Who has adjusted their chain?

[the Ferret]

Just an FYI, the spec for maximum play is 1.4" not 1 1/4".

At 2100 miles my chain is at 1.25" and I'm not planning on adjusting until it gets to 1.4". I've always run my chains at the loose end of the spec and found that they don't wear as fast that way.

Hey Randy, I'm with you. I just use my finger to check the slack. When it looks like it's getting close, I pull out the tape measure.

Check the decal on your swingarm

[ron1100_imp]

I've never seen that tool before. I really couldn't say. If you use it to measure the free play of the chain it doesn't have any calibration marks. Maybe you use it to set the depth of the chain adjusters equal.

I have no clue otherwise. Sorry.

It's basically a Chain Alignment Tool

Quick and accurate alignment
Tool body clamps squarely to rear sprocket so the alignment rod will indicate sprocket alignment to chain

[flynrider]

Just an FYI, the spec for maximum play is 1.4" not 1 1/4".

At 2100 miles my chain is at 1.25" and I'm not planning on adjusting until it gets to 1.4". I've always run my chains at the loose end of the spec and found that they don't wear as fast that way.

Hey Randy, I'm with you. I just use my finger to check the slack. When it looks like it's getting close, I pull out the tape measure.

Check the decal on your swingarm

Yep. It says keep chain adjusted to 1 1/4" (30mm). That is the midpoint of the range. It also says to see the operating manual. That lists the range as 1.0" to 1.4" (25mm - 35mm).

[meowguy_imp]

Quote:It's basically a Chain Alignment Tool

Quick and accurate alignment
Tool body clamps squarely to rear sprocket so the alignment rod will indicate sprocket alignment to chain
Looks like it would do the trick. You would probably set the tension with the port side (left) adjuster, then square the sprocket with the starboard (right) side adjuster. Seems it would be quick, easy, and accurate. Not knowing of it's existence I just used what I had on hand.

[Deanohh_imp]

If you move one side and set chain, the slack will change again when you move the other side. After you know the rear is aligned once, it can't un-align if you always turn each adjuster the same number of flats when adjusting.

[ron1100_imp]

I don't see how that's possible (to keep them both at the same flats) especially when the wheel has been removed? Please educate me.

[Deanohh_imp]

I don't see how that's possible (to keep them both at the same flats) especially when the wheel has been removed? Please educate me.

you remove the wheel by pulling the axle out....drop wheel down....roll wheel forward.....take chain off sprocket.....remove wheel without letting brake caliper fall down. Don't move the adjusters at all. If you take the adjusters off for some reason, then you have to square things up again....once. Then when adjusting after that, turn each screw the same number of flats.... Most adjustments need less than one full turn. The thread pitch is very precise and alignment will stay if you do the same thing to each side.

and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack.

[ron1100_imp]

Ahhhh, I get it now. Thanks for elaborating. Much appreciated.

I don't see how that's possible (to keep them both at the same flats) especially when the wheel has been removed? Please educate me.

you remove the wheel by pulling the axle out....drop wheel down....roll wheel forward.....take chain off sprocket.....remove wheel without letting brake caliper fall down. Don't move the adjusters at all. If you take the adjusters off for some reason, then you have to square things up again....once. Then when adjusting after that, turn each screw the same number of flats.... Most adjustments need less than one full turn. The thread pitch is very precise and alignment will stay if you do the same thing to each side.

and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack.

you remove the wheel by pulling the axle out....drop wheel down....roll wheel forward.....take chain off sprocket.....remove wheel without letting brake caliper fall down. Don't move the adjusters at all. If you take the adjusters off for some reason, then you have to square things up again....once. Then when adjusting after that, turn each screw the same number of flats.... Most adjustments need less than one full turn. The thread pitch is very precise and alignment will stay if you do the same thing to each side.

and before you tighten the axle after adjusting, jam a rag between chain and rear sprocket and turn the wheel to roll the rag in there tight so that the chain pulls both ends of the axle tight against the stops and you take any slop out of the axle adjustment parts and then tighten axle, remove rag and verify chain slack. I'm really enjoying both of those twins. The NC700XD (with the dual clutch transmission) is a joy in heavy traffic and makes for a great commuter. The CBR500R is much sportier and spiffy bike and has plenty of power (for me and I'm light - 135 lbs) for spirited riding and the seating position is great. BTW, I had a 2011 CBR600RR that I loved but the clipons killed my back, shoulders and wrists. Also had way too much just for the road.
My CB is definitely a keeper though. Now if only I could just stop thinking about the new 2014 Yamaha FJR1300ES

Hey how do you like those new Honda twins?
[/quote]

[CB750TOM_imp]

Mine came with slack in the chain >1.5 inches. I noticed it immediately when I inspected the adjustment marks and found that one side was below three hash marks and the other was above three marks. Loosened the axle, adjusted the long side, approx. 3/4 turns, lined them up with a micrometer got a hair more than 1 inch slack. Tightened up to torque and put 100 miles on it. It came from the factory this way, so I adjusted at 30 miles.

BTW, I used a six inch extension on my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench and this gave me the clearance I needed around the exhaust.

This is why I do my own maintenance--learned this years ago with my Harleys. I do not trust the shop to do this stuff. It should have never been delivered with slack or out of alignment. This bike is easy to work on. I am ordering the shop manual and I'm on my way.

[davidsargee_imp]

Recently tightened mine at almost 1100 miles. Tightened to slightly more than 1" slack. Now my transmission is real "clunky". Is this perhaps a sign that I went too tight?