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Now I am thoroughly confused.
I know I installed part number 38770-MGC-A24 purchased from Partzilla, replacing pn 38770-MGC-A23.
The Partsfish that Lord Popgun references above shows the pn as 38770-MGC-A43, not A23 or A24.
Obi-wan Kenobi has found a part number 38770-MGC-A42, which I also find Partzilla claiming is the correct part for the 2014.
When I originally ordered the A23 from Partzilla, all they were selling was the A24, which worked fine and looked identical to the part it replaced, the A23.
I remain confused, but, if Partzilla is saying the A42 (not A24) is the right one, you might want to call and ask them about the transposition of the numbers.
Or just do as PowerDubs suggests.
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Nachodaddy, I think the answer is that A23 is the part number for the 2013 bike and A42 is the part number for the 2014 standard model. The 2014 DLX part number ends with A73.
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Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
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(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.
....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
There is no validity as that is NOT a test.
As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.
Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.
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Thanks guys. I jumped the gun to think that there was only one ECU programmed for all the models. Of course different years, locations and transmissions and lots of other things are involved. Still, it is strange to me that different years and configurations of the bike (five speed, six speed, etc.) have the same problem and it is resolved by replacing the IACV or the ECU.
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(05-15-2023, 09:40 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: (05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.
....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
There is no validity as that is NOT a test.
As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.
Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.
I didnt know the right terminology. I was trying to say to reflash the original version that the bike came with.
(05-15-2023, 09:40 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: (05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.
....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
There is no validity as that is NOT a test.
As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.
Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.
I dont think it is accurate to say "waste of money". I think that might be a good option for someone who is not comfortable with doing it themselves. I really dont need all that. I would be 100% satisfied with just fixing the idle problem. I really enjoy the bike even without those improved aspects.
(05-15-2023, 09:40 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: (05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Useless. There is no 'reset' and they can't reflash or remap to a newer ECU version. No shop will.
....but we can. For cheap too. 1973cb750 provided the path, I provided the tune info...from there- the sky is the limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
Waste of money....since even if it fixes the idle problem, for much less money you can ALSO have smoother response, more power, higher RPM limit, higher speed limit.
(05-15-2023, 08:59 AM)Obi-wan Kenobi_imp Wrote: Did some quick research to figure out the part numbers:
Partzilla:
2013 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2013 CB1100A AC -> 38770-MGC-A23
2014 CB1100SA AC -> 38770-MGC-A73
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A42
*The 38770-MGC-A43 is on here but I had to search directly for it.
PartsFish:
2014 CB1100 AC -> 38770-MGC-A43 (Previously 38770-MGC-A42)
My 2014 CB1100 has 38770-MGC-A42 (Just took the tank off and looked today).
I think I will look into the cost of a shop resetting (or re-mapping? Re-flash?) the ECU.
If that seems too expensive, then I might investigate how to to do it myself. Any suggestions on resources for how to figure it out?
The third option being to just buy the 38770-MGC-A43 for $475 from partzilla.
Despite all my research previously, I just came across this thread :http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15710
They talk about a signal from the clutch playing a role in the ECU calculations. I am curious if leaving the clutch sensor disconnected (with wires shorted together) will allow the engine to idle properly. I have noticed that when my bike is idling correctly, letting out the clutch is when the idle raises and stays raised. This might give me more confidence to go ahead and spend the money to update or replace the ECU. Any thoughts on the validity of this test?
There is no validity as that is NOT a test.
As I already said- correlation is NOT causation.
Unplugging something and seeing a change in behavior does NOT mean the part unplugged is at fault- nor is unplugging a fix.
Test (Noun)
a critical examination, observation, or evaluation : TRIAL
It kind of is a test. I wanted to observe what the RPMs would be. I wanted to know what would happen if the ECU does not know that the clutch is engaged. It might not raise the RPM to 2,000 like it has been.
