Engine Sound Changed After Service

[Inhouse Bob]

Unless Django has dropped his account, you could still reach him with a PM or even an email, so maybe we haven't entirely lost him to his new love.

[Django]

popgun, I'm sorry. I don't have more details as I already have written so far.

I hope, your dealership does get help from the Honda support. It should be a known problem there.

[Lord Popgun]

Thanks Django.

I hope EarsOnWheels gets it straightened out. And if mine starts after service I will know where to look!

[Gumby 1100_imp]

I hope Django checks back in here after tearing up the Autobahn on his new ride!

Looking at the parts diagram above, and at the service manual, the reed valve assembly is not complicated. The cover, the reed valve, and the port plate. I can't tell if it is possible to install the port plate backwards. Maybe a possibility? There is a good pic of it in the service manual, but hard to tell. Django, any ideas?

From what I remember about my VTX1800, it may have been possible to install the REED valve membranes upside down (The PAIR system on many Hondas is very similar). In that case it would be venting during the exhaust cycle through the PAIR Valve Plumbing.

To verify if this is the case, I would disconnect the PAIR Valve hoses from intake ports 3 and 4 as shown in Django's posted illustration and briefly fire up the engine. In theory, you should then see/feel exhaust leaving through these ports if the membranes are upside down/backwards. At least with the hoses off, you might be able to hear if that is the source of the clicking. Then, it would be a simple matter to correct or adjust the membranes and you shouldn't have to remove the valve cover to do this.

Actually, there should be no reason to disassemble the REED valves at all when doing a valve inspection/adjustment (at least no reason that I am aware of). For that reason alone, I am starting to doubt that the REED valves may be the source of your noise, but hey, you never know!

[EarsOnWheels_imp]

Thank you. The sound is bugging me. Dealer had promised to check with Honda Support and update me.

Any additional insight is appreciated.

Sent from my XT1019 using Tapatalk

[CIP57_imp]

Thank you. The sound is bugging me. Dealer had promised to check with Honda Support and update me.

Any additional insight is appreciated.

Sent from my XT1019 using Tapatalk

Where is the sound coming from lower end or on top. What does it sound like and can you post a video. If its coming from the lower right near the crankcase its the oil blend they used. This would not by an electrical sound, more of a knock or rattle in the lower end which increases with rpm's. All Honda dealers use 10-40 its the most common oil to use in bulk. There not going to go out to the shelf for 10-30 which by the way most do not even carry in dino. You have to use full synthic to get that grade in the dealership. Without hearing it its hard to diagnosis the problem.

Edit:
Listen to the second video in this thread, does it sound like this ???

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=2479

[Toddman_imp]

My engine didn't sound as smooth after the first oil change. I'll report back as the spring change is coming up and I will use a better oil after the break in. Maybe with a premium oil in, it will sound a little better. I don't worry about issues like this but I did think it a bit strange.

[PowerDubs_imp]

What ever happened with this?

[EarsOnWheels_imp]

Dealer couldn't figure it out. (ugh) After the *next service*, it sounded a little less loud. I got a little bit used to it, kinda, but it still sucked to buy something new and then have something go awry, especially something you were fond of.

BOTTOM LINE: bike never went back to sounding like it did in the first 8,000 miles, but it didn't seem to affect performance.

I've since upgraded to a DLX (from Motogeezer), and the engine sounds normal to me.

[PowerDubs_imp]

Thanks for the update.

I'd bet they rushed and did *something* wrong...

I took my valve cover off and swapped it for one I stripped and clear-coated- with no change on sound, but I also take my time to make sure everything is 100% correct and tq wrench used, etc...