Finally got to actually ride it.

[Jambo_imp]

Jambo, by all means try, but you'll not get much argument here that the CB1100 set out largely to appeal to geezers. The seat-of-the-pants dyno is all very interesting, but do you intend to take it to one of the floor-mounted, calibrated variety and see what HP improvement you really achieved? A couple of members—PowerDubs and beardyweirdy have got close to 100 hp, but they've had to work very hard for it.

That is a very good question that I have thought very much about. Jambo got lots of opinions (you are concluding), and this is one of them. In recent history, disregard what the aftermarket exhaust manufacturers says about merely purchasing their product, and it requiring no dyno tuning as the stock ECU will take care of it. They don't want every purchase of their expensive product to come with an analysis by the buyer of the factor of the cost of a fuel module, or they have less sales.
By the nature of the bike manufacturers being an easy target of the EPA (without the muscle like the auto industry has), the bike already comes fueled very lean from the factory. While that is good for emissions, it is not good for longevity of the motor. A lean motor is a hot motor. Getting an aftermarket slip-on or full exhaust (especially if adding the K&N), must include dyno runs, and a PC type device to compensate for the A/F ratios or the rider risks poor running, less performance gain, and long term affects to the longevity of the motor. That was my justifiable past thinking. Case in point was my Superhawk. That bike was carbureted, and took many pulls of the tank, airbox, and carbs to get the settings right for the full exhaust and K&N I bought. Pull tank/box/carb, make adjustments to the needles and mains, reassemble, and run on dyno. Only to discover due to the overlapping affects of the needles and jets, that you squeezed the balloon too much one way or another. Rinse and repeat.
NOW, and especially with a popular bike, Dynojet mostly has maps that will closely mimic your choice of add-ons. I still think the farther you stray from stock, from just a slip-on, to full system, to adding a K&N, you must at least have the PCV to compensate A/F. And in the past, it made sense to dyno that and make map adjustments to the PC according to the crucial information acquired from the run.
NOW the PCs are pretty good and have lots of maps. I was skeptical that the CB1100+Yosh (and stock air) map would get it close. I was wrong. And NOW, you have the Autotuner, giving the capable purchaser the ability to "teach" the mapper to map correctly using the wideband sensor. That learning occurs over all rpms, gears, and throttle positions. That crucial information was only previously available by putting the bike on the dyno and running it up through the gears getting A/F ratios along the way, and changing them as needed. NOW the Autotuner does this w/o the dyno.
The actual need to use the dyno run as the informer to the tuner and fuel manager (computer) has been largely reduced. This relegates the dyno run to information for the interested reader, IMO.
I really don't care what the actual number is, or that I wring the absolute most out of this motor it is capable of producing.
My goals are:
1) make sure the bike is running optimally, with no stumbles, hiccups, or non-linear characteristics
2) gain satisfactory performance.

Judging by my short, but very comprehensive first ride, I have achieved both. It really doesn't matter to me what the actual number is, though it makes an interesting graph for my CB1100 folder and provides the ability to discuss it quantitatively. My butt dyno tells me the bike makes plenty of hp and really doesn't NEED more.

I am still am skeptical that my PCV (alone) map will be good by itself if I further lean the bikes A/F with the K&N. I will try it. If my goal #1 suffers, I can take it out, OR weld on the wideband and tune the PCV through real-world learning. I am also not a stranger to making airbox mods and can cut holes in it. Stuff LIKE THAT though, really does benefit from dyno runs. I got surprising results turning my HawkGT air box into a sieve a little at a time (did not improve followed by duct tape over holes and more dyno runs). Alternatively, I could install the Autotuner and see what it does with the stock O2. I can always revert back to a previously better map (#1) if needed.

Outside of exhaust, PCV, Autotuner, and air filter and box mods, what other substantial work required achieving the hp ton? Did they do cams and compression ratios? I have no desire to do any of that. The bike does not need that IMO. If it was just exhaust, filter, box and fuel management, that is not a huge effort.

With the Autotuner, the actual need and requirement to put the bike on the dyno has lessened greatly. I should be able to tell if the bike runs smoothly.