07-18-2018, 10:59 AM
(07-18-2018, 10:54 AM)Cormanus_imp Wrote:(07-18-2018, 10:47 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: I evacuate most of the reservoir, add fresh fluid, then bleed the "cumbersome" way.
It is so infrequent, I chose to not invest in specialty tools.
Definitely not criticizing those who do.
But I still recall all the specialty tools I gave away when I closed Cycle Tuning Unlimited in the eighties. Not to mention pounds and pounds of metric fasteners that I should have kept!
Curious way to measure metric items.
Just sayin’.
Curious way to measure metric items.
Just sayin’.
Hmmm...how do you know I was not talking British monetary units?!
Your turn...
(07-18-2018, 08:54 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: At least 2 members (IIRC) had problems riding their rear brake. At least one overheated the rotor and warped it and, obvously, had to replace it.
Your bike is 4 years old. Brake and clutch fluid should be replaced every 2 years. Doesn’t matter if it was riden or sat in a crate.
Just because your dealer says the brakes are ok doesn’t mean they are. At least 4 members, including me, had air in the rear brake system from the get go. The dealers, including my service manager/head mech, said nothing was wrong. I bled mine and a lot of air came out. One member’s tech didn’t blow him off and flushed and bled the lines. You should flush and bleed yours. Its easy.
When rotors or drums get very hot, such as from braking down a steep hill from a high speed, they are less likely to warp if the brakes are not applied after stopping, as the portion of the rotor or drum exposed to air cools faster than the portion to which the pads or shoes are applied.