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 Doesn’t rev past 6000rpm, dies when riding
#1
Hey all,

Recently picked up a 2013 standard with 1300 miles. Bike is in excellent condition aesthetically, and seemed like it was perfect mechanically as well. Previous owner did all the maintenance and fluids and always kept in garage on a tender. Test rode a short distance and it is was fine.
After riding for about an hour, the bike seemed to start hesitating. When I pulled out of the highway it died at the light, didn’t really want to start back up but did, and kept dying as I would stop. Put fresh gas and injector cleaner but hasn’t made a difference.

The other day I went to ride again and it won’t rev past 6k after it’s warmed up. When cold, it’ll pull hard to redline, and doesn’t have any issues, but after warm, it wants to die and hesitates/sluggish. I was on the highway and downshift to pass, and it seemed like it just cut off/died and I started to pull off the highway but popped the clutch to see if it would bump start and then it picked back up and I was able to keep going.

Other day it died when I pulled off the highway and wouldn’t start, kept clicking like the battery was dead. I think the battery is okay since I don’t render it and it starts without issues when cold, even after a week or two with no riding.


No idea what’s going on or what to look for as I’ve usually worked on carbureted engines.

Anyone have this issue before?
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#2
My 2014 did this exact thing once about two years ago, but not since then. I assumed it was bad gas, so I tanked up from a different station and the problem has never returned. Is it fixed? I have no idea.
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#3
(06-24-2019, 01:59 AM)LongRanger_imp Wrote: My 2014 did this exact thing once about two years ago, but not since then. I assumed it was bad gas, so I tanked up from a different station and the problem has never returned. Is it fixed? I have no idea.

1. What is battery voltage at idle?

2. What is battery voltage at ~3,000 RPMs?

3. What is condition of both ends of both battery cables?

4. Re LongRanger's suggestion, how fresh is the fuel?

5. What is condition of spark plugs and cables?
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#4
Ditto Sportsterdoc.

Check the battery and battery connections first. You have running issues AND cranking issues. Unless it was changed, that battery is 6 years old already, and likely due for retirement.
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#5
(06-24-2019, 02:08 AM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote:
(06-24-2019, 01:59 AM)LongRanger_imp Wrote: My 2014 did this exact thing once about two years ago, but not since then. I assumed it was bad gas, so I tanked up from a different station and the problem has never returned. Is it fixed? I have no idea.

1. What is battery voltage at idle?

2. What is battery voltage at ~3,000 RPMs?

3. What is condition of both ends of both battery cables?

4. Re LongRanger's suggestion, how fresh is the fuel?

5. What is condition of spark plugs and cables?

1. What is battery voltage at idle?

2. What is battery voltage at ~3,000 RPMs?

3. What is condition of both ends of both battery cables?

4. Re LongRanger's suggestion, how fresh is the fuel?

5. What is condition of spark plugs and cables?
I’ll have to get a new multimeter as mine is busted. But the battery cables look fine, no corrosion. I’ll have to pull the plugs and inspect them as well. Haven’t actually gotten into it yet, wanted to hopefully get a direction of where to start.
(06-24-2019, 02:28 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: Ditto Sportsterdoc.

Check the battery and battery connections first. You have running issues AND cranking issues. Unless it was changed, that battery is 6 years old already, and likely due for retirement.

I’ll report back with the battery date.
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#6
Last year, the battery on my 2013 failed 100 miles from home with no prior warning. Starter relay would only chatter when trying to start, but it bump started and got me home without incident. Battery is always on a maintenance charger, and when I got home, voltage was 13.1, but dropped to 12.7 after an hour, so it got replaced.

In your case, you had problems taking off from a stop, where battery voltage may be lowest as it had been idling and the brake light was drawing power.

Battery Tender makes a nice digital voltmeter for about $15. It plugs into the charger cord for a really quick check, but it won't indicate with the engine revving. I now carry it in my Darien jacket (along with a pocket Li-ion jumper battery and cables).

.
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#7
If not the battery, then check cabling for breakage and connectors. Sometimes heat and/or vibration can agitate an otherwise marginal electrical connection or subtle short to ground.

Think ignition and associated electrical, kill switch, fuel-related sensors, etc.
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#8
I think the battery is toast, get a new one. Also I would put in about 3.5 ounces of sea foam and run it thru at least one tank maybe two , also find some ethanol free gas and try that.
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#9
Took a look at the battery yesterday and it didn’t have a date on it, but it does look like the original battery. Looked at the cables and they seem fine. Going to try swapping in a new battery from another bike and seeing if that does it. I’ve ran sea foam through it once but plan on doing it another time. Will also try ethanol free gas.

It currently has a delkevic slip on, would that cause issues? I assume it would lean it out but not sure how the fuel map on these work to compensate for it.
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#10
(06-25-2019, 12:31 AM)grm24_imp Wrote: Took a look at the battery yesterday and it didn’t have a date on it, but it does look like the original battery. Looked at the cables and they seem fine. Going to try swapping in a new battery from another bike and seeing if that does it. I’ve ran sea foam through it once but plan on doing it another time. Will also try ethanol free gas.

It currently has a delkevic slip on, would that cause issues? I assume it would lean it out but not sure how the fuel map on these work to compensate for it.
I certainly wouldn't worry about the fuel metering at this point. If the starter relay is chattering, it's a low voltage problem.
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