The CB1100 Community Forum

As a new owner, I am still on the learning curve with this machine. Here is where I am. Hopefully I will be in a position to help others after I get up the curve.

1) Clunk. I had a real concern about the clunky shift into 1st gear. It happened no matter whether I was downshifting/engine braking, or shifting down at a stop. Reading this board, I found the chain tension How To. I checked my chain tension and it was wobbling almost TWO INCHES OF DEFLECTION. So much for Dealer Prep. This is a new 2013 sold by a dealer. Fortunately I have a decent set of tools except for the 32mm socket, which I obtained at Sears yesterday. Following the How To, I got the tension down to one inch. This made a huge difference. It downshifts one-by-one to first like butter. There is still a *little* clunk if I come to a quick stop and downshift, say, 4-3-2-1 all at once, but it seems within reason.

Question: I was pretty careful to adjust each chain tensioning bolt the same amount--got the right axle nut tightened to spec. The lines on the rear axle bracket seem like a very rough way, though, to ensure the rear wheel is perfectly straight. Eyeballing it, the right and left seem the same. But part of me wonders if there is another way to check straightness. Am I overthinking this?

2) Oil level. The oil level window is completely submerged. Again, so much for Dealer Prep. Given that this is a new 2013, and the oil has probably been in there for over a year, should I just change it now (so I know exactly how old the oil is), putting in the right amount? (Bike has 100 miles on it). Or just drain a little out until the level shows in the window? I'm leaning towards changing it now.

3) Givi Rear Carrier. I installed one last night. I didn't see a how-to on that--if I missed it, sorry; otherwise I could post one if people are interested. Main thing I learned is you have to drop the rear fender to get a wrench on the rear mounting nut.

For number 1, some of us use a micrometer. Use the end where the shaft sticks out and you can set both sides of your axle exactly the same.

2. A lot of our bikes came like that. I'll let others comment as I'm not getting into an oil thread.

3. A lot of us have the Givi carrier, including me, but I don't think there is a how to on it. There were some threads on it though. A how-to would be nice for people to reference.

Howdy SailorRider. My alignment marks seem to be accurate enough but I double check with this tool from Motion Pro.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0048...63J508AX1P

I think most of us have had the crankcase slightly overfilled at delivery. Have someone lean the bike slightly to the left while you observe the oil level. Only a slight lean should show the max oil level and I would not bother removing any oil unless the level is well above normal.

I use a micrometer too and agree with Steve amd Popgun. these come a little overfilled. the reason I have heard is during the first 600 miles while rings are seating it may consume a little oil and of course better to have a little extra in there if this happens. no worries at 600 miles if you change the oil yourself, you will see how difficult it is to get the level exactly right lol

(08-24-2015, 12:00 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: [ -> ]For number 1, some of us use a micrometer. Use the end where the shaft sticks out and you can set both sides of your axle exactly the same.

2. A lot of our bikes came like that. I'll let others comment as I'm not getting into an oil thread.

3. A lot of us have the Givi carrier, including me, but I don't think there is a how to on it. There were some threads on it though. A how-to would be nice for people to reference.

Measuring that way assumes the swingarm is exactly straight to begin with and those shafts are exactly the same length.

There are some other methods, such as using something long aligned directly to the tire/wheel, there's a laser system I've seen, etc.

Having said all that, it's been my experience that it doesn't matter that much if the wheel is slightly askew.

Yeah, I've seen those too, and the string method.

Really interesting discussion on alignment. I was also wondering how definitive the micrometer test would be because it assumes the swing arm ends are the correct reference points. Seems to me the best way to reassure a newbie over-thinker like me is to check both chain alignment AND the measurement at the axle. Each will inform the other, and it will provide a repeatable reference. I'm guessing perfect alignment is way more important for a 150mph crotch rocket than for a bike like ours, where eyeballing the alignment marks and checking chain alignment is probably good enough for rock and roll. I'm looking forward to ordering and reading the service manual.