Posts: 12,677
Threads: 77
Likes Received: 3 in 3 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Dec 2014
My 2014 CB front brake squeaks from time-to-time. It squeaked about three times yesterday, however, that may have had something to do with condensation in the air when returning up from a lower country meadow road to the warmer air. It definitely wasn't consistent.
I always stop using both brakes (post downshift), two feet down simultaneously for the last few feet of travel, if applicable. Sometimes I just stop with both feet on the pegs. The CB is remarkably balanced, the NC750 even more so.
Posts: 3,881
Threads: 115
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Apr 2013
Speed bleeders make bleeding brakes much easier and also quicker.
Posts: 1,298
Threads: 39
Likes Received: 15 in 8 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Apr 2025
Nortoon , you probably already know this but the rear brake housing would need to be held higher so the air in the line's high points can slowly escape upwards toward the slave cylinder and be bled out through the bleed-nipple, the way it is mounted is literally a trap for the air that cannot escape out of the line.
It requires the two bolts that hold the slave cylinder taken out, the abs line unclipped from the brake line but left where it is and the metal clip unbolted from the swingarm.
Then the cylinder can be moved up to the point that the air in the line can freely travel to the top and be bled out, a surprising small amount of air can impede the brake operation.
Not sure if you want to do this but that's what i would have done if my brakes were " soft" , totally different story for the front brakes, they clear themselves over time because there is nowhere for the air to be trapped in a high spot, and yes, speed bleeders are nice as houtman explains.
Posts: 704
Threads: 27
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2015
if by bite you really mean bite, you won't get it with ebc pads. if vesra makes pads for the cb, get them. they bite.
Posts: 57
Threads: 7
Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Apr 2021
Add me to the list of front rotor problems. I bought my 2014 non abs cb1100 two months ago with 8,500 miles. I have used scotchbrite to clean the rotors, replaced the pads ( Honda pads) and bled the brake lines. The pulsing only happens when I am going faster than 50 mph. This happened with the original tire and I just put new tires on and I am still getting the pulsing, Can these rotors be turned (machined) like car rotors? I am seeing new front rotors for the bike listed at $332 a piece. That’s ridiculous.
Posts: 107
Threads: 8
Likes Received: 2 in 2 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Jun 2020
Back in the late 90s early 00s we were into Ducatis, both on road and track. We an others in the Ducati community had a string of warped rotors, on new/low mileage bikes. To cut along story short - the conclusion was inferior quality in either material and/or production. and nothing you as a rider did would make any difference. Either they warped or they didn't. We routinely replaced the OEMs with ISR discs which never warped and had better bite. Costly yes but so worth it. If my CB developed pulsating I'd not faff about trying to fix it. I'd go straight to ISR and consider it cheaper in the long run.
Posts: 8,035
Threads: 21
Likes Received: 186 in 108 posts
Likes Given: 136
Joined: Apr 2025
(07-08-2021, 12:50 PM)bvictory_imp Wrote: Add me to the list of front rotor problems. I bought my 2014 non abs cb1100 two months ago with 8,500 miles. I have used scotchbrite to clean the rotors, replaced the pads ( Honda pads) and bled the brake lines. The pulsing only happens when I am going faster than 50 mph. This happened with the original tire and I just put new tires on and I am still getting the pulsing, Can these rotors be turned (machined) like car rotors? I am seeing new front rotors for the bike listed at $332 a piece. That’s ridiculous.
A member posted that TRW MST278 is a direct replacement for CB1100 front rotors. I don’t know what they cost. A member in Australia just used them on his bike. Do your research.
Before I replace rotors I would do a runout check. It is easy if you have the tool.
As far as turning the rotors. Well they are thin but I think the specs are on the rotor (The specs are in the manual but I don't have it right at the moment). Maybe light turning, but IDK.
Posts: 7,084
Threads: 94
Likes Received: 576 in 313 posts
Likes Given: 969
Joined: Apr 2025
A warped/out of spec rotor cannot be turned/ground, as the pulsation will come back in more aggressive way, jeopardizing safety when braking. Replacement only.
Bleeding and replacing pads will not cure warped rotor either.
Checking run out, as LP mentioned, is very essential.
If it were my bike, I would investigate why my rotors are warped, prior replacing them, so the same issue will not repeat itself again.
If you DIY, read service manual prior rotors replacement, as to how to do it correctly and which parts need to be replaced along with new rotors.
Good/proven quality rotors only, if not OEM !!
Posts: 1,003
Threads: 63
Likes Received: 46 in 18 posts
Likes Given: 8
Joined: Dec 2013
I have tried EBC brake pads on other bikes I have owned and discovered they just didn't work as well as the stock, Honda pads.
Posts: 12,677
Threads: 77
Likes Received: 3 in 3 posts
Likes Given: 0
Joined: Dec 2014
(07-09-2021, 03:50 AM)Dave_imp Wrote: I have tried EBC brake pads on other bikes I have owned and discovered they just didn't work as well as the stock, Honda pads.
We have similar complaints on the Honda Africa Twin forum. OEM appears to be the way to go without the drama.
