12-04-2019, 06:47 AM
(12-04-2019, 04:33 AM)misterprofessionality_imp Wrote: I don't know of any way to do that.
edit: just consulted a few videos, they all seem to use some kind of single purpose gauge apparatus i have no access to. Looks like that's out unless there's a simpler way to do it.
The tool is a dial indicator that you afix to something that doesn’t move and put the indicator on the rotor and spin the wheel around. Then watch and see how much the indicator moves and check that against the spec.
Here is one like I have, although you can pay a lot more, or a lot less.
[url=https://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-Storm-Run-Out-Indicator/dp/B01MQPLB1G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3IXBYI4BXJR7M&keywords=rotor+runout+dial+indicator&qid=1575491871&sprefix=Rotor+ru%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3]https://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-Sto...151&sr=8-3
BUT, If I was you first I would use a Scotchbrite pad and something aggressive (like maybe acetone) and scrub the rotors real good. It could just be a build up of pad material. A common problem. And you can’t really see it on the rotor. Failing that, the dealer can easily check the runout in a few minutes. I would expect it for free since the problem started after they worked on the bike. YMMV
(12-04-2019, 06:04 AM)Chuckk_imp Wrote: are those rotors thick enough to have them turned ? .. it might not take much..
chuckk ..
Good question Chuck. And I don’t know. The manual just says to measure the thickness with a micrometer and replace if less than the service limit which for the front is 3.5mm (0.14in)
It also says that if the warpage exceeds the service limit to check the wheel bearings for excessive play and if good then replace the disc. So Mr. P, you might want to dismount the front wheel and remount it in the sequence in the manual.