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Oil Change 2700 miles
#21
For those that believe, no proof is necessary. For those that do not, none is possible.
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#22
(11-23-2013, 01:40 AM)ingobohn_imp Wrote:
(11-22-2013, 11:29 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!

I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.

If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.

Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.

If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.

You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.
A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German. Big Grin Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...! Big Grin)

But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right? Cool
A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German. Big Grin Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...! Big Grin)

But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right? Cool
yes those two (dino & mineral oil) should be the same. Dino = slang for dinosaurs, from which we get the oil in the first place....Celebrate
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#23
(11-23-2013, 02:07 AM)Deanohh_imp Wrote: For those that believe, no proof is necessary. For those that do not, none is possible.

Philosopher eh.? I'm a self-made { more like Homemade }
Philosopher in training.Been at it for near 30 years.
However Philosophy is the Study of Life.
No one gets out of life alive.
Therefore one can easily get out of a life of boring and
underperforming motorcycles,by simply passing on that
new hog at the Harley dealer.
So Sayeth I.
I mean ... Me.
Reply
#24
(11-23-2013, 02:35 AM)kenfyoozed_imp Wrote:
(11-23-2013, 01:40 AM)ingobohn_imp Wrote:
(11-22-2013, 11:29 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Dang.... An argument over oil. Imagine that!

I trust Honda engineers, they designed the motor, it is their job to tell me how best to take care of it, and if they say use 10w30 dino oil ( and that 10w40 dino oil is ok too), ... THAT ... is good enough for me.

If they say drain the oil first, then the oil filter .... THAT .... is good enough for me too.

Will other methods and other lubricants also work? Undoubtedly. Necessary or better? Not necessarily. Could be..might not be. I am not an engineer...and I don't play one on the internet.
Since I am not an engineer on metallurgy or an expert on the properties of oil, I will rely on real engineers to tell me what they have determined is necessary to keep my engine running at it's peak. It's clearly spelled out in my owners manual and service manual.

If you choose to believe in superstitions, wive's tales, rumors, internet horror stories of a friend of a friend who had a buddy who, or a buddy who rides an X and is a fanatic about oil, that is certainly your prerogative.

You are certainly free to express your opinion, but please keep the discussion civil so that Guth and I don't receive complaints and are forced to step in and do something. That is all we ask.
A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German. Big Grin Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...! Big Grin)

But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right? Cool
A bit off-topic I know, and maybe it's simply the reason that I am German. Big Grin Please forgive me that. (Don't mention the war...! Big Grin)

But what is dino oil?
I know full synth oil, I know partly synth oil and I know mineral oil (that's how we call here in Germany the "worst" quality).
I assume that dino oil the last one, right? Cool
yes those two (dino & mineral oil) should be the same. Dino = slang for dinosaurs, from which we get the oil in the first place....Celebrate

not just ANY dinosaurs...ROTTING dinosaurs Wink ...
Reply
#25
(11-22-2013, 02:44 PM)_imp Wrote:
(11-22-2013, 02:38 PM)Deanohh_imp Wrote: If it heats faster, it cools faster. Thermo conductivity works both ways.

Wrong.get yer head right.
The entire reason Harley cruisers require 20w-50 is
because they are air-cooled.Therefore they are expected to
run hotter than the water-cooled metrics.Which require
10w-40.
Plus many Harley models have oil cooler units on them.
Which totally blows yer theory all to heck.

Wrong.get yer head right.
The entire reason Harley cruisers require 20w-50 is
because they are air-cooled.Therefore they are expected to
run hotter than the water-cooled metrics.Which require
10w-40.
Plus many Harley models have oil cooler units on them.
Which totally blows yer theory all to heck.
I'm going to say what other are thinking, stop writing meaning less garbage. Guth or Mickey feel free to delete this thread it's way of topic
Reply
#26
Harleys have roller bearing cranks and can handle thick 20-50 oil. No way would I put that heavy oil in the plain bearing crank cb, it's asking for inadequate lubrication. I'll go with what the honda engineers recommend using.
Reply
#27
(11-23-2013, 01:49 PM)furious_blue_imp Wrote: Harleys have roller bearing cranks and can handle thick 20-50 oil. No way would I put that heavy oil in the plain bearing crank cb, it's asking for inadequate lubrication. I'll go with what the honda engineers recommend using.

Fair reply.However Amsoil has a 10w-40 oil specifically
formulated for metrics and wet clutches.
I was not suggesting use of 20w-50 viscosity.Only that
Harley recommend that viscosity and have oil cooler
units on many models.
I did use Amsoil 20w-50 for my Rune for about 2 years.
because I couldn't get a 10w-40 amsoil.it worked really fine,
especially in summer.Which is why I ran with it.
I settled with Moble One 10w-40 the last 4 years on my Rune.
I just changed oil this past august and decided on the
Honda HP4 which is a synthetic/petroleum blend.It cost almost
$9 bucks a quart.The Moble One I drained never looked so clean.
because it had under 2,ooo miles use.
Reply
#28
(11-22-2013, 03:54 AM)CIP57_imp Wrote: Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.

i just change oil last weekend at 4.2K miles, the oil does look dirty with some sediments. I will change oil every 3 K miles.
Reply
#29
Sorry, but I don't understand why anyone would think that used oil would be anything else but dirty. Shy
Reply
#30
frequent oil changes, are the key, any good quality oil, 10-30 or 10-40 frequency is more important than brand of oil.
Reply


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