01-04-2019, 09:20 AM
I am a licensed, automotive tech.
To the certain point, there is nothing wrong to rectify any problem by common sense:
did you do any work with your bike prior to the ABS problem like: washing, brakes, wheels/tires, disconnecting something..or anything else that is not even related in your mind to ABS, like: lending your bike to another rider, if your answer is "yes", I would check affected/related spots/area. Did it happen after buying your bike or was the problem present from the very beginning ??
Also:, these members gave you very good/wise tips, here are a few:
* Max
-) two fuses,
-) if the speedometer indicates normally, that would mean the *SENSOR=1* is functioning since the speedo gets its input from the modulator output.,
-) module also expects an input from the brake light,
pays to check functionality of the front and rear switches.,
-) plus his post # 10
*Pekingduck:
-) happens when the tire is being changed. The problem could have been there from new, but perhaps the dealer didn't notice it or it didn't happen for him.
*GoldOxide:
-) do a visual check on the sensor to ensure it wasn't damaged by a possible "shaving" from the encoder wheel.,
-) the controller conservatively goes into error mode to alert the driver until it is reset. Since it appears intermittent, that still smells like a cabling strain, questionable sensor ground connection, or anything along the ABS circuit. A deeper visual inspection would not hurt if you are curious.,
-) when you inspected the sensors, did you dismount them to take a look at them? Just thinking if a fleck of road tar got on the detector encoder-facing surface.
*Jtopiso:
-) wheel sensors
-) both brake switches (lever & pedal)
-) wiring
The bottom line
#1
Reading DTC prior rectifying the problem or/and resetting module would be the best.
The 2013/14 service manual, p.15-9 Problem Code Retrieval & p.15-10 Problem Code Erasure states that a jumper wire CAN be used between 2 terminals (ONLY '13 model), however after '13 model (p.15-12 & 15-14) SCS connector can ONLY be jumped by the special tool # 070PZ-ZY300100. I do NOT know what is the proper procedure for any other models, including yours 2017, so do not exercise with jumper wire as for '13 model.
#2
Your conventional braking system works OK, so I do not expect a hydraulic problem.
When the ABS unit detects a problem, it stops the ABS function and switches back to the conventional operation, and the ABS indicator blinks or stays on.
Do a very good visual inspection as few above members indicated.
If you have some manual skills, you may disconnect/inspect & reconnect (one by one basis) all related electrical connectors & fuses to: lever/pedal brake switches, stop bulb/connection , ABS module & its ground/bolt, F&R-WSS..there will be about 12-15 connections, including ECM.
Many electrical problems can be related to poor contact, NOT a defective component.
Also see if all 4 (2&2) = F&R-WSS bolts are tight.
You are provided you with friendly help based on: your description, 2013/14 manual (not '17) and suggestions of others,. This is NOT the onsite diagnose.
Whatever you do with the above electrical procedure, first make sure that the ignition is OFF and then battery disconnected (negative), except for reading, deleting and resetting DTC.
In general, electronic components handling requires gloves and grounding your body to the bike chassis prior touching .... this is not to scare you but to be technically correct.
Good luck
To the certain point, there is nothing wrong to rectify any problem by common sense:
did you do any work with your bike prior to the ABS problem like: washing, brakes, wheels/tires, disconnecting something..or anything else that is not even related in your mind to ABS, like: lending your bike to another rider, if your answer is "yes", I would check affected/related spots/area. Did it happen after buying your bike or was the problem present from the very beginning ??
Also:, these members gave you very good/wise tips, here are a few:
* Max
-) two fuses,
-) if the speedometer indicates normally, that would mean the *SENSOR=1* is functioning since the speedo gets its input from the modulator output.,
-) module also expects an input from the brake light,
pays to check functionality of the front and rear switches.,
-) plus his post # 10
*Pekingduck:
-) happens when the tire is being changed. The problem could have been there from new, but perhaps the dealer didn't notice it or it didn't happen for him.
*GoldOxide:
-) do a visual check on the sensor to ensure it wasn't damaged by a possible "shaving" from the encoder wheel.,
-) the controller conservatively goes into error mode to alert the driver until it is reset. Since it appears intermittent, that still smells like a cabling strain, questionable sensor ground connection, or anything along the ABS circuit. A deeper visual inspection would not hurt if you are curious.,
-) when you inspected the sensors, did you dismount them to take a look at them? Just thinking if a fleck of road tar got on the detector encoder-facing surface.
*Jtopiso:
-) wheel sensors
-) both brake switches (lever & pedal)
-) wiring
The bottom line
#1
Reading DTC prior rectifying the problem or/and resetting module would be the best.
The 2013/14 service manual, p.15-9 Problem Code Retrieval & p.15-10 Problem Code Erasure states that a jumper wire CAN be used between 2 terminals (ONLY '13 model), however after '13 model (p.15-12 & 15-14) SCS connector can ONLY be jumped by the special tool # 070PZ-ZY300100. I do NOT know what is the proper procedure for any other models, including yours 2017, so do not exercise with jumper wire as for '13 model.
#2
Your conventional braking system works OK, so I do not expect a hydraulic problem.
When the ABS unit detects a problem, it stops the ABS function and switches back to the conventional operation, and the ABS indicator blinks or stays on.
Do a very good visual inspection as few above members indicated.
If you have some manual skills, you may disconnect/inspect & reconnect (one by one basis) all related electrical connectors & fuses to: lever/pedal brake switches, stop bulb/connection , ABS module & its ground/bolt, F&R-WSS..there will be about 12-15 connections, including ECM.
Many electrical problems can be related to poor contact, NOT a defective component.
Also see if all 4 (2&2) = F&R-WSS bolts are tight.
You are provided you with friendly help based on: your description, 2013/14 manual (not '17) and suggestions of others,. This is NOT the onsite diagnose.
Whatever you do with the above electrical procedure, first make sure that the ignition is OFF and then battery disconnected (negative), except for reading, deleting and resetting DTC.
In general, electronic components handling requires gloves and grounding your body to the bike chassis prior touching .... this is not to scare you but to be technically correct.
Good luck