08-23-2015, 11:54 PM
As a new owner, I am still on the learning curve with this machine. Here is where I am. Hopefully I will be in a position to help others after I get up the curve.
1) Clunk. I had a real concern about the clunky shift into 1st gear. It happened no matter whether I was downshifting/engine braking, or shifting down at a stop. Reading this board, I found the chain tension How To. I checked my chain tension and it was wobbling almost TWO INCHES OF DEFLECTION. So much for Dealer Prep. This is a new 2013 sold by a dealer. Fortunately I have a decent set of tools except for the 32mm socket, which I obtained at Sears yesterday. Following the How To, I got the tension down to one inch. This made a huge difference. It downshifts one-by-one to first like butter. There is still a *little* clunk if I come to a quick stop and downshift, say, 4-3-2-1 all at once, but it seems within reason.
Question: I was pretty careful to adjust each chain tensioning bolt the same amount--got the right axle nut tightened to spec. The lines on the rear axle bracket seem like a very rough way, though, to ensure the rear wheel is perfectly straight. Eyeballing it, the right and left seem the same. But part of me wonders if there is another way to check straightness. Am I overthinking this?
2) Oil level. The oil level window is completely submerged. Again, so much for Dealer Prep. Given that this is a new 2013, and the oil has probably been in there for over a year, should I just change it now (so I know exactly how old the oil is), putting in the right amount? (Bike has 100 miles on it). Or just drain a little out until the level shows in the window? I'm leaning towards changing it now.
3) Givi Rear Carrier. I installed one last night. I didn't see a how-to on that--if I missed it, sorry; otherwise I could post one if people are interested. Main thing I learned is you have to drop the rear fender to get a wrench on the rear mounting nut.
1) Clunk. I had a real concern about the clunky shift into 1st gear. It happened no matter whether I was downshifting/engine braking, or shifting down at a stop. Reading this board, I found the chain tension How To. I checked my chain tension and it was wobbling almost TWO INCHES OF DEFLECTION. So much for Dealer Prep. This is a new 2013 sold by a dealer. Fortunately I have a decent set of tools except for the 32mm socket, which I obtained at Sears yesterday. Following the How To, I got the tension down to one inch. This made a huge difference. It downshifts one-by-one to first like butter. There is still a *little* clunk if I come to a quick stop and downshift, say, 4-3-2-1 all at once, but it seems within reason.
Question: I was pretty careful to adjust each chain tensioning bolt the same amount--got the right axle nut tightened to spec. The lines on the rear axle bracket seem like a very rough way, though, to ensure the rear wheel is perfectly straight. Eyeballing it, the right and left seem the same. But part of me wonders if there is another way to check straightness. Am I overthinking this?
2) Oil level. The oil level window is completely submerged. Again, so much for Dealer Prep. Given that this is a new 2013, and the oil has probably been in there for over a year, should I just change it now (so I know exactly how old the oil is), putting in the right amount? (Bike has 100 miles on it). Or just drain a little out until the level shows in the window? I'm leaning towards changing it now.
3) Givi Rear Carrier. I installed one last night. I didn't see a how-to on that--if I missed it, sorry; otherwise I could post one if people are interested. Main thing I learned is you have to drop the rear fender to get a wrench on the rear mounting nut.