Oil Change 2700 miles

[CIP57_imp]

Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.

[_imp]

Changed my oil yesterday with 2700 miles. Last oil change was at 550. The oil was so dirty with sediment with only 2200 miles. I used a clear glass to collect some oil to inspect as i do with other bikes. Also, 1.1 qts stays in the system via the oil cooler primarily. They should have a drain on the oil cooler with a fill. I think I'll be changing my oil more frequently than suggested on this bike.

I was wondering about that Oil cooler.No mention at all about
any maintenance schedule for it.Plus no specs or how much
oil it circulates.I wonder how long it takes to capture oil and
how long to fully release it back to the engine.

[CIP57_imp]

Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.

[_imp]

Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.

I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.

[CIP57_imp]

Not a problem, it will eventually work its way through with continuous oil changes. I've changed over to full synthetic and she didn't blow up

[_imp]

Not a problem, it will eventually work its way through with continuous oil changes. I've changed over to full synthetic and she didn't blow up

But the whole point behind using a synthetic is better protection
and cuts in half the necessary oil changes.Meaning you get
double the coverage for also double/triple the price.
I noticed my old Honda dealer which is now just a Kasasaki
dealer had a bunch of Honda oil on their shelf.The little white
price stickers said $ 9.99. I said ... whoa thar Wilbur.I have
an emergency quart of Honda back home somewhere in my closet.
Yep,the same exact quart of Honda GN4 with the same little white
price sticker read $ 3.89. I got it about 4 years ago.

[AzBob_imp]

Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.

I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.

Why not? It will be just fine.

[_imp]

Capacity is 5.2
oil change is 4.1
I'm thinking a qt gets hung up in there.

I take it yer using the { after disassembly } spec.
Which means I have to find out how the oil is circulated.
In order for an Oil cooler to be effective it has to circulate the
engine oil.If about a quart remains in the oil cooler unit than
that really screws up using a synthetic.I just got thru buying
4 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 at the Honda dealer I bought the bike.
It's a newer Amsoil made especially for metrics and wet clutches.
I need this issue addressed.No way can I mix a full synthetic
10w-40 with the assembled 10w-30 petroleum.

Why not? It will be just fine.

Why not? It will be just fine.
I'm not an oil fanatic but I have a Harley buddy who is.
Yes,synthetic can /may be used with a petroleum.If not than those
Synthetic blends { Synthetic/Petroleum } like Honda's GP4
wouldn't make sense.But it isn't advisable to mix different
viscosity like a 10w-30 with a 10w-40.
I learned via the { Chris Harris } YouTube videos about proper
oil change.And that one should remove the oil filter First,then drain the oil.Wipe the inside of the oil filter housing with a clean rag or
paper towel to get rid of any sludge buildup.Plus ... and this is
really neat. use the OLD oil you drained to smear around the new
oil filter rubber seal.Because using new oil,especially synthetic,which is thin and slippery could cause the rubber seal to bond with the
crankcase.

[Deanohh_imp]

All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.

The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.

Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.

If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?

[_imp]

All the oil passes through the oil cooler all the time. Oil doesn't drain out of the oil cooler when drained from the engine and its not supposed to. If you had to wait after the oil change for the cooler to fill up with oil the engine would be starved for oil while the cooler was being refilled by the oil pump.

The oil cooler is a critical component in the cooling of the engine. Oil has to circulate freely to carry heat out of the engine and into the oil cooler and bring the cooled oil back to the engine. If you put a bunch of thick slow moving oil in the system then it is not going to circulate as good and not cool as good as a thinner oil. You fill it with a heavy 10w40 or 20w50 and it will be worse for its ability to help the engine run cooler. I'll stick with the 10w30.

Being thinner and slipperier ( if it is), a synthetic 10w30 would be even better for helping to cool the engine because of its better circulation to dissipate heat, and still have excellent lubrication.

If you mixed 5 qts of 10w40 with half a quart of 10w30, would you end up with 5.5 quarts of 10w38?

No argument that when an engine goes w/o oil,even if only
a few seconds,it can cause damage.So a complely empty oil cooler would deprive the engine whatever amount it takes to run.
meaning about a quart low.That is why maybe Honda should have
put a temp gauge for the oil cooler to show how it is cooling.
A thermostat at least.Which I'm sure is somewhere within the unit.
The entire reason Harley run on 20w-50 { thicker oil } is in
helping to cool the engine when it gets hot,like in the summer months.
I think you've got it ass backwards.10w-30 would be better for
cooler months and easier starting.because in cooler months a
bike doesn't require cooling as much as in the dead of summer.
I don't think lighter weight fluid { 10w-30 } flowing easier
translates into the oil cooler being more efficient for cooling.
Easier flowing oil would also be more suspectible to degradation
and evaporation due to heat transfer.Lighter weight oil would
heat faster ... got it.