05-15-2023, 09:40 AM
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.
....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
There is no validity as that is NOT a test.
As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.
Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.