07-03-2026, 04:53 AM
Yes, there is the interminable debate about thread drift, and what to do about it. I hope in this case the creation of a new thread in order to not distract from the photo challenge is agreeable to most readers. Thank you, Cormanus!
Anyway, I made some progress yesterday. First I used a spare 12V battery to directly activate the coil of the starter relay, and it started right up. That put my mind at ease regarding the relay and everything downstream.
I also did continuity checks on the wire that activates the relay, from the relay to the 10-pin connector of the motor wire harness. All good. Then I did continuity checks on the main wire bundle from the motor to the console. It was also good.
Next, I did some tests with the key switch and kill switch. I referenced a diagram I found online which I hope is accurate. The off position and the kill switch worked as expected. The run and start positions did not. When I checked for continuity between red and yellow, and between red and brown (diagram below) with the switch in on and start, I didn't get anywhere near zero ohms. It was ~10k.
I can't say for sure, but maybe that resistance is enough to weaken the signal to the relay coil. So it will click, but not really close properly. It does run though, once started.
I removed the key switch and brought it inside last night, and went to bed. My plan for this morning is to put some contact cleaner in the key hole and work it around, and retest it. If that doesn't work, maybe I can get it apart. I don't think so. If that fails, look for a new one.
Sorry I'm not going to be able to get motorcycles into the conversation...if this was a Yamaha problem (and the F115 has given plenty of problems) I could talk about how much more reliable my Yamaha dirt bikes were than this. But I think the Yamaha is fine in this case. Let me know if anyone has a better idea about how to explain the 10k ohms and what to do about it...
Anyway, I made some progress yesterday. First I used a spare 12V battery to directly activate the coil of the starter relay, and it started right up. That put my mind at ease regarding the relay and everything downstream.
I also did continuity checks on the wire that activates the relay, from the relay to the 10-pin connector of the motor wire harness. All good. Then I did continuity checks on the main wire bundle from the motor to the console. It was also good.
Next, I did some tests with the key switch and kill switch. I referenced a diagram I found online which I hope is accurate. The off position and the kill switch worked as expected. The run and start positions did not. When I checked for continuity between red and yellow, and between red and brown (diagram below) with the switch in on and start, I didn't get anywhere near zero ohms. It was ~10k.
I can't say for sure, but maybe that resistance is enough to weaken the signal to the relay coil. So it will click, but not really close properly. It does run though, once started.
I removed the key switch and brought it inside last night, and went to bed. My plan for this morning is to put some contact cleaner in the key hole and work it around, and retest it. If that doesn't work, maybe I can get it apart. I don't think so. If that fails, look for a new one.
Sorry I'm not going to be able to get motorcycles into the conversation...if this was a Yamaha problem (and the F115 has given plenty of problems) I could talk about how much more reliable my Yamaha dirt bikes were than this. But I think the Yamaha is fine in this case. Let me know if anyone has a better idea about how to explain the 10k ohms and what to do about it...