(06-21-2019, 10:52 PM)Cqrlm911_imp Wrote: Speaking of the sw motech bars, the instructions suck. I had to go back through old posts on here to find the torque specs for the 2 stock engine mount bolts on down tubes being reused for the bars(36 ft/lbs). The supplied swm bolts(one on each side) are torqued at 28 ft lbs. I think/ hope I did it correctly.

(06-21-2019, 12:38 AM)Bazbro_imp Wrote: Well-spotted, Max.
I think these CB engine mounts are disgraceful for thesereasons...
1. They are placed too far to the outer edges of the crankcase where they are very vulnerable to being struck
2. They are grossly insubstantial. If I recall, my '72 CB750 mounts were bigger affairs that went right across the engine from one side to the other, with one big long bolt securing the two sides.
3. This is from a world-leading manufacturer, so you wouldn't expect these sort of errors.

As a result of 2017EX, Houtman and other's observations on crashbars (my preferred protection) I have switched my intentions to buy from Hepco&Becker to the SWMotech offering - very similar bars but with two main differences - an additional metal strip between engine mount and bar mount on SWM, that allows a little flexibility in an accident and reduces "shock", and a different attitude to the mounting bolt - rigid and inflexible on H&B or "sacrificial" in nature on SWM.

Here are my own broken engine mount pics:

(06-21-2019, 06:08 PM)Bazbro_imp Wrote:

(06-21-2019, 10:43 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: Can you weld that broken mount ?

Yes, I could, John.
The best course would be to...
1. Take the engine out of the frame and replace the lower engine block. Or
2. Next would be an engine-out, strip-down alloy-weld repair. Or
3. Then an in situ alloy-weld repair, and finally
4. A JBWeld repair.
Removing the engine is out of the question - it would ALL have to be done at a dealer and the cost would be prohibitive! It ain't gonna happen, 'cos I can't do it myself.
I spoke to my welder (who coincidentally owns an old Honda Four!) and whilst he was prepared to look at the job and maybe have a go, he was unsure about doing it in situ because of the heat generated by the weld
. At that time I was going to take the 'bike for him to have a look, on my way bringing the 'bike home. My 'trailer plan' failed when the hitch broke so the 'bike was brought straight home here and the welder hasn't looked at it yet.
I decided to at least TRY the JBWeld - I'll be keeping a VERY close eye on it. If the product is as good as the reports, it'll be fine. If it's not, I will have to deal with it then.
The crack itself is UNDER the weight-supporting part of the bracket. It is totally supported on either side by big penny washers, clamped and torqued up, then clamped to the frame. The weight is downwards, onto the unbroken part and I can only see it breaking again if it gets an upward whack like last time. Of course, it may fail through vibration, heat, whatever but all reports suggest that will not be the case. No weight is being taken by the weld - just holding the loose underneath part UP onto the solid top part.
It is what it is and although not ideal, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. (And toes, and arms, and eyes!).

(06-22-2019, 10:59 AM)Dover_MA_imp Wrote:

(06-21-2019, 06:08 PM)Bazbro_imp Wrote:

(06-21-2019, 10:43 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: Can you weld that broken mount ?

Yes, I could, John.
The best course would be to...
1. Take the engine out of the frame and replace the lower engine block. Or
2. Next would be an engine-out, strip-down alloy-weld repair. Or
3. Then an in situ alloy-weld repair, and finally
4. A JBWeld repair.
Removing the engine is out of the question - it would ALL have to be done at a dealer and the cost would be prohibitive! It ain't gonna happen, 'cos I can't do it myself.
I spoke to my welder (who coincidentally owns an old Honda Four!) and whilst he was prepared to look at the job and maybe have a go, he was unsure about doing it in situ because of the heat generated by the weld
. At that time I was going to take the 'bike for him to have a look, on my way bringing the 'bike home. My 'trailer plan' failed when the hitch broke so the 'bike was brought straight home here and the welder hasn't looked at it yet.
I decided to at least TRY the JBWeld - I'll be keeping a VERY close eye on it. If the product is as good as the reports, it'll be fine. If it's not, I will have to deal with it then.
The crack itself is UNDER the weight-supporting part of the bracket. It is totally supported on either side by big penny washers, clamped and torqued up, then clamped to the frame. The weight is downwards, onto the unbroken part and I can only see it breaking again if it gets an upward whack like last time. Of course, it may fail through vibration, heat, whatever but all reports suggest that will not be the case. No weight is being taken by the weld - just holding the loose underneath part UP onto the solid top part.
It is what it is and although not ideal, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. (And toes, and arms, and eyes!).

Please don't think I'm a naysayer, but isn't engine torque going to pull the front of the motor up?

(06-02-2019, 08:20 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: There are many different ones but I like the ones from Over from Japan.

(06-23-2019, 04:40 PM)Lambchops_imp Wrote:

(06-02-2019, 08:20 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: There are many different ones but I like the ones from Over from Japan.

I have the OVER RACING ones too. I really like how they mount directly to the frame instead of the engine and have 3 points/bars. Also, they don't touch the road like the Kijima ones in the twisties... Haven't had a chance to crash them to say if they're up to it.

I don't think any of these crash bars are meant to hold up in a high speed crash anyway.