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+--- Thread: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding (/showthread.php?tid=4939)
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - SportsterDoc - 06-25-2019
(06-25-2019, 01:48 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote:(06-25-2019, 12:31 AM)grm24_imp Wrote: Took a look at the battery yesterday and it didn’t have a date on it, but it does look like the original battery. Looked at the cables and they seem fine. Going to try swapping in a new battery from another bike and seeing if that does it. I’ve ran sea foam through it once but plan on doing it another time. Will also try ethanol free gas.I certainly wouldn't worry about the fuel metering at this point. If the starter relay is chattering, it's a low voltage problem.
It currently has a delkevic slip on, would that cause issues? I assume it would lean it out but not sure how the fuel map on these work to compensate for it.
Yep, post 3, questions 1-3
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - grm24_imp - 06-25-2019
(06-25-2019, 01:59 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote:(06-25-2019, 01:48 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote:(06-25-2019, 12:31 AM)grm24_imp Wrote: Took a look at the battery yesterday and it didn’t have a date on it, but it does look like the original battery. Looked at the cables and they seem fine. Going to try swapping in a new battery from another bike and seeing if that does it. I’ve ran sea foam through it once but plan on doing it another time. Will also try ethanol free gas.I certainly wouldn't worry about the fuel metering at this point. If the starter relay is chattering, it's a low voltage problem.
It currently has a delkevic slip on, would that cause issues? I assume it would lean it out but not sure how the fuel map on these work to compensate for it.
Yep, post 3, questions 1-3
Yep, post 3, questions 1-3
Going to pick up a new multimeter and get check on this. Cables seem fine.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - Jfro5687_imp - 06-26-2019
I know its not the same but a couple of years ago my otherwise 100% reliable petrol car (that i had put 80k miles on BTW) started running roughly all of a sudden. Then it stalled and wouldn't start, wouldn't even turn over? Thankfully i was near home. After much head scratching i went with a friend and bought a new decent quality battery. Fitted it and touched nothing else. Fired up straight away and was perfect.
Battery was the original, about 6 years old i guess. Seems when they die, they die.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - SportsterDoc - 06-26-2019
In the desert, battery life in a car or truck is usually only about 2 years.
Although there are exceptions, anything over 4 years on a M/C is doing very well.
However, I hesitate declaring a battery is needed without some basic checks.
Not that replacing a battery over 4 years old is not a reasonable investment, but good to check for no corrosion under the negative cable to motor/frame, even if it appears secure, etc.
We will probably learn that the battery is well under 12.6 volts, key off and drops below 10.5 when trying to start (bad cell).
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - Houtman_imp - 06-26-2019
Just get a new batterie , keep it simple as sooner or later it will be gone and you could be stranded and spend more than a new batterie. 4 years max and less in a very hot climate.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - grm24_imp - 07-05-2019
(06-26-2019, 08:05 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: In the desert, battery life in a car or truck is usually only about 2 years.
Although there are exceptions, anything over 4 years on a M/C is doing very well.
However, I hesitate declaring a battery is needed without some basic checks.
Not that replacing a battery over 4 years old is not a reasonable investment, but good to check for no corrosion under the negative cable to motor/frame, even if it appears secure, etc.
We will probably learn that the battery is well under 12.6 volts, key off and drops below 10.5 when trying to start (bad cell).
Didn’t check the voltage, just said screw it and got a new battery but it didn’t fix the issue. While riding today, issue started up again after riding for about 15-20 minutes. No issue of stalling just didn’t want to rev past 6k and if I down shift to where it was past 6k, it just hesitated and doesn’t accelerate anymore. Next step is pulling off the tank and investigating everything.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - max - 07-05-2019
There are two temperature sensors on the engine;
1 ; engine oil temperature sensor ( sets a code and flashes orange cel when disconnected )
2 ; intake air tempreature sensor ( maybe sets a code and flashes orange cel when disconnected ).
We have not had an identical fault on this forum so i am a bit lost with this one, each one of those sensors can be disconnected individually and the engine may then run in a " limp home" mode that could well limit the engine to 6000 rpm.
This will be a very defined point on the rev couter and point to this particular mode.
The eot sensor is mounted on the oil channel on the back of the cylinders and has delicate contacts inside it, be careful not to mis-align these when plugging the connector back in. see pic.
The ait sensor is located opposite the air filter intake cover on the right hand side of the bike;
You could run the bike to operating temperature and disconnect one sensor at a time, if you disconnect one sensor and there is no difference in operation that may be the cause of the fault.
Just thinking that one sensor operates but is out of range or disconnected somehow for the ecm and puts it in limp mode.
Just thought it may be worth a try before removing the fuel tank ( bit involved ) and finding nothing wrong.
The fact that you stated the bike runs fine when cold makes me think all is functioning fine until the ecm gets the wrong information and limits the engine to a safe level.
Is this situation happening every time or just sometimes?
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - Cormanus - 07-05-2019
6K RPM seems high for limp home mode.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - max - 07-05-2019
Cormanus you made me think, remember Dave had his breather tube blocked?
Could be the case here, to test this idea maybe go for a ride, wait until it slows down and open the fuel cap, if the air rushes in we have more things to consider.
This bike could also have the evap system that we don't have, who knows..........
Anyway here's a link that finds the article buried deep deep into that thread; http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8120&pid=206115#pid206115
Another hint; this suction effect would show up sooner with a full tank of fuel and less so with a low fuel level in the tank.
RE: Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding - pekingduck - 07-05-2019
I hope the new battery got rid of the cranking problem at least. There may be more than one problem, as it now isn't dying out.
When a bike is cold, it is given a slightly richer mixture until the engine warms up. A faulty temp sensor, one that is giving an inaccurate reading, will not give an FI code. Codes only appear when either sensor is unplugged, not if the sensor gives a wrong reading. Then the ECM falls back on a default value that would cause it to run safely, but not optimally. It would not allow it to die out or sputter, or to do something inconsistently. Sensors rarely fail.
If you pull the tank off, there is always the possibility that mice or other creatures may have chewed some wires and you're getting intermittent signal. Also check the air filter for blockage, like a possible nest. If you pull the plugs out, be very careful as they are small diameter threads, and could break easily if forced. They are also expensive, but you are very unlikely to need to replace them.
Check the fuel tank vent line for pinching or blockage - unplug it at the tank and blow into the line into the evaporative cannister under the bike. If that line were pinched/blocked, it could cause the fuel pump to deliver lower pressure. There is a fuel pump flow test that the manual outlines.
These things, plus what Max had said in post #17 won't cost anything. Let us know what you find.