How to adjust chain?

[808_rider_imp]

This weekend I am planning to do the initial 600 mile service on my 2014 CB1100. Ferret’s How-To thread on this 600 mile service is a big help but I have a question on chain adjustment. If my chain needs adjusting, do I need to loosen both left and right axle nuts and then turn the each adjustment bolts equally? This sound the most logical but I have also read that all I need to do is just loosen the right axle nut (27 mm) and just turn the right adjustment bolt.

This may sound like a stupid question but I have never adjusted the chain on a motorcycle (my only other motorcycle was shaft drive) so I just want to ensure that I do it correctly.

[Randy B]

There is only one axle nut and the axle shaft itself. Loosen the nut and then you can adjust the adjusters and make sure to turn them and equal amount.

[Todd_K_imp]

Loosen the nut; you'll likely need to secure the bolt head too at some point when either loosening or tightening. Once loosened, turn both adjustment bolts the same amount either counterclockwise to remove slack or clockwise to increase slack.

Confirm chain slack is where you want it and re tighten the axle nut.

Just did it this evening to take a smidge of bonus slack out

[808_rider_imp]

Thanks for the replies. I was wrong and in re-reading the manual the axel nut is on the right. The hex head on the left is not a nut (it is the bolt head). So, it now makes more sense.

My initial thoughts of two axel nuts was based on my experience on working with bicycles where you would have two axle nuts. Again, thanks for the clarification.

[redbirds_imp]

If you have a torque wrench, it's a good idea to tighten down the axle nut to spec. Pay close attention to the alignment marks on the swing arm and keep in mind that a very small turn of the adjusters makes quite a difference in chain tension.

[808_rider_imp]

The information from above gave me the confidence to adjust my chain slack and with Ferret's detailed instructions, I performed the 600 mile initial service this past weekend. Everything went fairly smoothly and I did not have to adjust the chain slack as it was within spec (I measured 25mm). However I did have a difficult time accessing the measurement point (mid point of the chain between the engine and rear sprocket) as the muffler was in the way. Ultimately, I was able to get a ruler in there and take a measurement. However, is the following the correct method to take the measurement?

1. From the chain's mid point, I take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the chain. This measurement is taken without any downward force to the chain as I just let gravity determine this measurement.

2. I then pushed the chain upwards using my index finger while I am laying next to my CB. In doint this, I applied quite a bit of force. I then measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chain.

The difference between the two measurements is the chain slack (which in my case measured 25 mm.) My concern is how I measured the two points. In measuring point 1, is just using gravity correct. And in measuring point 2, is it correct to apply some force or do I just want to apply enough force so that the chain is taut?

[Deanohh_imp]

Because of gravity, the top run will also have slack which you should pull down enough to start with so all the slack is on the bottom. Same thing when you push up.....only need enough force so that slack is gone from the top run. Most consider what you did as close enough, but you're a little looser than you think you are, but that's not really a bad thing because I think the midpoint of the range is ideal. Others may not agree.

[808_rider_imp]

Deanohh, thanks for the reply and the next time I check my chain I will pull down (and not just rely on gravity) for my first measuring point of the chain. Using your method, my 25mm of slack that I had previously measured is probably more like 30mm so I think I am still within spec.