Bar Weight Gap Fix?

[2017EX_imp]

Being extremely picky about my bikes, and being retired I have the time to figure out solutions to what I dont like. Apparently Honda did not account for the extra grip length on the throttle side caused by the gap between the rubber grip, and the switch housing. This can be seen as about a 1/4" wide space of white plastic throttle tube. When the inner bar end weight retaining holes were punched in the handle bar, that difference in length was not accounted for, and the clutch side retaining holes were punched at the same distance from the end of the handle bar as the throttle side. The result was a wider gap between the rubber grip end and the bar end on the clutch side. I bought a set of HVMP stainless Heavy Universal Bar ends as a starting point. Then I spent hours with a dial caliper to get the dimensions to have them machined down to the same size and shape as the stock bar ends. The difference though, is that there is a dedicated right ( throttle ) and left ( clutch ) bar end. The first step down on the right side is longer than the left. This first step down is retained from the stock design, and acts as a stop ( the bar end will not slide any farther into the handle bar ) to prevent jamming throttle twist. The second, and smallest step down slides inside the handle bar. The end result is uniform gap on both sides. The HVMP directions caution against loosening the retaining bolt too much any time the bar end is removed, to prevent the retaining nut from falling off inside the handle bar. I solved that with a stainless 7mm snap ring applied to the thread of the bolt ends, and a little dab of silicone to ensure it did not vibrate off over time. Removal of the stock bar ends is relatively easy. Here is how to get at the clutch side inner weight locking holes without removing or cutting the grip off: http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/519...emoval.pdf . The throttle side requires dismounting the switch housing, and sliding the throttle tube off to expose the locking holes. The stock bar ends are cast pot metal, chromed, so I believe the stainless is far superior. Once installed, the new bar ends are very solidly in place, but easy to remove if I ever wanted to. Stock "before" pictures are at the beginning of this thread, and I have posted during and after pictures here. If there is any interest from the membership, I will post PDFs of the mechanical drawings that any machinist could use to make these, either starting with HVMP parts as I did ( more costly ), or using stainless bar stock. The modified stainless bar ends weigh about 1 oz. less than stock.