05-15-2016, 10:03 AM
As Popgun says, check rotor runout and thickness. The latter should not be a problem but have a look any way. That just ensures the rotor is still good. Blueing in itself is not a problem and the rotors will not be "cooked". A light skim or sand may be necessary if glazing or deep grooving exists.
Next step is to troubleshoot the problem. I quote directly from the '13 service manual:
Brake drags
~ Contaminated brake disc/pad
~ Misaligned wheel
~ Badly worn brake pad/disk
~ Warped/deformed brake disk
~ Caliper not sliding properly
~ Sticking caliper piston
~ Clogged/restricted fluid passage.
I don't know if your mechanical skill is equal to your undoubted photographic skill, but, if so, none of the above procedures or checks will be challenging. You have already indicated in your post that you are capable of all the above. A manual is useful however torque settings, caliper limits and other tips can be sought from forum members.
From your initial inspection you indicated that the hydraulics looked OK and the piston retracted. I would suggest that in checking the piston you pull the caliper apart and check for scoring (or "ringing") and that it is in round with the cylinder ID and piston OD within limits. Very light scoring can be removed by rubbing with fine (1200) wet and dry. Replace all the seals and lubricate both the piston seal and piston with Dot4 before assembly. There is some silicone grease points that need attending to so the assembly doesn't bind.
If the caliper is in good knick then it is back to the hydraulics. First check the pedal and linkage is completely free from any binding. Next step is master cylinder strip and inspection.
And so it goes. Plenty of advice from the forum to help. It is highly unlikely you have been riding the brake pedal, but if your not sure then, when all is back together, be careful.
Cheers and good luck.
Next step is to troubleshoot the problem. I quote directly from the '13 service manual:
Brake drags
~ Contaminated brake disc/pad
~ Misaligned wheel
~ Badly worn brake pad/disk
~ Warped/deformed brake disk
~ Caliper not sliding properly
~ Sticking caliper piston
~ Clogged/restricted fluid passage.
I don't know if your mechanical skill is equal to your undoubted photographic skill, but, if so, none of the above procedures or checks will be challenging. You have already indicated in your post that you are capable of all the above. A manual is useful however torque settings, caliper limits and other tips can be sought from forum members.
From your initial inspection you indicated that the hydraulics looked OK and the piston retracted. I would suggest that in checking the piston you pull the caliper apart and check for scoring (or "ringing") and that it is in round with the cylinder ID and piston OD within limits. Very light scoring can be removed by rubbing with fine (1200) wet and dry. Replace all the seals and lubricate both the piston seal and piston with Dot4 before assembly. There is some silicone grease points that need attending to so the assembly doesn't bind.
If the caliper is in good knick then it is back to the hydraulics. First check the pedal and linkage is completely free from any binding. Next step is master cylinder strip and inspection.
And so it goes. Plenty of advice from the forum to help. It is highly unlikely you have been riding the brake pedal, but if your not sure then, when all is back together, be careful.
Cheers and good luck.