The CB1100 Community Forum

Hey all.

First time poster, secret stalker.

Recently my speedometer was malfunctioning due to a bike wash using water jets. The meter was completely busted. No speedo, no RPM, no odo. Only fuel. The needle doesn't run when I turn the bike on.

Decided to pamper the girl a bit by getting myself an Acewell 4553s from Dime City. The guy mentioned that it could fit the bike no problem.

However, I have had issues with the speedometer as it is inaccurate (they used a magnet system just like you would see on a bicycle) and my fuel gauge doesn't go up down. According to the charts, there is a resistance number that you would have to indicate (100, 250, 510, -100, -250 -510) and that is a bit technical for me. The RPM default is set at 2000RPM but it sounds like 1000RPM on default.

Currently going by mileage using an app on my phone which uses the GPS. Pretty accurate.

Could you guys give me some tips?

Here's a pic of the current setup. (Let me know if you can't see it)

I get a broken image icon in your post, but if I click on , it I can see the pic, and if I click on the box in the upper rh corner it goes full screen on my pc

We have some smart guys here with electronics, lets see if they can't get you fixed up. They will probably talk above your head though. Electrical wizards are like that lol

If your bike is a '14 or later, there is a serial data bus that is going to come into play. If your new meter doesn't play with that you are going to have more problems. Speed data is sent from the speedometer to the ECU on this buss. Data actually flows both ways as it is a bi-directional serial data bus.

I can't see your pic at work and don't have my service manual here so will have to wait til later to help. Hopefully Max and Peterbaron or Powerdubs will jump in but I'm not sure I'd want to kludge it up. Honestly, I think replacing it with OEM is a much better idea. Especially if you have ABS.

From what you describe none of the functions are accurate but speedo and rev counter are functioning.
If it was me i would have tried to repair the original cluster or have some technical person look at it, it sounds like the processor has stopped due to water, the processor makes the dials swing.

Is the connector to the cluster still attached so the original or new unit can be re-connected?

Looking at the pdf there are several settings that have to be adjusted in the setup menu, i would start with the rev counter ;

From the pdf on page one;
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mode
Clock, RPM, Wheel, Unit, Divider, Thermometer, fuel meter and ODO SETUP

5. It displays "RPM SPC-X.X", the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options:
1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal.
For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a
signal. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the engine
specifications setting and jump to wheel circumference setting screen.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just play around with the four options in the menu and one of them should work.

this is the simplest one to do because you know that the rev's are 1500 rpm on startup, 1150 rpm when the engine is at operating temperature and you can adjust it whilst the bike is stationary.

Once this setting has it's correct option the rest may be better understood.

I forgot to indicate that I'm riding the 2013 abs model. Got my previous meter looked at and they told me that the casing on the inside broke. I got mine second hand after all. I got the bike at a fairly good condition. The meter casing was covered with slightly covered with duct tape. They couldn't fix it.

I'll play around with it tomorrow. Time difference and all that jazz. I'll give 2 a shot.

This is what it looks like now.

Don't ask what's on the left of it. It's for tolls and stuff.

OK, you do not have a serial data bus. Me either for that matter.

Listen to Max. He is smart!

Just for some info. Your OEM front and rear speed sensors are connected to the ABS modulator. The tach is driven by the bike’s main ECU.

If your new unit does not give rear wheel speed to the ABS modulator, the ABS ECU will set a fault and the ABS light will blink and the ABS will be inoperative. So be ready for that if you see it.

(05-22-2019, 03:57 AM)max_imp Wrote: [ -> ]From what you describe none of the functions are accurate but speedo and rev counter are functioning.
If it was me i would have tried to repair the original cluster or have some technical person look at it, it sounds like the processor has stopped due to water, the processor makes the dials swing.

Is the connector to the cluster still attached so the original or new unit can be re-connected?