I was not saying that this will fix the issue, nor did I say that the clutch switch would be causing the problem. I am trying to confirm that the ECU is the problem by performing tests on my bike specifically.
Maybe it is a dumb idea. Ill own that, but it is free and maybe I will learn something.
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I can test my tire pressure- doesn't mean it is the reason my washing machine won't drain.
First part of 'critical examination' is for it to be critical- not just randomly throwing bananas around.
If you want to spend $500+ for a stock ECU- that you can now literally have the exact same result for <$50... not even counting the other possible benefits...you do you.
Have fun!!
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That’s a fine example of ‘throwing bananas around’, Dubs, but not a good or helpful analogy. It would be friendlier if you explained how it is you and others here know the clutch sensor is not the issue nor related to it.
As for reflashing the ECU, for most of us lay folk it’s both a mystery and a big deal. Taking the word of some random dude on the Internet that you can do it easily on the cheap may be just as smart as believing testing your tyre pressure unblocked the washing machine.
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In regards to the clutch being involved somehow, I have some new information which may help. My problem started after I spent many mornings riding at slow speed in a parking lot, slipping the clutch and using the rear brake to go slow while I practiced U-turns and circles.Each day I would do this for about half an hour. I am not sure how long( a couple of weeks, maybe a month) it was after I started doing this before the slow idle and then the fast idle started, but it might well have been related to the constant clutch pressure.
There seem to be so many factors involved that complicate the whole problem.
I have stopped the slow-ride practice, just in case.
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(05-16-2023, 08:52 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: In regards to the clutch being involved somehow, I have some new information which may help. My problem started after I spent many mornings riding at slow speed in a parking lot, slipping the clutch and using the rear brake to go slow while I practiced U-turns and circles.Each day I would do this for about half an hour. I am not sure how long( a couple of weeks, maybe a month) it was after I started doing this before the slow idle and then the fast idle started, but it might well have been related to the constant clutch pressure.
There seem to be so many factors involved that complicate the whole problem.
I have stopped the slow-ride practice, just in case.
Again- correlation /= causation.
Low speed using the clutch just induced a situation with low speeds...does NOT mean the clutch switch itself is any fault / cause.
The ECU is the brain- it looks at inputs then outputs based on that.
If it sees the idle drop- it doesn't care why- doesn't care about the clutch any more than it would if you were dragging the back brake. All it cares is- RPM should be higher-and it TRIES to adjust both air and fuel to compensate. There are probably a LOT of parts involved- idle control valve, intake air temp, airbox manifold pressure, throttle angle, heck- even oil temp...maybe more.. unplug any of those could make a difference at that moment- without meaning that part was the failure reason.
It is entirely possible the original IACV design may have had some issues- but it is just as likely and seems to be the case that the parameters of feedback range before things go south was not appropriate either.
I work in a completely unrelated field- other than the fact that my job entails complex arrays of computers, actuators, and sensors on a WIDE variety of diverse products.
I have seen first hand more times than I can count, pushed out on TSB (technical service bulletins)- new software revisions to 'adjust' (loosen range / specs) that the computer is looking at before fault.
And @cormanus- 'friendly' is an opinion. Some people get upset at facts- where others understand reality and think nothing of it. I'm more of a suck it up buttercup kinda guy. I'm more than willing to help people- it's up to them to listen.
You say - " It would be friendlier if you explained how it is you and others here know the clutch sensor is not the issue nor related to it."
Yet- you discount that we took our time to give advice at all. It's not up to you to judge and comment on how YOU think we should give it. Especially when you didn't contribute to the solution.
None of us are employed here to teach a class. We aren't getting paid. We do it all for the love of the bike and the community. People are free to do what they want... some good, some bad.
Heck- how many people coming her to ask for help have even started with class 101 and bought a repair manual for this bike?
I'll 100% admit I am more mechanical than electronic- but if Max or Popgun gives me advice- I'll read it, chose my path and go on- I don't come back and comment- judge their personality...
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