much earlier! Ignore the * for tires (nothing to see here, move along). That might inspire HER to search for more chrome laden savings!

My reasoning on using factory oil filters / or equivalents on my vehicles doesn't actually have any concern over the filtering...

Many don't think about how different oil filters effect oil flow itself- bypass valves, backflow valves, overall flow.

This is probably more important on certain engines than others.

You bring up another controversial subject. Most bike filters do not have the complication of bypass mechanicals built in. If you think about it, those measures are only for those who think all an internal combustion engine needs is the fuel put into that thingy behind the door.

My vehicles will never benefit from such bypass technology. Given I change the oil with synthetic on ridiculous 3K mile intervals, my oil filters are probably nearly new when they are removed to begin with. Again, and to me, if I do the work myself, which I enjoy and giving me the opportunity to inspect, the cost is so low that it is probably more of a feel good advantage than anything else.

Turns out, despite the fact that they are totally different engines, the wife's late model Honda Fit (1.5L) and my late model Honda Civic (2.0L) use the same filter. Ordered six at once through Walmart of Mobil-1 M110A's and got a $1/filter discount and never have to worry about having filters on hand. Those filters rate high in the Youtube dissassembly inspection comparos. With those, from the time I break out the two hydraulic jacks (with the protective frame pucks), remove shrouds, change oil/filter, reassemble, clean up pan/funnel and recycle, write service record, takes me an hour and costs $30/car, and $20 per bike (with reusable PC Racing filter), done on 3K mile intervals.

I think you can't go wrong with an OEM filter. I DO use the car oil. That costs me $4.60 per quart for FULL synthetic for comparison.

On the oil flow discussion, I think I reread the PC Racing claim of 35 micron filtration specs (when, initially, over the oil change interval, as an average, what interval?), which might allow larger particles through than an OEM. PC Racing claims a higher flow rate, which if you look at the photos of the internals and the surface area is perhaps believable. But compared to what surface area on an OEM? What are the OEM filtration specs? I will wait while you do the archeology to uncover the OEM specifications....Can't find any? Again, how much crud is in there after 3K miles using full synthetic? Judging by my inspection of the oil coming out of the motor(s), I am going to claim "not much".