Looking at the pdf there are several settings that have to be adjusted in the setup menu, i would start with the rev counter ;

From the pdf on page one;
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mode
Clock, RPM, Wheel, Unit, Divider, Thermometer, fuel meter and ODO SETUP

5. It displays "RPM SPC-X.X", the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options:
1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal.
For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a
signal. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the engine
specifications setting and jump to wheel circumference setting screen.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just play around with the four options in the menu and one of them should work.

this is the simplest one to do because you know that the rev's are 1500 rpm on startup, 1150 rpm when the engine is at operating temperature and you can adjust it whilst the bike is stationary.

Once this setting has it's correct option the rest may be better understood.

I managed to get the RPM sorted. The SPC settings is to be set at 0.5 instead of 1. Now if only we could do something about the fuel resistance and the speedometer..

Well that's good news Mohamad, we'll do one thing at a time so no-one gets confused.

The same thing now needs to be set in the same menu to adjust the fuel gauge so it indicates the correct amount.
We start by assuming that the tank is neither full or empty so we should expect a reading somewhere halfway.

The meter is useable for many types of motorcycles according to the manufacturer, it has therefore 7 different settings to adapt to the ohms resistance of the fuel sensor in the tank, this sensor is somewhat similar to a volume control on an amplifier or radio exept there is a float mounted on the shaft instead of a knob, it is a variable resistor ( r is the symbol for resistance and relates to how electrically big the sensor is ) and changes it's value depending on the height of the fuel in the tank which is what the meter interprets as an amount of fuel in the tank.

So in a similar way the fuel meter has to adapt itself to the value of the fuel level sensor in the tank, since different values can be used you have to tell the meter which one adapts best.

This is done in the same mode settings under number 11;

"11. It displays “100r” and fuel tank symbol, follow the item 2 to select 100,
250, 510ohm, oFF, -100, -250 or -510Ohm and jump to sensor type of
LAP timer setting. The fuel meter bar will disappear if you select oFF
mode"

Notice there are 7 different settings in this part starting with 100, off and --100 etc. notice that the last three settings are negative, i have no idea why but be aware of this, they are not the same as the first three.
Your part is to select the setting that gives the best useable result out of these 7 values, it's just a matter of finding the best setting by trial and error, if you have a sensor with a resistance of --250 ohms you have to select --250r.
Also the fuel meter could be set to off in which case nothing will be displayed on the meter which could be the case in your meter.

The relevant wire to use for the fuel gauge is "gray/black", just in case you used a different one.

This setting could take some time to get indicating correctly depending how often you fuel up but something should start indicating when the settings are changed.

If you decide to siphon some fuel out of the tank it is worth noting that the float for the fuel sensor is in the left side of the fuel tank and should be avoided to touch since it can be damaged easy and is difficult to replace.

Here is how your pdf manual describes what i just explained;

"FUEL GAUGE"
1. Has 7 bars to indicate how much fuel remains.
2. Built-in 100, 250, 510Ohm, oFF, -100, -250 and -510 Ohm fuel sender
resistance, the fuel bars will disappear when you select “oFF” mode.
3. The full bars are low resistance and empty bar is high resistance for
100, 250 and 510ohm; -100, -250 and -510 ohm are the inverse.


2. User has to train the gear indicator before use it.
Fuel Bar & Resistor Value
Bars 100r 250r 510r -100 -250 -510
7 0-10 0-25 0-50 100-90 250-230 510-460
6 11-20 26-50 51-100 89-75 229-200 459-380
5 21-35 51-85 101-180 74-60 199-150 379-300
4 36-45 86-110 181-230 59-45 149-110 299-230
3 46-60 111-150 231-300 44-35 109-85 229-180
2 61-75 151-200 301-380 34-20 84-50 179-100
1 76-90 201-230 381-460 19-10 49-25 99-50
0-Flash 91-100 231-250 461-510 9-0 24-0 49-0


See which one you like best, that should keep you busy for a bit and let us know how it went when you have finished this part, i tried to be as clear and complete as i could and it takes a bit of time to explain this stuff, cheers